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Pinion depth looks a touch too deep but you have an pretty even pattern on the power and coast side of the ring teeth. Should be fine. You could shim the carrier over to loosen the backlash slightly.

I’d just put that tj front axle for sale. It’s a low pinion axle and the MJ has a better front axle. You could swap over the axles shafts though from the TJ to the MJ.

That’s it

Only issues I’ve come across with LED’s is the flasher modules which can just be swapped to an led flasher. You can also get an led resistor to simulate the load of an incandescent bulb if needed. I prefer the original look of traditional bulbs but I did add led bulbs to the backup lights.

That’s a nice linkage setup. Been running that for a few months now and it’s a much better shift feel and response. You’ll just need to get the actual floor shifter now. eBay if you can’t grab one at the local yard.

That’s fit looks nice. How is the vertical height of the seat base compared to stock?

Just noticed that the OP never received a response. In general, XJ seat floor brackets are slightly different to MJ brackets because there is an extra floor brace that is not present on an XJ floor pan. This brace raises one of the mounting points for the MJ seats be they bench or bucket. The center console from a 97+ XJ will fit but requires a different rear mounting bracket. It is a nice design and has more functional cup holders and is more durable overall. Note that a 97+ XJ console will leave about a 2-3” gap where it meets the older style dash. @Dzimm I believe is working on some sort of filler plate for that. The door panel I couldn’t tell you for sure but it’s worth noting that there is slight interference with the 97+ xj door panels and the 96- glove box and dash area. It fits but a whole 97+ interior swap looks much cleaner than just doing the door panels.

Checkout my post and @jdog’s.

Azzy Design works make new gauge faces. I can’t ever get them to respond to me for anything custom though. Their stock stuff is ok but custom would be nice

There are two compressing tabs one top and one bottom. Remove the dash bezel and then the switch base. You can press on the tabs and pop it out the front. You may be able to pop it out the front without removing the panels but it’s also quite possible you will brake or damage something in the process.

Yep that’s right

I suppose you could if you could grab an earlier model blue tach and the police Speedo.

I ordered my rear addco bar a few months ago. They still make them new

Yeah I like that clean factory optioned look. I’d use the boostwerks hidden winch setup though with the steering pillow bushing. I can fab that roll bar up easy enough if I don’t find a good used one. I got some oem fog lights already and will keep a keen eye out for a brush guard. I have a set of tow hooks also with brackets.

The 99 console will fit but will have a gap where the old console would meet the dash. I use the newer style console and I think it’s a far better design but you either have to live with the gap or fill it with something. The flywheel should be resurfaced. Typically your local Napa/oreillys can do this if they can turn rotors also. You can drive around without a front driveshaft and just leave the transfer case in 2wd (not neutral) assuming you have the typical NP231. A dana 44 and dana 35 driveshaft lengths are close. About 1” difference so it “may” work but you’ll have to measure to see.

Going to stay oem on this one. Thinking of maybe something like one if these: This is a 90’ eliminator and probably what mine looked like:

I don’t know how much it it for just the axle portion of the quote but brakes should be pretty cheap. Let’s say it’s $200 for brakes (which is very high). That would leave $1000 for an axle rebuild. That’s not a regear mind you but just a R&R of what’s there. Imho that is extremely expensive. If the leak is that bad than you probably wouldn’t be leaking any more as the fluid would have run out. At most shops (although it depends a lot on where you live) they charge a few hundred for a gear swap. Which is a lot more work than replacing bearings and seals.

If your looking for an upgrade to the stock bar you can get the 1.125” bar from a later XJ. I believe 94 was a crossover year. I picked up this bar since it’s was the larger oem version at an unbeatable price: https://teamcherokee.com/front-sway-bar-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-xj-1994-2001/ Also running the addco rear bar. Great combo with the 28mm oem front bar. I think it was Hornbrod who suggested this setup after trying several other versions. Here is the thread discussing the addco and the later model oem:

That’s right

So from all the pics I’ve been gathering, the eliminator should have body colored flares, grill and headlight bezels correct? Along with 10hole wheels with the rivets? Just getting all the details sorted out for an oem restoration with a few updates like the 97+ xj windshield trim.

Lol, it’s a bit if an odd site but I have gotten some hard to find steering column parts from them years ago. They’ve been around a while it seems.

LMGTFY: https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/steering-column-parts/gm-buick-cadillac-chevrolet-oldsmobile-pontiac.php

This is my 90 eliminator original dash This is my 91 dash with the police package Speedo, oil, temp and voltage. Only the tach and the fuel gauge are original 91 MJ

Checkout the brake upgrades thread in the DIY section. The liberty 8.25 is a nice swap. Disks, the right wheel pattern, and nice width. That being said, I’ve towed 2-3 tons with my Dana 35.

The regular 91-96 HO’s both MJ and XJ were red. The police package XJ had a 120mph “certified calibration” speedometer and the entire cluster looks similar to the renix eras but were HO clusters. Some of the export HO clusters had a 120mph speedometer in red.