mvusse

I wouldn't mind wheeling Badlands again. Problem I have is lack of time, and lack of money. To tow my truck there and back would cost me about $400 in gas.

This will work if the central axle disconnect on the front axle is disengaged. Since he pulled into his driveway in 4wd, then presumable shut off the engine without shifting to 2wd first, it is still engaged. So he will either have to start the engine, shift to 2wd and turn it off, or remove the front driveshaft, or lift a front tire off the driveway. Why? Because the NP231J made before 1994 does not have a true neutral. In neutral it locks the front and rear driveshafts together. Shifting the transmission into Neutral and the transfer case into 2wd will always work.

There have been a few get togethers at Badlands Offroad Park, and we had one at Pete's house a couple years back. I don't think country wide is going to work. Smaller local ones are easier to organize.

Did they make any XJs that have the 29 spline 8.25 and 4.56 gears? The deepest factory geared 29 spline 8.25" you will find under a Cherokee is 4.10. These are pretty rare, but do exist. My daughter's Cherokee sports one that I lucked into. As for 4.88 gears in a D30, Dana/Spicer never made a 4.88 gear set, They only went as low as 4.56. There is an aftermarket company that offers 4.88 gears but the pinion is freakishly small, which makes for little contact between the ring and pinion gears, which makes for a weak axle. You can get away with 4.10. It will not be ideal, but it will be usable. 4.56 would be better. If you want deeper than 4.56 I suggest you look into a different axle to swap into the front which gets very expensive in a hurry. I used to run 35s on 3.55 gears and now run 37s with 4.10 gears. I just don't use overdrive. With the transfer case in low it has plenty of torque to play in the rocks. My daughter's Cherokee has 4.10 gears with 32s and a reprogrammed ECU. Saying it can be fun smoking a Mustang or Eclipse GT in a lifted Jeep is an understatement.

29 spline 8.25" will withstand a locker, 35" tires and a rear wheel stand while bouncing. That stunt did cost me a driveshaft, though.

The CV shafts are the same length as single piece u joint shafts. The driver side is a direct swap, for the passenger side you need to do the single shaft conversion. I have run one temporarily in my MJ, and my daughter's Selec-trac XJ runs them. Much smoother than u joints.

Not necessarily. Actual balancing beads are small enough to fit through the valve stem. Of course the valve core needs to be removed first. If using Airsoft BBs, then yes, you have to break a bead. As for the bolts loosening, I doubt it. It is more likely that 5 lug nuts loosen rather than 32 beadlock bolts. The legality comes from the wheels not being DOT approved. I don't know of anyone who has actually been pulled over for it, but in case of an accident investigation it is something to be considered

There are few street legal beadlock wheels out there, they are few and far between and extremely expensive. Non of he DIY beadlock wheels, nor even the Staun internal beadlocks are street legal because you have to modify the wheels. The moment you do anything to a wheel except for painting or cleaning it you void the DOT certification. Unmodified Humvee double beadlocks *might* be street legal. They do have a DOT stamp in them, But they also have a stamp that reads "For military use only."

That's the license plate lamp for trucks shipped without a rear bumper. There should also be two square holes for the plastic pieces that hold the screws for the plate.

You remember wrong. According to the manual, my 87 MJ weighs about 400 pounds more than my 96 XJ.

I've had historical vehicle plates on my trail rig since 2012. Normaly pickup truck plates are ~$55/year. These plates cost me $27 and don't have to be renewed until 2050.

I should have taken a picture, but a couple years back I was the last one in a row of five 2 door Cherokees in one driveway.

However, an AX15 from a 4 cylinder Dodge Dakota will fit behind the 2.5/2.8. But these are far and few between.

How can you put a sock on the bottom of the return line? The rubber bushing on the bottom of the return line mounts in a little bracket in the bottom of the tank that would be in the way for the sock.

My current daily driver is a 2.5 with the AX5 5 speed, but the 3.55 gears that came with the original AX4. It's got enough power to get out of its own way, but just barely. 5th is completely gutless, but fuel mileage is pretty decent considering it's a Jeep. In the past I had a 94 Cherokee with the 4.0/AX15 combination, stock 3.07 gears, stock tires. The clutch was more like a switch with about 1/32" travel between fully engaged and fully disengaged, but it had plenty of power. 1st gear was almost useless, though, pulling away from a stop sign I'd shift to 2nd before I was halfway through the intersection. Off road I would take an automatic over a standard any day.

Since I got rid off the bed on Wilbur I also got rid of the stock tank and installed a used fuel cell that was set up for a carbureted engine (circle track). Drilled one more hole for the return line and used an in-line pump I got from Summit Racing for $85. Works like a charm with my 87 Renix 4.0. Don't have the part number for that pump handy, but can probably find it again if I look for it.

"Can be tagged historic"? Ummm, maybe in Maryland, but most states the vehicle needs to be at least 25 years old, and then you are still extremely limited on where/when you're allowed to drive it.

Swap the 97 brake pedal assembly in along with the booster.

TJ shafts are the same as the 95+ XJ shafts. 4.0 ZJ shafts are the same as well. 5.2/5.9 ZJ shafts are CV shafts, but they fit as well. It is what my daughter runs in her XJ, and a buddy runs one in the driver side of his YJ with outer axle seals.

The only stocker friendly place in Ohio that comes to mind is Southington Offroad Park), and that is nowhere near centrally located in North East Ohio. Everything further south is more hard core.

DO NOT GO MOTORCYCLE!!! A friend's son has a lawn equipment store, and hired a Harley Davidson certified/licensed mechanic with a metric crap load of student loans away from the local Harley dealership. After more than two years the kid was still only making $11 an hour. He got his degree from MMI in Orlando.

I doubt the front has sagged 4.5". A stock MJ at normal ride height has neither 4.5" compression left on the front shocks, nor 4.5" between the bump stop and spring seat. No doubt the front has sagged, but there has to be some lift in the rear, whether it be a lift spring pack (bastard or aftermarket), re-arched springs, lift shackles, add-a-leaf, or a combination of these.

I stand corrected and lncommando is right. The brake rotor part number did change between the KJ and KK, but stacking them on top of each other (I work at Autozone, so easy access to parts) they definitely do have the same wheel bolt pattern. So the KK Liberty is still 5 on 4.5".

$40 plus shipping sound reasonable?

I got two of them in OH.