Dzimm

Ah yes thats the other thing I was trying to think of, the grounds are good. And yeah thats what I was afraid of. Are the cheaper ebay crank sensors any good. I really don't want to fork over $100+ for it and the $15 ones have a much more appealing price tag.

OK so I am having a no start issue with my DD and I am hoping to get some other opinions so I can get it back on the road ASAP! So I have a 98 XJ with the 4.0 and it won't start. I drove it to work this morning and the CEL was on (usually isnt). Drove fine, no issues whatsoever. Got off work and it turns over just fine sounds like a healthy start but it just won't start. I checked my code and it's the lower O2 sensor, which I replaced recently and is known to be good. I checked for fuel and that's good at the fuel rail, I am getting air out of the spark plug holes while turning over so compression/air seems good without using a proper testing device, I checked for spark and nothing. I read that on the white wire going into the ignition coil I should get a 12v constant when the key is in the "on" position but I am not getting anything. When I put the test light on the green wire I get voltage in pulses when the engine is turning over. I pulled the plug wire from the output side of the coil and it was a little corroded and rusty so I cleaned it up but still no spark. I also tried a spare Stator I had but that made no difference. From what I can gather with the O2 sensor tripping the CEL, I'm guessing I'm not burning all my fuel and it probably needs a tune up. I'm doing the plugs, wires, etc. Including the coil tomorrow morning. However I'm confused as to how it was totally normal all the way to work and as soon as it was shut off it wouldn't start. I'm really hoping it's not the crankshaft sensor but it is a possibility. I also read that it could be caused by a bad PCM, I do have an extra but my XJ is a 2dr SE with no options, would a PCM from a 98 4dr sport with the same engine/Trans but all the other options work? Is there anything else that anyone can think of to check? Other maybe helpful info, the battery has a good 12.3 volts and everything else on the Jeep is working fine. Thanks in advance.

That's a really good sketch! Woulda had more horsepower if it was done on a Surface Pro... [emoji13] Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Same here, only 2. Would be cool to have a 2 door version shirt. The image looks good but the fuel door is on the wrong side. Was this done intentionally?

I like the fuel tank lock idea. I don't think I will go that far with it though. I'm going to get a locking cap instead. Edit: Thought about this more and I think it would be easier to use an electromagnet that's too strong to open when it's locked.

This would be difficult to do and still make it look clean. Plus my rear slider is very difficult to open so idk how it would work. That would be very cool. I don't have a sunroof but if I did I would definitely look into it.

I'm just curious as to why you need/want them? I've never seen them before but from looking at it I would think it's gonna trap water and debris in the door jamb.

Sorry to see this happen. It's a shame to have one of our own wrecked like that. It's always funny to me to see how badly damaged the other car or van is compared to the well built MJ/XJ.

Ah yes I wouldn't of thought to use a latching relay. I was thinking more along the lines of splicing into the wires and running them elsewhere. Idk what exactly I would use it for. I won't have a winch on this truck, the only lights I really see it useful for is auxiliary reverse lights. Or maybe a security switch (must be holding it to start the truck). Any other ideas for uses?

I just had an idea pop into my head this morning. So with the 97+ swap usually you end up with the window controls for a 4dr. Since it's very difficult to locate a 2dr switch bezel, couldn't you use the rear switches for a different purpose? I don't see why not but I couldn't find anything on someone doing this. Has anyone done it? Does anyone see any issues with it? Obviously they are momentary switches and only work when you hold them but they can be useful for something. I was thinking additional reverse lights.

Exactly. If you have the know how to work on them it's a no brainer. Once they are running up to par, maintenance tends to be cheaper and they are much easier to work on. Even taking them to a shop it is usually cheaper because the repair is quicker without all the stupid plastic covers and small parts. Why do you think mechanics tend to drive older cars?? Hint: it's not because they like "working" at home.

If you just want another car, then buy one. But don't try to fool yourself that going from a 25 mpg car to even a 40 mpg car will make economic sense by the time you pay $3 or 4K for your next car. Here in San Diego gas costs $2.50/gal right now. At 25 mpg, gas costs you ten cents for each mile you drive. At 40 mpg gas costs you six and a quarter cents per mile. So if you drive 100,000 miles you will save $3750. in fuel costs. How many years will it take you to drive 100,000 miles? If you want to save gas money, take your $3500 and put it down on a NEW Honda Fit. You will have to make car payments, but you will have no repairs/worries for many years and you will not be driving a P.O.S. car. Something to think about, right? The problem with this is that with the car payments you lose your extra spending money. And by the time the car pays for itself at 100k miles, it will have gone through enough other parts and problems that it basically equates to keeping your current car running and by the time you sell it/make your money in gas back, all the value is gone so you actually lose money in the end. In the grand scheme of things if you have a decent running car it's more cost effective to just keep it even if it gets slightly lower gas mileage. Buying a car NEW is a complete waste of money IMO, especially if you have the knowledge to fix things yourself. Unless it's a toy and something special I just can't justify it. And holy crap I wish gas was that cheap. It's in the $3.50 range here.

So you think a SYE would be wise or a new drive shaft? I'm pretty certain it wasent flexed out all the way. I'm certain the shocks bottomed out before the leaf Springs did. And if I put fox shocks on the back to match the front.... It will have more travel. If you get an SYE you will have to have a new driveshaft made or your current one modified. So either way you would have to modify the driveshaft. As long as your driveline angles are fine and you don't get vibes, an SYE is a waste of money.

If the clear coat is scuffed then the graffiti remover may get through and eat the factory paint. I would do a small spot first and make sure that it doesn't before doing the whole thing.

This is true and a very good point. There are fieros pretty common around here. Most are for sale too. No idea on condition though.

Yeah that's probably your best option. If you own a car that runs it is usually better to fix the little things to tolerate it a little longer until you just happen to stumble on something you want. You never know what problems you'll run into with buying a new-to-you vehicle and sometimes those problems are worse than the ones you dealt with on the old car.

I couldn't help but notice that the MJ was not specifically stated in the hierarchy of vehicles and therefore it must be assumed as in the "other" category? Or are we mashing it in with the XJ without specifically saying so?

I'm in the same boat as you. The PO spray painted the whole truck. I've found that just elbow grease and sandpaper is doing a decent job at removing it, obviously a palm sander is the way to go to do the whole truck. Mine is just sprayed over the clear coat though. Is yours sanded and then painted or just painted over the clear? To get a nice finish from the new paint you are going to have to do some sanding no matter what.

How "factory" of a fix are you looking for? Cause you know duct tape fixes everything!!

I'm not sure. They came with the truck and the PO said the seats were from a different vehicle. They bolt right up to the MJ so I'm assuming they are MJ brackets. I'm pretty sure he said they were from an XJ. They don't fold forward so it's from a 4dr something. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Are they still power seats ? I switched mine to manual and without them being in the vehicle , I'd say they are ok . Lol I was just reading this part of your build thread. Anyway no these are manual seats. I believe they are from a 4dr XJ originally.

I've got a set of these seats in my Eliminator and have been wondering where they came from. Is there anyway to make these sit lower? I'm 6'4" and my head touches the Headliner. I like the leather seats but will probably have to replace them if there isn't a way to lower them. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

The strategy of overpricing the Wrangler seems to have worked quite well though. There's millions of them here. My hand gets sore from all the waving.It's gotten to the point around here that 99% of the Wrangler owners are not Jeep people at all and only got it because it's cool to own one or something. You wave to a wrangler driver and they give you the "why the hell he waving at me" look. Only the older wrangler and XJ drivers give the wave anymore. Edit: Oh and the 1 guy who owns a Scrambler waves.

My grandpa had both knees and a hip replaced over last few years. After his first knee replacement it was about a week of having to be a couch potato because he really couldn't walk on it at all. After 2 weeks he could kind of walk with a cane. By 1 month he seemed mostly back to normal and after a few months he was able to lightly jog for short periods of time on it but it would still hurt a little every once in a while. Obviously everyone is a little different but I would expect about the same time frame. He's mid 50s and has been active his whole life.