Pete M

be super careful with the bolts that you'll have to remove to install drop brackets. they are known for snapping.

my phones over the years.

you definitely need to do an official wrietup on the tail housing mods!

I always suggest longer links rather than the drop kits.

truth but now it's done.

1x1 square tube?

a pic of the bathroom, but not the garage. I'm guessing those are pics from the selling website?

yeah, they are a very annoying invasive species. down south we have a new invasive spider that seems to like them.

an icon for sure.

knowing how to fix an appliance means you're doing something right in life

you should put a winch point at the top of the hill for emergencies.

my film SLR was younger than this brick. it also takes what they call a "Memory Stick" which was a defunct Sony-specific card. a whopping 64mb version was included with this camera.

man, that really pops!

not my photo, but one of these bad boys fell into my lap. now I just need to find a floppy! and what I'm photographing better be within range of a cord, because that battery is loooong dead.

take a sawzall and trim the entire assembly off and then you'll have way more access. the inner flare might actually be harder to find intact. at least for southern guys.

I would pull the rubber belt trim though.

yup. rust sucks. wait, is that damage from tire rubbing? if the flares are ruined, it might not be worth trying to retrieve them.

the longer you let the engine sit before tackling this, the less oil will drip on your face while you're trying to work. I prefer at least a day. scraping off the old pan gasket sucks. I used a straight razor blade for the bulk of it, then an sos style pad for the rest. buy 2 seals so you have a backup on hand if anything goes wrong. return if unused. you need some separation between the body and front axle to get the pan out. either a lift kit installed, or jack up the body. you'll want a brass punch to push the upper half of the seal started. then pliers to pull it down and out I prefer to let the silicone stuff cure overnight before starting up the engine. I imagine there are a few youtube vids covering it

those studs like to snap even if the truck is rust free. I find it faster to just tighten them. it snaps off quicker.

belt chirping? that might not show up with a stethoscope. another method is a 3' length of tube. put one end up to your ear and probe around with the other. don't let it touch anything though.

the front crossmember is a piece of tin and barely does anything anyways. I don't really see any damage to the frame horns. looks like the crossmember just tore. what's the measurement between the frame rails? I'd be tempted to just bolt another bumper on and drive.

the louder it is, the closer you are. generally speaking.