Dzimm

If you have the 23 gallon Dakota tank it may be beneficial to take it and the fuel pump assembly out. They are much harder to come by than the 15 gallon and a great option for someone doing the 97+ swap on their MJ who doesn't want a fuel cell in the bed of the truck. They fit both long and short bed MJs. Also the Dakota split bench seat is nice in an MJ. Other than that, no reason to keep it.

OK. I did try the spit method initially to no avail and I didn't hear any relays clicking while doing anything with the crank sensor but I will keep it in mind if it happens again. Thanks!

Oh when you are saying CPS are you referring to the camshaft or crankshaft sensor? I was thinking crankshaft but now it would make sense if you were referring to the camshaft sensor.

This is true. I'm just trying to be confident in it again. I will be carrying spare sensors with me and be prepared for it to reoccur at least for a while.

Well I made it home no problem. It's been started and ran several times with no issue. Seems to be fixed to me! Thanks everyone for the input!

P/n 56041030 is the distributor cam sensor listed for a 98 model. The 97 model p/n listed is 56027023. I don't know the difference. They call it a SWITCHPLATE, Distributor. I'll have to look and see what p/n the ones I have are. In other news it started!! Idk what exactly fixed it but I turned the key on, put a test light to the pins on the cam sensor plug, on one of the pins it lit up and I heard a click that sounded like a relay around the drivers side firewall area, then unplugged the MAP sensor and tried starting. The starter clicked and everything shut off, no lights nothing, plugged the MAP sensor back in and it fired right up. I let it idle for a few minutes and then shut it off and restarted it. It stumbled a little but I think it was due to sitting for almost a week without running. After another minute or two it started to misfire on one of the cylinders and just lightly feathering the gas made that go away. I will go let it idle for a while over lunch and get up to temp. Fingers crossed I'll be able to drive it home tonight!!!

I will give it a try. Thanks.Edit: Just to verify, you're saying yours started when you unplugged the MAP sensor?

Well unfortunately the one I got was about 1/8" too small. I'm gonna have to order one online. Even Chrysler didn't have it anywhere close. Napa had this one in their warehouse but I'm guessing it's for a 2.5l.

You and everyone else I've talked to. Even mechanics are having trouble coming up with other options. I've gone through and double checked absolutely everything. The only lead I have is the scanner from today saying it's the cam sensor. I'm keeping my fingers crossed replacing that fixes it.

Well I hope that's not gonna be the case but on this new set of plugs I've only cranked 4 times and only for a few seconds. I can't imagine that's enough to kill them.

I did not check for spark with that hooked up but I did use a test light and it lit up. So I may be getting spark then when providing that 12v. Could this mean that the cam sensor indeed may be bad and causing the engine to just not run?

Yeah. Checked the fuses as well as swapped the relays around. I even tried running a wire from the battery + to the white wire to for sure provide 12v but it still didn't start.

Yeah spins at normal starting speed. It usually starts up immediately as the starter engages. It's been the strongest running XJ I've ever seen and I've always been very on top of maintenance and keeping it in tip top shape so this is just weird for it to do this.

Sounds perfect. No weird sounds or hesitation or anything.

No, you replaced the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) on the bell housing, not the cam sensor. The cam sensor is in the distributor and it's sometimes called the distributor pickup or sync sensor like I mentioned previously. I had one go bad in my 91 causing the same no-start symptoms you have and it didn't throw a code. The earlier (96 and below) cam sensors look like the below, but am not sure about the 98's. It may be under the distributor for these vehicles and needs to be indexed. I've had the wires break where they enter the distributor. You couldn't see it, but wiggling the wires while someone cranks the engine over would let it start. Wiggling the wires isnt working in my case.

Yes I replaced with the correct cam sensor that matches your picture, it came from the 98 XJ motor in the manche. Like I said idk if it is any good. And it didn't have an actual number code, my CEL wasn't even on but his scan tool picked it up as a problem and spelled out camshaft position sensor rather than a code.

No, you replaced the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) on the bell housing, not the cam sensor. The cam sensor is in the distributor and it's sometimes called the distributor pickup or sync sensor like I mentioned previously. I had one go bad in my 91 causing the same no-start symptoms you have and it didn't throw a code. The earlier (96 and below) cam sensors look like the below, but am not sure about the 98's. It may be under the distributor for these vehicles. I replaced both the stator (cam sensor) and the crank sensor. The stator I wasn't sure if it worked for sure because it came off my Comanche and I haven't had that motor running yet.

Well his scanner says camshaft sensor. I've tried 2 and neither worked so I'll go get another and try that. Also to clarify, is the white wire going into the ignition coil supposed to have a 12v constant? I read that somewhere it does but I can't find any info on it in the FSM or online.

I've tried this in the past and never had success. No matter what versions of the procedure I have used.

None. It originally was the lower O2 sensor but it went away likely due to the battery being disconnected so long. I'm not getting any codes now. A guy here at work has a better scan tool that we are gonna try here in a little bit and see if it will pick anything up.

Tach is not moving when cranking. Does the starter even spin fast enough for that to show up on the tach? I have had the distributor completely apart and all the wires are fine. It's got a new stator, cap, and rotor on it. I went back and rechecked all my grounds and they are fine as well as swapped the And relay out with another and nothing has changed.

Still won't start after the new CPS and the other PCM didn't work either. I'm at a loss right now.

Well the tune up and ignition coil didn't fix my starting issue but the coil was cracked and falling apart so it definitely needed replaced. I went and bought a crankshaft position sensor so I will try it tomorrow, and of course it is now cold and snowing... Great.

Same here, only 2. Would be cool to have a 2 door version shirt. The image looks good but the fuel door is on the wrong side. Was this done intentionally? No. Crap lol. Thanks for pointing that out! No problem! May order some of these to go with my Comanche ones. Definitely will if you make a 2 door one. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Thanks I may go that route. I could pull it from the truck but idk for sure that one works nor do I want to do it twice if I don't have to.