Pete M

I pulled one of my HO speedometers out of the cluster and don't see any obvious way to adjust anything.

are the HO speedos adjustable at all?

any luck?

there are some MJs in this vid

love it even the basket cases deserve some TLC. also, as I'm sure someone will say it so it might as well be me... your grille is upside down.

any moisture indicates you've got a rain leak. gotta track that down before putting the carpet back.

found a photo of one of his walls

yup. I'll get to it someday.

I knew that bed was worth saving

have the sensors been tested?

the amount of air inside such a tiny tank won't do much of anything. I borrowed a tiny tank/compressor for putting up trim and that night used it to put some air in a low tire. took 3 fillups to get it up to 25psi. C02 is stored as a liquid and so when it turns to gas you get far more volume than the liquid.

apparently that's nos dirt on them.

the budget lift of 2" pucks plus lift shackles are sub-200 bucks. don't forget that bigger tires will make the truck feel weaker and regearing to accommodate the tires is a big chunk of change. plus an axle upgrade in the rear. what specific drivetrain do you have? (you should put some basic info in your signature)

see, this is why I don't do technical work on my bad brain fog days. when I say "the sockets all look good", what I mean is that the ground strap is completely missing from inside the front drivers side turn signal. can't look corroded if it's not there!

the water will dry no matter what position the brush is in. gravity matters very little to moisture trapped between bristles. I wrap mine in paper when I remember, but usually I just shape my 2" tapered brushes back to factory specs and sit them down with the brush over the edge of the table. on this subject, I've found the key to longevity and a sharp factory edge is not letting the paint get too deep into the brush and don't use the brush long enough for any paint to dry on it. when I cut household trim I have 2 brushes and frequently clean and change between them.

you're referring to the rear height sensing prop valve (which isn't serviceable and no longer available for replacement) and won't likely need anything done to it. people tend to not like it because they don't understand it and view it as just more work for them. the bleeding procedure for MJs is unique because of that valve, so you'll want to print it up for the shop if you're keeping it. it'll be in the link in my signature. I highly recommend a weight distribution hitch and sway control.

if the booster is original, I'd replace it. preferably with a dual booster, but that's not a direct swap so I'm not sure if a shop will take that on. should be a couple links about the dual boosters in the link in my signature.

when it was new it could absolutely tow 5k. and that's with a stock radiator with an e-fan added. but after 30 years the brake system is now, well, 30 years old so I'd focus on making sure it's up to snuff. most if not all states require trailer brakes at a certain point, usually around 3k#. only an MJ hitch will bolt to an MJ so once you get one, all will become obvious as to how it mounts. (basically it mounts using the frame mounts of the bumper)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/354418151056

a happy ending all around.

what's your budget? what all do you do with the truck? 31s on no lift:

a stitch in time saves nine.