Dzimm

From the looks of the pictures you're prolly better using the 91 as a beater truck and just fixing up the 86 as a nice truck. It will be a lot of work to fix everything on the 91. The way I look at it is there could be 1 nice and 1 beater mj on the road or just 1 nice mj if you chop up the 86.

Three things I can think of, first make sure you are setting your distributor to align with top dead center on the COMPRESSION stroke. Second, check your timing chain and make sure it is not stretched and aligned properly. Third, I know the parts are new but they do come faulty sometimes. It may be worth it to go back and get a different one. Also are you getting spark, compression, and fuel?

The license plate lights are wired into the whole tailight harness. If you have a good tailight harness that's missing the plate light wires you can just tap into the tailight wires with new wire and connectors. Don't cut up a good harness just for the short bit of wire.

Perfect candidate for 4.0 and 4wd swap! Yeah, I keep hearing that. Anybody have a parts list and est. cost to do that? :dunno:Parts list: -Donor XJ of similar year (4.0 and 4x4) Cost: -Whatever the donor costs -Time to do the swap There may be a few parts here and there that you'll need such as a driveshaft for the rear since the xj is shorter and anything the donor may have needed but overall its a simple thing to do.

Are you going SOA?No I will be using Hell Creeks lift with full springs. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk In that case I would wait on the cables until you get your lift installed. A rear SOA lift is pretty easy to predict the lift results, but spring lift results can vary. I did a spring lift using MT springs and longer shackles, swapped the axle and installed disk brakes, and my stock cables were plenty long enough. You don't want to buy longer cables until you are sure you need them. Well normally I would wait but I don't have cables at all. Both axles had them cut so I need new ones. I may just wait on them until I have the axle reinstalled. I just would like to have as many parts I know I need as possible so I can get it put together. X Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Are you going SOA? No I will be using Hell Creeks lift with full springs. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Perfect candidate for 4.0 and 4wd swap!

From what I have found in my research, the LWB and SWB rear cables ('splitter' bracket to the drums) are the same length. The bracket is mounted further back on the LWB allowing for the same length in the rear section on both. The front sections (from the cab to the 'splitter' bracket) are what are different between them.

Which side was too short? Could you measure yours from the bracket to the drum so I can get an idea of what I'll need? I'm looking at Rockauto and they have a 48.5" and a 49 3/4" both having 8" of line being inside the drum. No other retailer that I can find says the lengths of the cables.

Got quite a bit done this weekend. Fuel tank is in place and rear section of fuel lines are hooked up. I still need to find an evap canister and lines for that. I think I'll go with the 98 XJ setup I stead of the engine bay canister. I got the spring perches and shock mounts cut off the C8.25. Went through 5 cutoff wheels, 2 grinding disks, and 3 flap disks between the axle and fixing my bumper. When I first had the bumper welded up, I didn't think there would be interference between the bars on the ends and the front grille on the truck since they were pre-notched but the way they were notched put them too far back. It's the DIY Mojave Prerunner from Dirtbound Offroad. It's a good quality bumper for the price. You can see in this picture that it cuts the corner of the bend. I got these cut off and cleaned up. I decided to also add some light tabs to the main bar and reused the spring perches I cut off the C8.25 to make them. It worked out well. I used the shock mounts from the C8.25 so I could cut and shape them. Here's what they looked like before and after cleaning up. The last thing I did was mounting my auxiliary fuse box. It fits perfectly on the drivers side of the engine bay. I just bent these two parts on the mounting bracket so I could bolt it in and it's very solid. Tomorrow after work I will be going with a buddy from work and welding the new spring perches on the axle, fixing the bumper, and adding the light tabs. I haven't welded in 4 years so hopefully my skills aren't too rusty. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Another option is go to the jy and find an XJ that has keys. Test the locks and if they work, take them and the keys. I had all mismatched locks so I took the ignition, glove box, and door locks from one so they all match. Yes they are used but they match and are cheap.

I am swapping a C8.25 into my MJ and will have a 4.5" lift. From what I can find, the MJ has ~50" rear cables stock. From this I conclude I should get cables that are between 55 to 60 inches. Does anyone know of a vehicle with cables this length? I've checked into some trucks but not finding anything that will work. What cables have you guys used with the axle swaps and lifts?

Well it has been warming up here so I've been able to get some work done on the Comanche. Last Friday I went and picked up a 97+ C8.25 with 3.55 gears from 90PioSport99 to replace the craptastic DANA 35. It is matching gears to the 97' DANA 30 currently in the truck. I was planning on getting the 35 torn out last weekend but I ended up taking shots of Fireball that night so my Saturday wasn't very fun and then I've been sick all week. Tonight however, I finally felt well enough to work on it. I started with some spacers to drop the fuel tank down so the top of the fuel pump won't hit the bed of the truck. I used this dense insulation and just cut out a few squares to go on top of the tank. I am painting these black so I don't just have big pink blocks under the truck. The surface of them separates a little with the primer so I don't know how well they will turn out. I also am unsure of how to fasten them to the tank. I am thinking that just the force from the tank straps will be fine to hold them in place. Worst case scenario I can wrap a strip of Gorilla tape around the tank. Sometime this week a buddy from work and I will be going to a farm about an hour away where he has access to a welder. We will be welding on some new Mopar spring perches (Part# P4120074) to the C8.25 and fixing the prerunner bars on my bumper (I will get into the bumper in a later post). I called the local dealership but he couldn't find any spring perches in the system, even with the part number I gave him. He was only able to find axle housings. I thought that was a little strange, I didn't realize full axle housings would be available for the XJ still. I ended up ordering the perches from eBay. I also ordered an AW4 computer from TimBuckThree out of Colorado. I've dealt with them a few times now and they are very well priced, ship very quickly, and have great customer service. They seem to have all the oddball parts that I can't ever find anywhere or at least anywhere for a decent price, so I'd recommend checking there if you need something and can't find it. They also send you a sticker when you buy stuff! Before After I wasn't really planning on pulling the axle tonight but I did anyway. Only took about 30 minutes, which was surprising to me. I was hoping to take a look at the brakes just to see how bad they were but no matter what I did, the drum would not come off. Even the BFH failed me. I got tired of beating on it so I just gave up on that. When I rolled it on the floor it left a thick line of brake dust so I can only imagine the last time they were replaced. Do these bump stops look new? I imagined they would be completely gone but these are in perfect shape. Here is the axles side by side. C8.25 on bottom, DANA 35 on top. I will have to do all new brakes on the new axle but I can't decide if I want to do the KJ disk swap or just go with drums. Drums will be cheaper, quicker, and easier but if I want to go disks, now is the time to do it since the whole brake system is getting redone. Anyone have reasons for or against the disk swap? I'm secretly building a hover-truck.

you added a comma. there is no comma. a cherokee visor does not and will not fit a comanche This is true. Look at my build thread for pictures of a cherokee visor on an MJ.

I wish! But sadly no. Maybe at some point I'll have the funds and time to search for one but for now I need a solution for a third brake light/cargo light that mounts directly to the truck. I'm not as concerned with the third brake light but if a cop around here sees a light up there he will assume it's a brake light and I will be pulled over when it doesn't come on. I'd rather avoid that headache all together and do a third brake light too. Around here they don't mess around with brake lights being out. funny i,m reading this. my son just a couple weeks ago got pulled over for the third brake light not working. when the cop was informed the truck was older than third brake light laws, he changed the car stop to the hitch ball obstructing the license plate and wrote a citation for that. what a fool. It's funny how cops immediately change their story when they are proved wrong. Shoulda asked why every vehicle pulling a trailer doesn't get pulled over cause that's obstructing the license plate. I feel like this would be a ticket that is very easy to fight in court.

I thought the same thing when I first read it but these are actually Comanche visors. I've been talking with the guy and he currently doesn't make these with the cab lights but we may have worked out a way to implement them. They look to be of good quality and he says he used a Lund visor to make the mold so it is an exact replica. He will be getting back to me in a few days on it because he is currently on a trip.

Are you the one selling this? I will take it! Scratch that, I've been talking to the guy and he's making these.

The only thing I can think of is use a piece of sandpaper and a plastic scraper and use the scraper to push around the sandpaper back in there but even that won't do a great job. There really is no good way to get into areas like that other than media blasting and doing that inside the cab would be a freaking mess.

Close to show ready or rock crawler... Make up your mind buddy. Lol. Also gotta love the covered license plate in one picture and not covered in the next.

Is there a link to these reproduction visors somewhere?

IIRC they are different however you can switch them and it will work. The only difference is that the turn signal flasher causes the rapid flashing when a bulb is out and the hazard one does not. People have done this when swapping in LED lights because of the lower power draw causing it to flash rapidly even though the bulbs are working. If you are looking at buying a replacement however, I would just buy the correct one.

That's the latest Comanche concept truck. The one they are releasing will be on the Wrangler platform. If it sells well they may do a small pickup like this but not likely. Chrysler doesn't want to compete against themselves even though the Jeep lineup would do well with a couple pickups. Maybe even some crossover type Jeep similar to the Scrambler.

Honestly your best bet is to find a 97+ wiper motor. It I'll be easier and will be less wiring mess. You can sell your 96- wiper motor for about what you can buy a 97+ wiper motor for.

Correction - about the largest size tires that will fit an MJ with no lift and no cutting of the body are 31x10.50 -- and that's only on factory Jeep (XJ or MJ) rims. On the factory rims, the fronts will fit up inside the fenders when compressed, but the tires will rub on the lower control arms at full steering lock. In the rear, the inside sidewall comes VERY close to the leaf spring and the inner fender liner. Just about all aftermarket rims have less backspacing so they're better in the rear but create more problems in the front. Bolt pattern aside, I don't know what the wheel width or backspacing is for those Wrangler rims so I don't know how they fit into the picture. I would not think that a 277/75-17 is likely to fit an MJ without both a lift and some cutting of the sheet metal. If it's a nice, solid truck, it would IMHO be a shame to start chopping it up just to use some tires and wheels that don't belong on it. Thanks for the correction, I did mean to say 31" my bad, and I didn't think about the backspacing difference so I guess that would change wheel to wheel. More info would be needed in this situation. Edit: the backspacing may not be as much of a concern if the bolt spacing is 5on5 you'll have to get adapters which will push the wheel out. Still may run though like Eagle said. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm a little curious as to how the wheel would have bolted up..? Also you mentioned body lift in the first post, the Comanche and Cherokee are both unibody meaning the frame and body are one piece so you can't do a body lift. Suspension lifts are very easy to do but they do seem intimidating. Your best bet is to watch a few videos of a lift being put on a Cherokee since it's basically the same vehicle and videos are MUCH more common for them. I also want to mention that a lift specified for an XJ will not work on the MJ as far as the REAR. The front is exactly the same and will work fine, but the rear leaves are longer on the MJ and they are stiffer springs so if you use say a 3" lift add-a-leaf from an XJ, you will end up with closer to a 1" lift on the MJ. You can however use a lift Shackle from an XJ kit and get the advertised lift. As far as fitting the wheels and tires, I would say 33" is about maximum size on a stock front end with minimal rubbing (your mileage may vary). You shouldn't get rubbing in the stock rear end with 33" so an option to consider if the truck has much rake, you can put some coil spacers in the front to bring the front up an inch or two leveling the truck out and maybe giving you the room to fit the tires. The problem with this route is that as soon as the bed has weight in it, your front end becomes taller than the rear. You do have quite a few options moving forward so based on how much work and money you want invested in it you'll have to decide what you can do. Just remember, from the B-pillar forward, it is the same as a similar year XJ, there is more info out there on XJs and that info can be applied to the front of our trucks, lifts can be expensive and you don't want to cheap out on suspension parts because you will pay the price one way or another, we're here to help so keep asking questions, oh and last thing THIS IS AN ADDICTION! before long the truck will be 10 feet in the air with 40" tires and 500 hp and you'll end up with 2 MJs and 3 XJs in your own yard and hitting the trails every weekend.