Pete M

ah, flying cars. the perpetual solution looking for a problem to solve.

last I checked it was 19* out with a strong wind here near atlanta. Tonight is going down to 8*! I'm house sitting for friends and their home is insanely drafty. spent the morning caulking windows. lol. I've been in crappy cabins that were better suited to the cold! good thing is they have a gas furnace. I'm about to go run out and check on my folks (heat pump plus wood stove) and probably chop up more wood. at least the snow missed us. how is everything with you guys?

nice!

the MJ unibody is plenty strong for anything you can throw at it. (non rusty of course) high-centering happens way more often than you might think with mild trails. but then the real question is: will that extra inch make a difference? probably not. I'm not actually stuck, I just parked for a photo. but it was the most relevant pic I could find.

aside from losing that inch of ground clearance? all depends what you're doing with the truck.

cars may look bland today compared to the oldies, but every gen had the same thing going on. today's themes just happen to be aerodynamics and ergonomics.

each generation of cars looks the same to me. manufacturers copy what sells until someone comes up with something new that sells, and then they all copy that.

um, so back on topic, Nathaniel is printing various colors of the regular side markers. not for sale yet, but if they work out I imagine it wouldn't be too much a stretch to do waggy lights.

I use this little guy. way less of a chance of sparking yourself

86 was the only year for the MJ 2.8L be sure to get the truck into the Registry so you can get a build sheet, birthday and selling dealership. 84-86 are the most direct swap. 87-90 are more common and will also work with some mods to the speedo clip on the back. should be a writeup in the link in my signature.

moved to tech.

car-part.com might be able to help find the crossmember.

33s usually need more lift. especially if they are fat ones.

gotta get into the harness and see where the wire has broken/corroded.

anything is possibly with enough time and money and welding, but yeah, that's a serious amount of weight there.

that seems logical, but I would try it before reclocking. or find an AX-15 crossmember.

the AX-15 has a 1" dip in the middle. all others are straight across the top.

hypothetically speaking we could eventually lose them out of future generations, but the problem is that it's no long darwinism since if the 4 teeth are ever a problem to someone, we simply pull them. being born without them isn't the genetic advantage that it might have been eons ago.

good question. in XJs the 4.0 is far more likely to be paired with an auto (making the AX-15 kinda scarce), but the 2.5 is far more likely to be paired with a manual. so I guess diving into the TJ/YJ realm is just less common for 2.5L MJ/XJ owners? but if I had to wager a guess, the wranglers will likely all be clocked in a similar fashion.

I didn't, but I've got a custom crossmember. it's very close but has never made contact. from what I've read the only mod needed for an otherwise factory truck is a couple whacks with a big hammer. but now that I think about it, that might be for guys reusing the Peugeot crossmember rather than the AX-15 one. the AX-15 one has a 1" drop in the middle. the TJ ax-15 shifter was a bigger pain, but that can be overcome with heat and a bit of a re-bend. (or finding an XJ/MJ shifter)

had mine removed back in my teens. wasn't enough room in my mouth for them so they had to go before causing problems.

learn something new every day. turns out I was misremembering which thing was the post-factory add-on. I thought it was the fogs, but it was in fact the cruise control. (which was simply tapped into the brake light wires).

@cruiser54

I'll get it in the morning.