Dzimm

If you are talking about the clips above the doors, the Headliner will slide out of them. You may have to bend them outward slightly.

Only 20 more years and I can afford one!

If you don't mind the gray color underneath you can strip the paint off of them.

Yes this we need to know. After rereading it does sound like the OP was talking about the interior ones. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Damn, this a little out of reach for me as well.. Lol. These numbers are crazy.

Out of the box it does not fit however with some creativity it does. In my build thread you can find comparison pictures of it on the XJ and the MJ. In the thread I mention it only sits at a downward angle but I was wrong and need to correct myself. It does sit normal with small spacers used on the A-pillar holes. I will post better pictures tonight so you can get a better idea of what I'm talking about.

This is very true. It really come down to how long do you want the truck down for and how much money you want to spend at one time. It's always good to "kill 2 birds with 1 stone" or in your case many birds.. But like Pete said, those bolts like to break so be careful.

Yes. Pull your driveshafts off, drop the crossmember, and then lower the transmission down. It should go low enough that you can get to the freeze plug from underneath. Just be aware that if your motor mounts are original, there is a decent chance this twisting will cause them to fall apart, so you may want to have replacements on hand just in case.

I had some time over the weekend to get some work done on the truck. I was able to get the bumper painted and mounted. It sits just slightly off center but you can't tell unless you really look for it. Overall I really like how it turned out. I'm currently working on the wiring for the lights to go on it and will be mounting them soon. I have been emailing a couple driveshaft shops and got a quote of $100 to shorten, balance, and replace the u-joints on the rear shaft. That's cheaper than I planned on so more money to be spent elsewhere! Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

For the 97+ doors you do have to change the door striker over (search 97+ swaps for info) and you would have to use the 97+ door panels because the doors are completely different on the inside. The door wiring harnesses cannot be swapped between 97- and 97+ doors either since the lengths of wire are different.

Does it currently have power doors? If so you can do this but there is a lot of cutting and splicing of wires. Nothing plugs directly in AFAIK. As far as adding power to a non power truck, idk how that would work or if the trucks wiring would be set up for power doors at all.

This truck is back on the road and driven frequently. Still has stuff I want to do but it is largely complete.

Major progress has been made on this truck. The axles have been swapped to 98 XJ Dana 30 and C8.25 with 3.55 gears, has a 4.5" Rusty's lift, DIY Dirtbound Mojave Prerunner bumper with fog and flood lights, and now runs! Still a lot of work to go but should be on the road soon. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Yeah I made sure all the wires are the appropriate sizes and I'm making sure my wiring is done properly to avoid a short. As long as the switch itself doesn't short it should be fine.

Bet you can get it for much less than $25K. If it floats your boat...GO for it. Lol I still not gonna buy it.

Welcome to the club! VERY nice looking truck, wish mine was that clean. I can tell you that after it's lifted you'll never bring it back to stock. It is simple to go back but you won't want to. Also those wheels aren't original. The Eliminator wheels are bullet holes just like that but they have rivets around the edges. Those came off of something else. If you want tasteful mods I would only consider ones that improve performance but look and feel stock. To me that includes minor lift, little bigger tires, and then really only small things that you can come up with like new bedliner and undercoating, upgrading the electrical under the hood, etc. People's opinions of tasteful will vary from person to person. That is a very nice truck and I'm glad you don't want to go chop it up.

Honestly the more I look at it the more I like it.

In my opinion it's ideal to fuse them separately, but it is common to do this. Watch your terminology here; good switches draw nothing. The relay's coil between 85 & 86 should be the only "draw" in the switched circuit and yes, at 60-120Ω at ~14v it'll be less than 1a of current. It all looks good, go for it! Ok thanks for the clarification. It makes sense to run the switch on the ground side and I will definitely do it that way if it's not illuminated.

So if I am understanding this correctly I should run power to 30 and 85. Run 86 to switch+ and switch- to ground? Basically switch the ground wire out of 86 instead of creating a whole separate circuit for the switch. What would I do with the switch signal wire then?

Sorry I forgot to mention it, yes both switches are illuminated. I used the diagram that came with the Aftermarket switch as reference. I did see some diagrams online that used the ground side but I figured the diagram with the switch was the correct one to use. Knowing that it's an illuminated switch, it's okay that the switch is powered and grounded correct? Sorry I'm not super knowledgeable using relays.

So I am running an auxiliary fuse box for my accessories and am working on the wiring. I have put together some wiring diagrams for me to keep track of the wires and these should help you to visualize what I am dealing with. My main question I have is if it is okay to use the same fuse to run both the power to the relay and to the switch. You will see in my diagrams that I have it wired this way. Sorry about the color changes but the wiring changes color a couple times. This first one is for the fog lights. They are a pair of 6" 1amp 18watt LED lights. The switch I am using is an aftermarket rocker switch designed to look like a factory XJ switch. I can't find any info on the power draw nor will the seller I got it from respond to emails. I can't imagine that it has much power draw and feel safe assuming it may draw like 1A at the absolute most. **Please correct me if I am wrong** Assuming it is 1A, I should be fine running a 5A fuse to run both the lights and the switch (the 10A in the diagram is just what I had on hand). This one here is similar to above but running a single 20" LED bar rated at 126W and 10.9A. For this one I plan to reuse the factory rear defrost switch to control the light. I am also assuming that this switch will draw at most 1A. **again correct me if I am wrong** In this case a 15A fuse should be enough to support the light and the switch. This last picture is of the auxiliary fuse box and what I have so far. Not sure if this is necessary but may help you guys understand my setup. So like I said above, my questions are (keep in mind this is a 97+ truck) - Is it fine running 1 fuse to control the switch and the lights - Am I safe to assume an aftermarket rocker draws less than 1A - Am I safe to assume the factory rear defrost switch draws less than 1A - Any other input on this wiring is greatly appreciated!

I really think that whoever buys this is going to do it just because they have $25k laying around and want to say "I've got a widened xj" At least that's the only reason I'd buy it. I don't see any practicality at all. Wonder what the DOT would say at an inspection.

I don't really know what to say. Looks like a humvee or a bad photoshop but it would be nice to have the extra room. I'm wondering how the unibody is held together and if it has an actual frame under now too.

I just went to Napa and had some hose cut. They have varying sizes of fuel hose. I would still try to find a proper replacement first.

No PDC on a Renix. Good point, completely forgot.