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Dash harness should stay the same, all you should need to swap is everything under the hood. You will also need the transmission cross member and transmission shifter from the Cherokee as well as the front driveshaft and the fuel pump (pump only, not the entire assembly). You will need to have your current rear driveshaft shortened. You should also (but don't absolutely need to) swap over the Cherokee brake pedal.

Both my 87 Mjs had 10" brakes on a Dana 35, one was a Pioneer 4.0/auto 4wd, the other came from the factory as a base 2.5 stick shift 2wd. A friend's 90 Cherokee had a Dana 35 with 9" brakes, my own 94 and 96 Cherokees (both 96s) had 9" brakes on a 8.25".

As of December 31st last year I closed doors to the cabinet shop for good, and am now a manager for Autozone. Selling off some of my equipment to raise funds for a 24x40 garage with 13' ceilings.

It was part of the towing package, but I don't think it was part of the offroad package. I have seen a number of MJs with full skid plates (including gas tank) that had a 35 under it.

I got black vinyl buckets. The seat part is ripped up pretty badly on both, but it's onlynmy trail truck.

SM drastically cut down on the maximum allowed zinc content. SN is not allowed to have any zinc in it as per government specs. The EPA is killing our engines.

Quaker State Defy and Mobil 1 High Mileage also still have zinc in them (API SL rated). Motorcycle oils have more (API SG) as do diesel oils (Rotella).

What year ZJ? abs or no and does it matter regarding fit? Thanks Any year. I think they were mostly used on the V8 models and they all have an ABS tone ring. The ABS tone ring will interfere with some year MJ/XJ unit bearings, but if they do it only takes a few whacks with a hammer to knock them off. I use them on the XJ because it runs a 242 transfer case with full-time 4wd and they are smoother than a u joint axle. Sarah takes it offroad a few times a year (and I have as well when the MJ has been down) and no problems so far. If you have a disconnect axle you will need to do a single shaft conversion on the passenger side to use them. A friend of mine wheels a YJ with a lunchbox locker in the front axle on 33s and he runs a CV shaft on the driver side with no problem yet after about a year.

After swapping to the larger u joints I tried Duralast Gold, Neapco Brute Force, Spicer and Alloy USA chromoly ones. Spicer and Alloy USA are by far the best out of those. I found the Alloy USA ones are not worth the cost of two Spicer ones, as the Spicer ones seem to last just as long. My daughter's XJ runs ZJ CV shafts with 32" tires and has never had a problem with them either. RCVs are mondo expensive, so are CTM Ujoints. For the cost of one CTM joint I bought my Dana 60. For the cost of a second one I converted it to 4 link an mounted it under the front of my truck.

The axle does not need flipped. If you run it upside down, the wheels would spin backwards. Trust me on this. If you don't believe me, take a spare rear axle, spin it around 180 degrees (WITHOUT FLIPPING IT OVER), and turn the driveshaft in forward direction with regards to the direction the truck is facing (which would be in reverse relative to the axle), and the wheels turn the correct direction. If you want to flip it upside down you'd need reverse cut gears and you'll have oiling problems.

1987 Jeep Comanche Bench seat, six cylinder, short box, 2wd, auto, dummy light cluster. Currently resides in the Orlando, FL pull and pay junk yard.

1987 Jeep Comanche Bench seat, short box, six cylinder, 2wd, auto, ac. Build date of November 1986. Resides in the Orlando, FL pull and pay junk yard.

I have always been taught that the solder is not supposed to make the connection. Get a good connection by twisting the (clean) wires together good, then solder it to keep it from coming undone.

x2 on driveshaft u joints.

Also, if you do eliminate the slip yoke, you need to have a slip joint in the driveshaft somewhere. I used to run ~9" lift in the back, one inch longer snout on the 8.25" I swapped in after I threw the D35 away, 1/2" longer slip yoke off a YJ Wrangler, and never had a problem with the stock driveshaft until I bent it on a rock; did the same thing to the next two stock driveshafts. I then had a custom one made out of 3" diamter .188 wall DOM, one inch longer than stock to be a perfect fit. I run a HD SYE and one tons with a completely custom driveshaft now.

The axle does not sit centered under the leaf spring, so the net lift is less than half the extra length of the shackles. 2" Chevy drop shackles will lift a Comanche about 1.75". They also mess up your driveshaft u joint angles possibly causing vibration.

I have a stock 87 2.5 as a daily driver. No mods to the engine, consistent 20-21 mpg mixed driving on cheap 87 octane.

Out of a 1977 CJ, would that not be the problematic two piece shafts in the AMC 20? Front axle is also not of much use to us because it is for a leaf spring suspension.

My offroad one I originally bought for $400, have probably invested about $10k into it, Almost all of ot underneath (drive train and suspension). Daily driver? I'm guessing about $1500 all together.

Napa filters are made by Wix, Bosch filters (Bosch used to own 50% of Purolater a few years back) are Purolater Pur-One. All of these are good.

Strasburg has been at $2.12 for a couple of weeks before it dropped to 2.11 so I filled up the camper. Then it dropped to 2.10..... Drove from Ohio to Ontario this morning, and saw a slew of gas stations in NW Ohio between 1.95 and 1.97, and I filled up the camper again for 1.91. Everything around Detroit was 2.09, but in Port Huron I filled up again for 1.99 before crossing the border. SW Ontraio is around 0.87CDN per litre.

Been $2.129 since Tuesday morning. 5 miles down the road in any direction ranges from $2.299 to $2.359.

When my camper had a Class II hitch behind it I towed my short bed on one of their dollies which according to their calculations was just barely below the 3500 pound hitch limit. I have my own trailer now (and a class IV hitch), so no more u-haul. I believe 89 eliminator hauled hist to an offroad park on a u haul trailer once. Don't know how he fastened it since he sat on 33" tires, or maybe he'd already moved up to 35s by then.

Disconnect the fuel pressure hose, aim it at a bucket and short the fuel pump terminals on the diagnostic connectors under the hood. As long as it is pumping something it will pump out the tank for you.

Go to Autozone and get their fuel pressure test kit from the loan-a-tool program. It sounds more like a timing problem, but timing is not adjustable unless the sprockets are shot and the chain jumped a tooth or more. Before tearing into the engine to check/replace timing chain, it is easier to check (and rule out) fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump first.