MiNi Beast

i run a 4ft firestick. really just ensuring its tuned for whatever whip you get. i ran magnet ones for a bit but i have always hit it off the jeep out on trails. so i have since run a spring mount on my whip and the whip itself is easily removable for garage parking and car washes. i like my cb as over the road i can listen to the truckers tell about accidents and cherry tops along my way. however, now a days less people are running them as a simple set of hand radios work great when you can link 5+ together. makes it far easier to spot others on the trail and install is not needed. but if going way off the beaten path a cb would be nice to have just in case. and like you, i already had it so why not.

its in. draining currently to refill with some type of fluid. i have plenty of gear lube... so need clutch bled and installed. starter need new one, cps install, and few more bolts for slave and cps install. I'm getting ready to play.

with that true, my setup was stock slip yoke style with an spring over install and cross member with 1" tcase drop, so i wanna say i ended going 4* with the lift considered and didnt want to run shims and was incorporating ubolt eliminator setup with also built in 1.5" lift. so with that my driveshaft fit when on level ground and going down the road. however i soon learned, after finally getting out to some trails to flex things out, i flexed out on some power pole piles and my driveshaft came out just a bit to much and broke the slip yoke end and luckily i was able to slide it back in as only broke a partial bit from the end. got it home but next day i found a local driveshaft shop and had then make me a longer driveshaft. about an 1" longer then i used a yj yoke as its a bit, 1/2" maybe, longer and had better u joint clearance on yoke head. here nor there. just measure for flex.

id say 3*. can you bolt the driveshaft in and take a look? pinion will tilt up with hard acceleration, even worse with worn springs , just want it pointing to the tcase that way as it travels up and down its fairly straight and won't bind u joint while flexing. remember you can base it off other axle angle and add some for lift and extended snout.

run a string around all 4 tires with weight on it. adjust per your string. measure corner to corner cross to find square. whats pinion look like weighted? your looking for non binding of u joint compressed and unsprung.

well back to it. i decided to focus back more on the jeep. so back to my shop to work on my things for a while.

i finally got all my figured out and now all led variety.

making my progress. i have to remember to ground out the nss.

trans swap yes. blinker gremlins

ok so acquired clutch line for $90 so now can connect slave and master and perhaps make the clutch work. . rear main seal handled with ease as if i have had to replace it before once or 4 times. Had to source bolts for pressure plate to flywheel and flywheel to drive crank. auto bolts are about 1/2" long and manual with 1/2" thick flywheel needed 1" long bolts. handled. now flywheel be mounted with locktite on bolts and spacer plate/inspection cover behind flywheel. I'm reusing one from the auto(2 pc design) in hopes it will be ok. pilot bearing went in with a little bfh and 19mm socket and a couple hrs in freezer. pedal assembly swapped out and working to hook up master on firewall. was planning on having to swap whole assembly but found just need to pull bolt and just slide in needed pedals and use the longer bolt. worked out better then i thought. taking a bit longer with install as I'm trying to keep track and update as i go and do some vids, blah blah, so i will again have a reference to go back to in another 10 years when i swap something else in.

oh snap.

you lookin legit now.

I like the lack of break up. running smooth. now test it under load.

Thanks for sharing. please enjoy and have fun with this project. keep it logged here however you want. then you will always have a journal of your jeep adventures, and not to mention a guide for what you have fixed on it, i refer 8 years back when i first swapped for an ax15 swap in place of my aw4 dog. i do miss my 2dr XJ, but i will always love my door-less MJ. more pics the the better, less i have to read...

cv shafts be better. swap a set in.

looking poster ready!

oh snap.

i have to read...

make an offer or stfu. personally think he is under the best price for this piece. give considerate crictasim and support for your issues or say nothing at all. nice work indeed. i found a old hurst handle to make into mine. great idea.

no problem chicka

first one i found that should give you the idea.

yeah in my build journal.

kick panels best spot vs door speakers if going to have removable doors. i did however remove the ebrake set up behind drivers kick panel, but have installed a set of 51/4 just to get a bit more treble to go with all the bass behind the seat with the amp. honestly the radio was the easiest to install in the mj. even if had all speaker wires missing. i installed the radio and ran my speakers wire from there to where i wanted them. allows for better wire and relocate speakers to better fitment per my desire. if want to cut door panels then do it. use a string and youll get a perfect circle. measure twice cut once

4wd is overrated