Dzimm

Due to the long wheelbase of the MJ you won't need an SYE. Maybe a small tcase drop but that comes with this kit. This is the exact kit I got. I upgraded the shocks to the next tier tho and love them. It's a very well built kit. Below is some pictures of my kit with the upgraded shocks.

I spent a lot of time researching this as well. The only complete kits for the MJ I could find were from Hell Creek and Rusty's Off road. I ultimately went with the Rusty's because it came with a few extra things for about the same price. Both are pricy but very well made. Just remember that XJ leaf springs are different and rear XJ parts net less than advertised lift. The front is exactly the same as the XJ so you get the same results as an XJ up front.

Hard to say if you are doing anything wrong without more information but make sure you don't tighten any other bolts until they are all in. If you do, it will bind and be almost impossible to get the last bolt in. I would also recommend installing both uppers and then move to the lowers. The uppers are harder to access so do this first and the lowers will be much easier. It takes a lot of wiggling but it will all come together.

You need both lines in order for the trans to function. One is an inlet and one is an outlet. You may be able to weld that broken piece back on IF it is in one piece but that would be extremely hard to make work and likely wouldn't last. Your best bet is to hit the JY and find a used aw4 from an XJ and swap it in. They can be found cheap and are everywhere. To make the install easier, look for a similar year to your truck. Any aw4 will work (in 98 they added a second speed sensor. You could use one of these as well but just leave the input speed sensor as a dummy plug). You will probably need to swap sensors from your current trans to the new one everywhere else tho.

Well in the last few days I've decided I no longer want to do orange for the color. I really wanted to do a burnt orange like the Chrysler "Mango Tango" but that just isn't gonna happen in my budget I want to spend on paint. I liked the shades of orange I tested but I think they would be just too bright on the truck for my liking. I have now chosen Rustoleum's "Deep Blue" as the new color. This is a picture of the tailgate just primed and painted right over the orange with no prep. I think it looks really good, and with the proper prep work, it will look even better. Sorry the lighting is funky with the angles and dents on the gate. It looks better in person. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Here's some pictures of the deer damage. It's hard to get good pictures of. There is a crease behind the lock and the rear part of the rear door is formed to the inside framing of the door. As for the mirror it pulled the metal out instead of breaking the mirror like I said above. And of course the intake I'm waiting on for the truck. It says for 91+ but I'm gonna make it work in my 90. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Well it's been a while since Ive done anything with the truck. I've been busy with things on the other two XJs, including hitting a deer with the black one. Don't worry it only dented my drivers side doors and somehow bent the metal behind the mirror and didn't break the mirror. Don't know how thats possible. I have been thinking about the MJ and how bad I want the thing on the road. Ive come to the conclusion that my issues with it are due to the fact that it still has the renix flexplate in it. Stupid me didn't realize it. I now have to pull the tranny again and I'm not excited about it. I've also decided that I think I want to go a dark blue instead of orange for the paint. Orange is a little too loud I think. And last but not least, thanks to the latest Bleepin Jeep video for showing they exist again, I now have a gen 3 THOR cowl intake in the mail.

I would think if that wad the case I would have other issues too. But no I have no idea what it has for pressure. I'll look up what it takes to check that too.

I've already cleaned the connectors but I'll do it again just in case.

Yeah I think instead of all that work I'll just use some jb weld or similar to "glue" the tab of the speed sensor on. Let future self deal with it. Lol

OK whole new problem now. I went to take the iss off and the bolt immediately snapped. What are the chances that it stays in without a bolt? Could I just put a dab of rtv on the edge of it to hold it on?

This is exactly why I try to do everything myself. Anymore it seems people are just trying to get more money. Don't trust other people to do anything to my vehicles anyway. Any time I have to go to a shop for something, I ask to go in and watch or I sit at the window and watch everything they are doing. I always get the over the shoulder looks from the mechanic like 'why the hell is he watching my every move' lol.

Speed sensor?? I wouldn't think that could cause anything like this.. Lol. I'll pull the one of my MJ and see what happens.

OK so I've been troubleshooting my trans issues for months and am finally at the point I'm about to say screw it and be done trying. This is in my 98 XJ 4.0. What is happening is when it gets into 4th gear, it will cruise fine but if I try to accelerate, it starts to slip and grab. Feels like the gears shifting hard on an old mountain bike. As soon as I let off the gas a little, it stops. I can maintain speed in 4th fine, just can't accelerate. All other gears work fine. What I have done already: - unplugged to the TCU and drove it manually. Shifted and drives fine without the TCU plugged in. This tells me it's an electrical issue. - tried a second, known good, TCU. This resulted in the same symptoms but worse for some reason. - did a few fluid changes. - replaced the solenoids and filter - removed and cleaned the NSS, which was a problem to begin with (no reverse lights). This is now back in and functioning as it should. - it has a new, parts store, CPS. This was replaced after an unrelated no start issue. About a week or so after the no start issue was resolved with the new CPS, the trans started acting up. What is strange about all of this is that after each thing I tried, it ran fine for the first drive. After that, the symptoms came back. After doing all this work it has gotten better. I can accelerate slowly and it doesnt slip and grab nearly as hard as before but it still does it. What I'm wondering is what else to look into. Does the CPS have anything to do with trans function in 4th? Could the CPS function fine for everything else and only affect the trans function? Am I doomed to searching every inch of wire associated with the trans for a short? Could it possibly be a mechanical issue that for some reason goes away when the TCU is unplugged? Any sense of direction at this point is appreciated. It makes me sick seeing the weeds grow up around it while it sits, waiting to be DD'd again...

Unfortunately I haven't found a source yet that is giving CFM specs on these fans. In that case I would pass on them. If they don't rate the cfm, usually that means they are pretty low. Once you can get an idea of what the cfm is, then pull the trigger. Idk what the cfm of the factory electric fans are. That would be the first thing to research because you want to make sure you get an equivalent cfm or better than factory.

Get it out of California and it can be retitled. Just has to be inspected and you have yourself a nice prior-salvage title. It looks super clean. If I were you, I'd grab it.

The higher the cfm the better. If one is rated higher get that one. If not, just take your pick. The number of blades doesn't really affect anything if they are similar cfm.

Same here. I have a huge head and the adjustable ones just don't fit me right.

Well after doing a few things that needed done on the new xj, surviving the literal 9 days straight of rain, and the long weekend... I finally had some time to work on the truck again. Tonight I was able to get the passenger side shock installed. It went on much easier than the drivers side. I was also able to get the coil spring retainer clip installed and got the brake line fitting replaced on that side. Last but not least, I got the steering stabilizer installed. I decided to put the rustys window decal on the shock because I originally thought it was a sticker for it, and I like it better there than on the window. Next up is an oil change and swapping the throttle body from my white XJ to see if any of those sensors are affecting the no/rough idle. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Which radio is this one again? Got any pics of it? I'm interested.

Yeah same. All ya need in Iowa is a BoS or the title to move it around with no tags. You can drive it around for 30 days with no tags as long as you have insurance.

Same here. Simple and I already know how it works.

I've used junkyard GM fuse boxes from thelate 90s a couple times now for the interior (not sealed). The terminals are easy to remove and replacements are easy to find so it can be neatly re-purposed with little to no cutting & soldering. Are the XJ boxes sealed?No it isn't. You could probably make it sealed if you wanted to but really it's not all that likely to get water inside the fuse box unless you take your truck Scooba diving or get aggressive with the hose while cleaning the engine. I do understand the purpose of a sealed box and it definitely would be nice to have but I'm not too concerned about it, especially given that the primary box isn't sealed either. It's good to know GM boxes are an option for an Aux box. When searching for a replacement I found it hard to find suitable donors that had enough standard sized relays. I was lucky to happen upon the XJ one. It was definitely easy to modify, I just reused the original wires inside the box and soldered my new ones directly to them. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

I found an early 90s XJ fuse box to run as my Aux. It's got tons of fuses and normal sized relays so your not limited to only a few slots. I payed I think $30 or so for it, much better than the Aftermarket prices. It also fits nicely on the drivers side fender beside the airbox and master cylinder. Check it out here. About halfway down the first page. http://comancheclub.com/topic/52259-my-just-another-97-swap/

There really isn't going to be anything in the factory PDC that could or should run an entire Aux PDC. What you are asking is basically plugging a power strip into another power strip. It can be done but really shouldn't be done. If you really want your Aux PDC to be powered only when the ignition is on, there is ways to do it but you'd have to custom build a circuit to do so. Your best bet is to just run it directly from the battery. If the components running off of it are wired correctly, there should be no current draw when they are switched off. What exactly do you plan to run from the Aux PDC?