Stalfos

Good catch! Think I might've ended up with 1994 while thinking about that 2014 wrangler. Anyway, to correct, it's a 1992, 4 cylinder, apparently not 4wd if that helps at all. Regarding the mount pattern, I think some more questioning may be in order. My understanding is that he mounted one of the wheels on his truck while doing a brake job last weekend however I wasn't witness to it. He made it sound like everything fit and the only issue was just body clearance. I think I'm going to have to pay him a visit and see what's going on for myself. If he actually did get the wheel mounted, I'm curious to see how and furthermore it might be a good time to stop a bad idea before it becomes a real problem. Thanks for the info Eagle! I'll do a bit of probing and check back in once I've clarified with him.

Hello all, well, as the topic says, I'm helping a friend out who owns a super clean 1994 comanche. His wife drives a 2014 wrangler, she just got new rims and tires, basically leaving the old stock setup (with tires that have like 10k miles on them) to rot. My buddy wants to put the stock rims from the wrangler on his comanche and I'm trying to figure out what he'd need to do to manage that. I've been doing some digging and unfortunately this is ALL greek to me. I've searched, I've read, I've looked but it's just not something to learn overnight, especially considering I'm a sports car guy. When I think suspension it usually ends up with a vehicle 2" closer to the ground, not 6" higher! As far as I can tell the stock rims off the wrangler are 17's, tires are 255/75s -- Calculators say the outside diameter of these guys is something like 33" but please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. All that having been said, what exactly would it take to fit that setup to the comanche..? I've been reading about body lifts vs suspension lifts, etc and without a good gauge of necessary lift, figuring out which direction to go is difficult. If it helps, the truck is basically just a work vehicle, no rock crawling, no "off road" unless you count poorly paved job sites and the crap roads in seattle. I'm sure he'd like to retain as much drivability as he can, specifically as little change to turning radius, etc as possible and of course nothing should rub at lock in either direction. Hopefully someone has some input -- I figured this would be the best place to ask rather than wasting a bunch of time and money and having to eat the cost of stuff that I suggested that didn't work. You know how it is... Anyway, please feel to provide any input if you wouldn't mind, bad or good. Either way, it'll be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!