Dzimm

That's the thing I don't have a light at all. I'm looking to add a cargo light/brake light combo.

Ironically enough a lot of people around here have smoked lenses and the cops don't seem to care, just want the lights to function. I think I may have found my best option. It's got a flat back to it and a clear lens but the housing is black so it works for my color scheme. I just wish I knew how tall it was. The listing doesn't state the dimensions but I would assume it's like 6"x1"x1". Would it look weird sticking off the back of the truck that far? Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

That's what I'm looking for, it needs to be flush across the back and only requires small holes for screws and wires. The chrome doesn't work for me so I'll have to keep searching. I'm looking for something with a smoked lens as my truck will be orange with black trim. I figured there would be someone here who has done this before and not wanted to cut a huge hole for the backs of the light housings.

Well I am doing the 97+ conversion so it will look newer. But either way anyone have a solution for the light that doesn't require cutting a huge hole in the truck?

Right I know they can't give me a ticket, I just don't want be pulled over every day and have to explain its a cargo light. Its easier if I just do the third brake light combo but I really don't want to cut a huge hole in the truck to clear the back of the lenses. I'm okay with a few small holes.

I wish! But sadly no. Maybe at some point I'll have the funds and time to search for one but for now I need a solution for a third brake light/cargo light that mounts directly to the truck. I'm not as concerned with the third brake light but if a cop around here sees a light up there he will assume it's a brake light and I will be pulled over when it doesn't come on. I'd rather avoid that headache all together and do a third brake light too. Around here they don't mess around with brake lights being out.

So I'm looking to add a third brake light/cargo light to my truck. The only ones I can think of are off a Ranger but they look to require a large section to be cut out for the back of the lens housings and plugs. Even the Aftermarket ones look as though they require a large hole to be cut out. What I'm wondering is if there is an option that anyone knows of where I only need a small hole for the wires and screws to hold it on. I'd rather not cut a huge hole in the back of the truck. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

How are you liking those rubber engine mounts? I just put a set in mine but won't have a chance to test them for a couple months yet. Nice build by the way. Very clean truck!

If you were to do the grinding and weld cleanup yourself it should take about a day to do just due to the cooling of the parts so they don't warp. If you have them do the grinding and cleanup I would say 1.5 days if they don't milk it to 2 days for extra $. If you can find someone who will do it cheap enough the Dirtbound offroad bumpers are cheap and with code "blackfriday20" I think it is you get 20% off. I just payed $185 shipped for a non-winch diy bumper with all the available add-ons for my truck. They have some winch ones for $250-300. Idk how much longer that code will work though so if youre looking for a cheap route that's what I would recommend.

One advantage, if you are worried about it, is a driver's airbag. Overall it just mostly looks nice and a little more modern. Its really just a personal choice. Oh and you don't have a buzzer when the door is open, just a ding. Around here I do know that most 97+ specific parts are usually cheaper than their 97- counterparts. That may be different in your area and mostly will depend on the yards around you and what they have. Most of the Jeeps around here are 97+ so the parts tend to be a little cheaper.

Here is a picture of the rear most part of the harness And here's one of the front part of the harness. Notice where I cut it to remove it from the truck. I ended up not needing the grommet so that is still there. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

I'm guessing your talking about backdraft's writeup? That is a very good one but is still more on the side of build thread to me. He does well explaining what needs to be done but really only explains way he did it, and just mentions the other options. If you go the route he took for his conversion on everything, then that writeup is all you need, but if you want to go different routes you still have to go do some digging. I'm thinking more along the lines of explaining all the "known" or "common" options for doing everything. I would include things like what work needs to be done, what parts are needed, where those parts can be found and for roughly how much. Unless there is something like this that I can't find anywhere, backdraft's is the most detailed one I can find and I feel that it needs more info to include the other options.

Is there any other fuel tank/pump options for the 97+ swap that anyone can think of? I'm working on a "complete" guide on the 97+ swap for easy reference as I don't think one exists anywhere. What I know of is the XJ pump adapted MJ tank, fuel cell and xj pump, Dakota tank and pump/sender, and the TJ tank (borrowing some info from project ONYX, you will be in the credits shelbyluvv). I've been reading through any and all info on the swap I can and am trying to put all the important info in one place.

Those fit almost perfectly in the spare tire location IIRC. Some people use that location for a secondary tank. Would be awesome to see a writeup of that process, I've never come across one.

Yeah no problem! And if you do go the Dakota tank route and want the 22 gal, hold out until you find one. I called every junkyard around here (about 20 of them) before I found somewhere that had one. Seems like everyone has the 15 gal.

Yeah hillcreek uses all Rough Country parts except for the Springs themselves from what I understand. Yours look really good painted up like that so I thought they were new. And of course that goes over your budget I don't think I've ever heard of anybody finishing a Jeep project under budget! I wasn't planning on spending $1,300 on a lift myself but I want to go the full Leaf pack route. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Yeah hillcreek uses all Rough Country parts except for the Springs themselves from what I understand. Yours look really good painted up like that so I thought they were new. And of course that goes over your budget I don't think I've ever heard of anybody finishing a Jeep project under budget! I wasn't planning on spending $1,300 on a lift myself but I want to go the full Leaf pack route. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

http://comancheclub.com/topic/30755-dakota-22-gallon-tank-and-fuel-pump/page-2 Here's one of the best threads I found for the fuel tank issue if you go the Dakota tank route. Alexias build thread has some good info on this fuel tank/pump situation also.

Your best bet if you want to keep the tank is to use a 97+ fuel pump assembly or try to make the pump and sending unit work on the 90 assembly. From my understanding of it the resistance is reversed between how the old sending units and new sending units read. So you can't (it's extremely difficult and idk if it has ever been done) change it so the resistance is correct for the 97+ gauges. What people usually do is adapt the 97+ assembly to the MJ tank, buy/build a fuel cell, or the route I am taking with mine, use a mid 90s Dodge Dakota fuel tank and pump assembly. The Dakota pump assembly uses the same plug and resistance as the 97+ harness and gauges so it is a direct plug and play and is the correct depth for the tank. There is a "guide" floating around somewhere of what years Dakota tank and pump assemblies to use for that. I will try to find it. Edit: I forgot to mention, I have heard that the older comanche and cherokee pump assemblies are actually backwards of each other so don't buy a full assembly expecting it to fit. Just the pump itself may work. Someone will chime in with more experience with the older pumps, mine mostly lies in the 97+. I just don't want you going and buying one just to realize it doesn't work.

Nice build so far! I didn't see you mention it before, what lift kit you have? I'm assuming it's from Hell Creek? They are the only ones I know of that have full springs for the manche. I'm going with their 4.5" for mine.

I don't like to do anything when it's -25. Just come a little farther south where it rarely goes below -25 but dosent get so hot in the summer. Man there is no way I could do the -25 on a regular basis, absolutely no way.

Be careful doing that. Cops love finding everything "illegal" on modified vehicles, especially if your already doing something "illegal" nice truck though and those are some sweet pictures.

I agree with keyav8r. Move south, problem solved. And you won't get frost bitten nearly that quickly. So hey 2 birds with 1 stone.

That's the point... If you use the idle tach you can get a reading of what the rpms should be at idle and then adjust your tach to match, whether that be by using the potentiometer if it's equipped or by moving the needle to a new location. Judging by how quickly you say it jumps with the slightest amount of gas, it may need replaced all together but you will want to start by trying to adjust it. Don't just replace MJ specific parts "just because." When you do that, they usually end up in the garbage when a simple adjustment is all it needed.

OK I just looked and I definitely have the MJ shaft. After looking at them side by side it is very obvious. I think I'm just going to lift it then hope my shaft fits and if not I will just get it lengthened or shortened. That just puts off getting to finally drive it! Ugh.