ctxj93

I found Bosch's scale too slowly. Mine worked on first fire up but then stopped shortly after. I put in an NTK and its been fine since.

Currently I have an 8.25 out back with brand new drum brakes. It'll be a long time before I convert to discs. I already have the JCR bumper counterweight back there too. Just want to keep things simple and safe. I'm very used to driving XJs and MJs with tires that are entirely too large, and brakes that are entirely too weak.

Gotcha. Thank you for the info, much appreciated!

Thanks Pete! I was just planning on running a single inlet/outlet prop valve for the rear brakes and letting the fronts have full pressure with using a tee. Unless there's a reason not to? I had found guys in previous threads using the first valve I linked to. I wasn't sure if there was a purpose to using the 1/8 npt fittings instead of the 3/8×24. I'm going to run that line right back to the hose for the rear brakes which I understand is also 3/8×24.

Not sure if this is the right spot, but Ididn't think it warranted a new post. When deleting the distribution block and load sensing valve and also going to the 96 master cyl/booster, which is the correct wilwood prop valve to use? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-8419 Or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-10922?rrec=true

I ran a double shear rock krawler one on a previous XJ, it worked well. My MJ has all Clayton parts up front including the trackbar. Super beefy, giant joints, nice flag bolt. I would recommend it.

Wouldn't be anywhere near $3k to pull the head, send it out to get pressure tested/decked if you have the ability to do the work. If you wanted to get crazy, you could have them look the valves over while it was at the machine shop too. I got rid of an XJ when I was younger because it needed a headgasket and I've been kicking myself ever since.

Oh that trans is toast my friend. The high whining you heard was probably the pump's dying breath

Put in a set of NGK 7373's today, seems to run pretty good. I took it for about a 10 min ride around the neighborhood, I have no plates or tail lights currently so I'm limited to a couple mile loop. When I got back I plugged in the brick and it was stuck in open loop, o2 sitting at 1v and exhaust reading rich. My NTK sensor had shown up so I put that one in and like everyone has said, it seems to work fine. Went out again for a similar hot lap with the scanner plugged in and everything seems to be functioning correctly. LT fuel trim dropped to 125 after driving it for a bit too. So the moral of the story is don't be an impatient idiot like me. If the guy at Napa offers you the Bosch he has in stock, politely decline. Order the NTK off Rockauto and wait the few extra days.

Where in CT are ya? I would agree, the 96 dual diaphragm booster and master cyl set up should be plenty, especially if you were to disk swap the rear.

Oh I'll always keep wrenching on these things. Defintiely an addiction! I just meant should I be happy with the current cold start crank time or keep trying to make it shorter still.

Thank you again for your help along the way. I guess I need to let it run longer and drive it to see if the LT fuel trim changes. I know you said 3-5 sec would be considered a quick start time. Should I stop trying to improve it at this point?

Ok I promise this is the last time I'll be responding to my own response. Swapped in a Bosch 12009 o2 sensor which showed 4.2 ohms out of the package. It did look different than what came out of it. The truck started right up, same as this morning and to my surprise went into closed loop and stayed there. I have an NTK 23553 on the way in case I have any issues down the road with the current sensor. Here's a video of the data stream, let me know what you think. I'm also interested in any comments on my last start time video. I counted 4 or 5 seconds of crank time. And for good measure, here's a pic from the fall of how it currently sits.

Ok so after a new Group 34 battery. Jeepcables kit and 746 injectors this is the crank time. Cruiser, this should be an apples to apples comparison to my last video. I let it sit overnight, it was around 26 degrees this morning and this was a single key cycle.

Defintiely very similar to what he's dealing with now, not so much in the beginning of the thread. Mine ran/runs fine in open loop. No stalling no backfires. I've dealt with bad renix EGRs before I know how annoying that can be to try to drive. Edit: I see that an o2 sensor that tests in range is tough to come by. I guess I'll see if I can get the old one off my parts truck