Dzimm

I would see what the DMV says first. If they say they won't title it then you may want to part it out so you don't have to deal with a no title vehicle. If they will title it then probably dig in and see what a restoration will take. Either way you can make your money back easily. If you get a new title then even better.

See that's what I thought but my buddy had a base model 97 XJ with the "better" wheel. It must have been swapped at some point. I like the look of the base model wheel better than the "better" wheel and its more comfortable to hold IMO. It's definitely more durable too. Mine has 230k miles of dirty hands on it and still in great shape but all the "better" wheels I've seen even with low miles and fairly well kept vehicles have fallen apart.

1990 (97+) Comanche Eliminator 4.0L, AW4, and Part-time T-case from 98XJ Axles are the original Dana 30/35 Short wheelbase. Build date is unknown due to doors being replaced. August 17, 1989 Build date found thanks to eaglescout526 and JMO413! I own it here in the area of Des Moines, IA It is currently in "project" status as I'm currently doing the 97+ swap This truck is prior salvage due to damage sustained to the front drivers side from a PO. The inner fender and drivers footwell were very smashed before I fixed them. I've owned it since early September of 2016 and have the interior swap complete in about 2 months and am now working on the drivetrain. This truck was originally black but was spray painted white by the PO. I will update this as this truck changes. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

I thought about doing something like this but being 6'4" my head would be inside the speaker hole. I have the front half of an XJ Headliner in mine and the top of my ball cap touches it. I have those same seats in mine, or at least they look to be the same, and I'd say as long as someone is 6' or less this would be fine. I'm pretty sure the factory MJ buckets sit a little lower than these leather seats, at least in mine, so if running those you'd maybe get another inch or two headroom.

Right. Ha. This time is legitimate, or at least as legit as possible. The Mules have been spotted. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

If that doesn't work, try disconnecting your gauge cluster and reinstalling. I've had problems with my gauge clusters in the past and most of the time it was just a bad connection at the cluster.

I was in the same situation as you with mine. I've decided to stay SUA with the 4.5" lift just due to the amount of work that will go into it. As of now I have way too many other things going on and don't really have the time to "build" the axle into a SOA. It's going to be much quicker and simpler to just do a lift and stay SUA.

Just scrolling through some build threads and noticed your steering wheel. My 98 XJ is the only one I have seen with that steering wheel in it, other than yours now. Does anyone know why this is such an uncommon wheel? Or is it common and the hundred other XJs I've sent just coincidentally not had it. I've always been curious about it. Edit: On the build sheet for my XJ it shows it as the "luxury steering wheel" idk what makes it so "luxury" other than it looks better IMO.

That is bazaar. Have to wonder how he new the color of the car did not match the registration before he pulled you over? Guess he ran your plate for some reason and the color mismatch was his weak excuse for probable cause. Officers have much of you and your vehicles info by the plates, which is why we are saying to get it fixed. Obviously they won't do anything in the end since it is just a typo but having to deal with the situation because of a stupid typo just isn't worth it. It's better to just get it fixed now than deal with the consequences of it actually being questioned.

i know, since coolant doesn`t leak thou there... actually i want to heat up something, not cool it, that would be easier... Idk how well it would work to heat something. I don't think the heat dissipation from the coolant would be enough to counteract the cooling from the wind to heat whatever it is you want to heat. Maybe a few degrees warmer. I definitely could be wrong though, would be interested to see how well that would work.

^^^ This. Jeep had a model called the Commander, I believe, so you need to get the registration corrected. If you have a title, check what that says, too, because it probably agrees with the registration. Jeep did make a Commander from 06 till 2010 I believe is when they stopped. I own an 06. It's nice but I like my MJ and XJ better. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

I would have that changed because it can cause problems later on down the road. If you get pulled over and the cop knows it's not a commander, he can wrote you a ticket for no tags due to it being the wrong vehicle and even have it impounded if he's an a$$. Obviously you could fight it but it's not worth the trouble. Also I have come to learn that you should always register you vehicle if you plan on it being on the road again in the next 5 years. Here in Iowa after being unregistered for 5+ years you can register it no problem no penalties. If it hasn't been registered in less than 5 years then you have to pay back registration and a penalty fee. I had to pay back registration and an additional $100 in penalty fees due to mine sitting unregistered for 2 years. Not much in savings but thats $100 I could have put into the truck. I don't know what the policies are in your state but you should check and maybe save yourself some money in the long run.

I ran these for a while and they are a huggggge improvement over the factory lights. Just be careful because having the plastic lens they do scratch easily and they don't get warm so they won't melt the snow off so you'll be scrapping on them to remove snow and ice and they will scratch. I ended up switching to the Rampage conversion kit https://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Lighting-Jeep-Lighting-Accessories/Rampage-H4-Headlamp-Conversion-Kit-55-60W-5089927.aspx?t_c=14&t_s=67&t_pt=4730&t_pn=RPP5089927 and they are almost as bright as these Cree lights in low beams but they have much better distance with the brights on aaannnd get warm enough to melt snow and have a glass front so they won't scratch. These are both great options but consider what I mentioned when buying either.

They don't run into the actual coolant. There are separate lines inside the radiator to cool off the Trans fluid. The radiator is just pipes running back and forth and they have the fluids running through them. The coolant entering the radiator will be at about 190* or more so it's not going to cool off anything, it's the wind passing through the radiator that cools the coolant and Trans fluid if you had an auto. You technically could use those unused lines for some other fluid to be cooled if you wanted since you don't need them.

It's really awesome to see he is finally in the production phase. I watched his videos on this through the early development phases. He definitely spent a METRIC TON of time on this project and it's paying off. I don't have a renix but I still found this project interesting and will purchase one when I end up with a renix.

This is exactly the case. I noticed that POs of my XJ swapped in some non-greasable parts. Best bet is to just get under it and start looking at everything. Takes some time but also allows you to learn every square inch of your vehicle and find any other pending issues that may be present.

I have grey end caps and the whole handle if you need it.

I don't mind spending money and would rather be safe than sorry, but obviously I don't want to be wasteful. If there's a legitimate reason something might need to be changed at 200k miles, I want to make sure it's done and done right. I figure with things like brakes I'll wait until I replace them once it gets warmer to do a full tune-up. I've driven it a bit already and they felt fine so I'm not too concerned with them. Any particular reason you'd wait on the coolant? Seems to be pretty straightforward and inexpensive to do. Yeah there are things to consider like dirty comanche is saying. If you plan to do things to it that will require you to be in there anyway then it will be beneficial to wait. However if you just want to start with a good clean slate it is best to go all out. As far as what it has had done in the past you have to realize at 200k miles and being 24 years old it is bound to have had the major maintenance things not done at least in a long while. If things feel right and seem to work fine it probably is fine and will run fine for a whole but that is a big MIGHT. If you don't want to do everything just pick and choose what you want to do and realize there are benefits and disadvantages as far as reliability and cost associated with your decision to do preventative maintenance or not.

Thought of more stuff... Check the brakes and brake lines. Flushing the brake fluid isn't a bad idea, its Hydroscopic so it takes in water and overtime this degrades brake performance and can corrode the brake lines from the inside out. A member had this happen in a pristine XJ recently and ended up rear-ending someone. Change the fuel filter. As far as the rust I mentioned before, check the floors, this is the most common spot on our trucks to rust out. Ummm... I'm sure I'm missing something but these are all definitely things to do to have the "clean slate" you're looking for.

I would change all fluids. Both differentials, Trans and tcase. Even flush cooling system and blow out the heater core real good, lots of crud likes hiding there. Check all grounds. Change plugs and wires along with distributor cap and rotor. Check your suspension and make sure everything like the bushings and things are intact. Grease anything that has fittings. Check your motor mounts to be sure they are intact. Wouldn't be a bad idea to clean the throttlebody either. Also look for any rust and repair it NOW because the longer you wait, the harder it is to fix. Edit: also check out "Cruisers mostly renix tips" there's great info there even for non-renix Jeeps.

Just ordered 2 with Pete's link. The seller gives a discount when ordering 2! It also has a good picture to represent what needs to be done for installation. Very simple.

Chains are truly the unsafest way to pull someone out, Look into kinectic energy ropes(bubba rope, voodoo rope, master pull) it's literally a rubber band and have seen Cherokees pull 2 ton mud boggers out I think he was talking about tire chains. He was on snow and using a winch. I'm only assuming here but that is how I read it.

This looks perfect and very thin too! I think I'm gonna order it and see how it fits and looks. Thanks!

Around here if you have a third brake light that has 5 bulbs and only 4 are working, you get a ticket. Same with multi-bulb tailight. If its a newer vehicle with the led tailights and a couple leds in the array are out, you get a ticket. It's of course obvious when a tail light is out completely but no they look for parts of lights not working and bust you for that. It's ridiculous.

That doesn't help with a cargo light though. I'd rather not put holes in the gate either as mine is super clean.