Dzimm

OK so they say they owned it for 17 years, then later on say 18 years. Also it shows salvage title but then later it says clear Virginia title. They really need to make up their mind.

The one near Phoenix has been updated with pics. Asking $5500: https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/6100979955.html How often do you see 2 diesel MJs for sale at the same time? It would be nice to see at least one of these go to a CC member. Don't forget about the rusty one in Des Moines. That makes 3.

Nothing a little duct tape couldn't fix. Lol. That looks very repairable.

Well I wish I had a progress update but I don't. I was hoping to get my XJ up on craigslist and to get some work done on the MJ this weekend but its been raining all weekend so I'm not gonna get anything done. I have however updated my list of things to do. What I have left to get it on the road: - Fix rough idle/stalling issue - Replace the front brake fittings and bleed brakes - Have the rear driveshaft shortened - Service the axles and t-case - Mount evap box under the bed - Install new steering stabilizer - Adjust NSS properly What I have left I need to do at some point: - Upgrade battery cables and install aux fusebox - Install b-pillar lights - Get some front swaybar links - Get new tires and swap them to the Eliminator wheels - Paint the truck - Probably install Moonvisor unless I can find an MJ one

This is very helpful thanks! That CC thread is making me more confident in a bad solenoid. I will now be doing voltage testing.. Yay...

^This links to a Haynes manual for me now lol. Says no listing available for me.

I think the number one thing to know is that it will take more than a few days. If there is anything I've learned on my build is that there is always something that makes it take longer. Like DirtyComanche said, replace what needs it as you find it.

Yes the MJ is a great truck for what you are looking for. It is easy to work on and very reliable. For a beginner it will take some time to get used to but thats gonna be the case with any vehicle you choose. With the availability of parts for these, since they are almost all interchangeable with the XJ, this is probably the best match for what you are looking for. If you do accidentally screw something up, you can easily and fairly cheaply find replacement parts (every junkyard I've ever been to has at least 3 different XJs). Here is one question to ask yourself, how many 20+ year old blazers/s-10s do you see? How many Rangers/broncos do you see? How many XJs/MJs do you see? There is a reason for it. The XJ/MJ platform is time and time again rated towards the top for reliability. I would 100% recommend someone to start on this platform and work from there.

Yes I have done that. Would that affect 4th gear though? maybe it`s not "slipping"more like it`s kicking down to 3rd gear as soon as it shifts to 4th... anyway if shifting manually is ok then the TCU is the culprit... But it shifts into 4th gear and I can hold a constant speed, its only when I am accelerating while in forth gear. And yeah I was thinking the TCU as well but how could I have 2 TCUs that cause the exact same symptoms but 1 worse than the other. Is there any other point along the electrical system I should be checking or is it one of those, follow and inspect every inch of wire kind of things. I was also thinking maybe a bad solenoid, which could make sense if it is doing like you said and actually downshifting and then quickly upshifting again. Is there a good way of testing solenoids without dropping the trans pan?

Yes I have done that. Would that affect 4th gear though?

I looked for my old post about this but couldn't find it so I'm just gonna start a new one. My 98 XJ AW4 has been slipping/clunking in 4th gear for a while. I can accelerate to whatever speed I want in 3rd gear but as soon as it shifts to 4th, I cannot accelerate without it slipping but I can hold speed just fine. A couple days ago it got to the point I unplugged the computer and just drove it with 1,3, and 4th gear manually and have really been looking into this issue. Here is what I know. - With the TCU unplugged, it drives fine in 1,3 and 4th with no slipping at all. - With my TCU from my MJ project makes it slip MUCH worse than the original TCU. - When accelerating moderately heavy in any gear with the TCU plugged in, it hesitates like I'm not getting fuel or something and I can hear a jingling noise from the rear end. - When accelerating heavily in any gear with the TCU unplugged, it sometimes hesitates and makes the noise like above but not as frequent. - I have done 1 fluid change on the trans and am planning on doing a few more. - I have already changed the TPS with my spare one and it made no difference. It seems to me that I likely have 2 problems that may be linked somehow. One being that the Trans has some sort of electrical issue that I am not sure how to proceed with, and two being that my fuel pump of only 1.5 years is likely having issues. I would really appreciate any input on this as it is very frustrating and being my DD I really don't have the ability to just tear everything apart. :wall: :wall: :wall:

Do you plan on doing the rest of the 97+ swap or were you just considering it for more room? It would be a pain in the arse to try and manage using the older column electrical with 97+ everything else.

This power seats are quite a bit taller. My head would be through the roof. Lol

I've always found it easiest to just use a crescent wrench as it usually fits in the spaces better than a regular wrench or socket and ratchet.

Alright I got all the important dimensions I could think of. I went ahead and made a diagram to hopefully better represent the dimensions. Sorry if it is a little confusing but it is the best I could do in a short time frame. Here is the side view of the interior from the drivers side. Here is the diagram I made based on this angle above. And here is a view seen from the drivers point of view. I've got about 3" of room from my knees to the dash and about 1.5" from my legs to the steering wheel. Keep in mind that these are the leather Limited XJ seats (larger than MJ or other trims of XJ) and the front of them is directly above the front seat bolts in the MJ and this is carpeted so without carpet you would gain another .5" to 1" of room on the floor. Also I am 6'4" and not skinny. It is fairly comfy but on long drives (2 hours or more) I would probably be getting uncomfortable. Edit: Forgot to mention that this is also a tilt steering wheel and it is all the way up.

I bought the 86 last night. Its no where close to drivable, it's missing parts too. The title is "less than clean". Here are the parts I need for the 89: Front driveshaft Rear Bumper Brake booster Emergency brake assembly Windshield Window regulators / window wings Shift console / inner shift boot Miscellaneous dash / interior parts Window washer assembly Transfer case linkage Instrument panel switches Fender flares Back window catch Tail lights Ok so what do you need to finish the 86? Is it possible to buy a single donor XJ and use that to save/fix both? At least mostly? If so then I would go this route.

This will all also depend on what interior package you originally had to compare to. Bench seats generally offer more room than buckets as well. I'll take measurements quick and post them.

Lol. I've always wanted to make a sticker that says "you bring the rice, I've got the burner" and slap it on someone's ricer. Or go simple, "free rice"

Slow and loud perfect :P haha. If i put in a dual exhaust then put a fart can on each, is that double the power or quadruple the power? Depends on how many Turbo whistles you add to it.

I'm 6'4" as well and 350lbs so not skinny but I'm also not a huge guy (everyone thinks I'm in the 250 range). I did the swap and it is tight to get my right leg under the steering wheel but once in it I'm fine. It also depends on the seats. I have the leather XJ seats that are a little bigger so I'm up higher and farther forward than normal MJ seats. The dash itself sits a little farther out but I would say he would be fine. If you like I could take some pictures with a tape measure of the distances to give you a better idea.

What parts are you missing?

Well I got some more work done on the truck this weekend. I was able to get the new trackbar installed. For some reason I didn't take a picture after it was installed so I'll take one next time I'm under there to do the steering stabilizer. I ended up having to get a new trackbar mount since the one I had was so rusted and seized up. I paid a visit to 90piosport99 to pick up a new bracket for it. That one was still pretty rusty but I was able to get the old bar off and get the bracket cleaned up pretty good. My lower trackbar flag nut is long gone and what was on there was a standard nut. If you are familiar with how little access there is to the nut you'll understand why I didn't think I could get to it. I was gonna do it when I first installed the lift but couldn't figure out how to get to that nut but this weekend I did find a way. I'm sure many others have found this before but I thought I'd share. There is a slot on the side of the bracket that you can get your open end wrench in sideways and then turn it into position. It worked great. They aren't the best pictures but it shows how tight of a space it is. The brake hardiness across the rear axle are now installed as well, again no picture yet. I had to hose the dogs off today after their adventure to the creek so I decided to push the truck out to wash it off and I snapped a few pictures as well. The lighting is much better outside the shed. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

All this talk about these expensive tools breaking and not worth a damn.. I'll stick with my Harbor Freight goodness. Even if/when a tool breaks, they have lifetime warranty like all the "high end" brands.

Refer to the "forum probems" section. The instructions are in there.

Lol the bed mount is always an option. Maybe PM saveevryjp1998 on here. He's been through quite a few yards recently hunting MJs so he may have a tank in good shape or at least be able to get you one. ya my only prob with the bed mount is here in south texas all my damn fuel would evap out, hell i left the new tank in the sun an hour and burned my self picking it up. if i can cut this corner off of this sump ill call it a day and run that, I'm WAYYYY to far in the red funds wise in the tank situation to put any more money in it.... problem is even with my small hands getting enough force with tin snips in there isnt easy Well for now bed mount it and throw a sheet of plywood across the front half of the bed to keep the sun off the tank until you can get a better solution.