Dzimm

So I forgot it was two parts. I cut the front section that has the fuel pump on it. The rear section is complete.

It's the whole harness. I cut it right at the grommet where it comes out of the cab. I accidentally stepped on the plug and smashed it and I needed the grommet for my custom harness. I'll take pictures when I get home in about 2 hours. Edit: if you just need a small part of it I can cut it off and send that as well.

I have one that I had cut about a foot away from the main plug so if you still need one rather than cut a good one let me know I can get this one boxed and shipped.

Add a person or two and I bet it'll sag. I'm guessing it's got lift springs or shackles that have dropped to appropriate ride height with the weight. You think the box on the front is there as a counterweight? I could imagine it did some sweet wheel stands if you stomped the gas.

Well right but I'm trying to avoid doing it twice. If I go get it shortened to drive it and then a month later lift it and have to go back and get it lengthened kind of is pointless.

I'm going with the 4.5" lift from Hell Creek. I was hoping to drive it before I lifted it but that may not be the best route since I may have to have the driveshaft modified. I will check the shaft I have against my XJ to be sure which vehicle it came from and then try to guesstimate the lift height and driveline length on the truck to see where that puts it. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll just fit at that height.

OK well check your relay first to see if it is stuck closed.

That's what I was expecting as well but once the aw4 and TC were installed, the driveshaft is too long by like 1-2" unless I'm mistaking it with the MJ driveshaft (it came in the bed of the truck when I bought it and everything was XJ parts I was told). I'll compare it to my XJ today to see about the length.

Did you just unplug the old one and plug in the new one? No other electrical work? Also does it shut off after any amount of time or just constantly run? First thing I would check is the relay.

I actually bought it gutted so there was no drivetrain. It was 4x4 originally thankfully so no axle swap. Anyhow I've heard plenty of people say they ended up having to use a TC drop on MJs because of vibes and many people say they haven't. And having to shorten the XJ driveshaft is going to make vibes more likely due to the shorter shaft and steeper angle, which is why I'm concerned. Either way I'm going to have to have work done to the shaft so I'm leaning more towards the double cardon just to eliminate the chance for vibes all together and not have to pay for the shaft twice. But I'm a little worried that will put stress on the output shaft of the TC because of the added weight of the double cardon. When I lifted my XJ 3" I had to use a TC drop because of vibes and I really don't like how low that put the crossmember, and being my DD, it couldn't be down to install an SYE. I know the longer trucks are far less likely to get vibes with moderate lift but having to shorten an XJ shaft makes me almost sure I'll get vibes just because pretty much all XJs get vibes with 3+" due to the short driveshaft and steeper angle.

Just wondering what others have done for the driveshafts of their 97+ MJs with 4.0 aw4. Most of what I have seen are full custom shafts at a few hundred a pop. I'm looking at staying on the more affordable side. I'm nearing the point of test drive in mine and am wondering weather I should just buy a used factory front ds for $50 or have one made up for $$$. From what I understand it should be totally fine to run the factory front ds with 4.5" of lift, which I'm planning. As for the rear, the factory xj shaft I have is a little long so I either need it shortened or have a new one made. I am planning on 4.5" of lift, as stated above, and I want to avoid a TC drop so I've been looking for options. I believe I will get driveline vibes with a shortened xj shaft at 4.5" so I went and found Tom Woods custom double cardon slip yoke shafts. http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html I am wondering if anyone has gone this route or anyone think there would be any problems having a little extra weight on the slip yoke with the double cardon. This is really the only affordable route I can find to reduce driveline angle without the TC drop. I know I could go with an SYE but obviously that gets very expensive. Really any input is appreciated. Thanks.

Go through and check ALL the grounds. Always start with grounds because they usually are your problem. The easiest way to find them is to start at the battery and just start following wires to their destinations and clean every ground you find along the way with a wire brush or sand paper. Replace any super rusty or broken terminals along the way.

I was in the process of typing about them nickel and diming when I accidentally hit the back button on my mouse.. Then here comes Hornbrod beating me to it. Ha. Sorry to hear of the troubles. Wish insurance companies would cover what it is and not what it was from the factory when it comes to upgrades to vehicles like this.

Autozone sells Cherkampers!? Hope they don't sell out before I get there.

If all goes as planned I will be giving my MJ a running engine for the first time in over a year and a half.

Yeah I think I cried a little when it went on. Realfeel is more like 0F here and it's only gonna get colder. It usually feels at least 10F colder than what the thermometer says on a GOOD day, if the sun is out. What I wouldn't give for it to be 50F... Still gonna plug away on the truck no matter how cold. I'm determined to drive it right after the road salt is washed away this spring.

It's in!!! I ended up taking it completely off the engine, readjusted the jacks a little, and then wiggled it forward and back slowly until it FINALLY decided to slide on! The alignment pin trick definitely made a huge difference as well as pulling it completely off and trying again until it just slides on. Thanks for the tips!!

Yeah I know that's prolly the best idea but I don't have an extra set of hands now so imma have to figure out how to do it alone. Edit: and its freaking cold here!!

I'm not sure what the motor had for a Trans originally as it came with the truck without one. The torque converter was bolted to the engine still so I just took it off and put it in the Trans first and then started the install. The starter is out and it does feel like the torque converter is seated but there just is no way to see in to visually check if it is seating in the flex plate. I do believe it is just because the gap was so small between the Trans and engine and the other 3 bolts went most of the way on by hand and pretty easily with the wrench until it sucked up tight. It is possible that the 5" bolt I was using may have been bottoming out on the back of the hole or the threads may have bottomed out. I'll try holding the Trans with a strap so it doesn't come back apart when I take the long bolt out and try to get the factory bolt in and see how easily/hard it is to turn it. If it goes easy then everything should be seated properly. The engine is missing a bolt on the drivers side motor mount so it is sitting a little funny right now and that may be part of my problem.

OK so that worked for 3 bolts on the bell housing, thanks Hornbrod, however I had to use long bolts as the hardware store was out of the correct size threaded rod. The lower factory bolt on the passenger side is just too short and no matter what adjusting I do I can't get it to start threading. I can tighten the other 3 all the way down and there is still about a 1/4" gap on that lower one that won't close enough to start the factory bolt however if I use a 5" bolt with a large socket to act as washers I can close it to about an 1/8" before it gets really tight and as soon as I back it off the bellhousing pulls back to the 1/4" gap, which is just too far for the factory 3" bolt to start. I'm just a little stumped at the moment. Any ideas? Maybe try a 3.5" bolt instead of the factory 3"?

OK will do thanks! It's a 7/16-14 bolt on bottom IIRC? Stopping on the way home from work so I won't have the bolt to check.

I have been trying using the longest bolt I have to line it up but it is just too short. I'll have to see about getting a longer one and try that tonight. Was also gonna try using ratchet straps round the rear most jack and the front axle to help pull forward on it because the jacks are also stuck on the very rough floor. Any reason that would be a bad idea?

Any tips on lining up an aw4 and a 4.0? I've got it butted up to the engine but I can't seem to get the pin on the back of the torque converter to slide in to the pocket on the flex plate. The bell housing is about 1/4 - 3/8 in away from touching the engine. I've got a jack under the front of the Trans and one on the Trans mount both facing parallel to the truck but it just won't slide in. Nothing around the outside of the bellhousing or Trans is hitting anything so it has to be that pin on the torque converter not lining up. It seems to be the washer looking deal that is the problem. Sorry no pics just yet.

No it helps minimize body roll when turning or driving across a slope. It also limits the flex of vehicles so most offroad rigs don't have them. Does nothing as far as strength to the axle. Side note, Google is your friend as is the search box here.

Wow that is super clean. I don't think I've seen one in this kind of shape before.