mvusse

Pennsylvania doesn't allow any visible rust, They have vehicles on the road just as badly rusted as the ones here in Ohio, Difference is they get a yearly $179 Maaco paint job, or they have aluminum panels riveted over the fenders to hide the rust behind. The Purple People Eater is a typical example of a truck that came from Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh, to be exact): paint over bondo over rust. They never fixed the rust, just bondo'd over it and covered it up with a new layer of paint. Ontario is about the same as Manitoba. Any vehicle bought used from a person other than a family member needs to pass a safety inspection before it can be plated. What all that inspection entails, I do not know. Never bought a car in Canada that didn't come from my parents....

When I installed a heavy duty slip yoke eliminator (for which you have to get into the case just a little bit deeper than just replacing the chain), I did it under the truck; didn't bother to take the case out from under, or even unbolt it from the transmission. Jacked up the truck, set a transmission jack under the cross member, unbolted the cross member from the frame rails and lowered it down a few inches.

I just tested mine (87 MJ) and my daughter's (96 XJ), and neither have a 4 second delay. Turn the key off, them immediately turn the lights off (within 1/2 second even) and the headlights will stay on for a minute or so. No 4 second delay before the timer gets set.

I have seen three separate MJs in junk yards around here, all broke in half betwen the box and the cab. My trail truck is currently parked (and has been for a while now) awaiting repairs to fix the frame in the same spot. Driver side is still solid, but the passenger side ripped top to bottom, across the bottom and back up to the top on the other side. Only the top plate is still intact. Seems to have rotted from the inside out and broke it when I bottomed it out on a boulder.

The 4.0 drive shafts are just a simple tube, no rubber anywhere, and much easier to shorten/balance.

I ran 35s on 6.5" lift and had to cut the rear fender flares some to allow full up travel. Lift helps clear the top of the tire, but a tire is not shaped like a fence pole, it is round. You also need to clear the front and rear of the tire. And you also have to keep wheel width and offset/backspacing in mind as well as tire width. Too much backspacing and the inside of the tire starts rubbing things. Too little backspacing and the front tires follow an arc when steering causing problems with the front and rear of the wheel openings, or in extremes even with the fenders removed with the doors and bumper. Lower backspacing also puts a lot more strain on the unit bearings. My daughter's Cherokee runs 32s and had about 3" of lift with rubbing on the control arms and sway bar during near full lock steering. It is currently sitting at 4.5" and still rubs the same. This is with WJ lower control arms and 16" KJ Liberty rims. It ran 31s at stock height on the stock wheels for a bit but I had minor clearance problems with the rear wheel wells. Mind you, the rear wheel wells on a Comanche are larger than on a Cherokee.

On a transfer case without brass synchros, GL5 should be fine including 75w90. Early 231 cases had a brass synchro between 2wd and 4wd high range, but I think later ones (94 and newer?) did away with it. I also didn't see one in the 94 242 that lives under my daughter's Cherokee.

Autozone has them on the shelf in the trailer towing section for less than that. I imagine Pep Boys, O Reilly's and Advance also have them for a lower price as well.

Are they really that much off the shelf? I always have mine made while I wait at a local rural shop that specializes in suspension and semi truck brakes for a bit over $25 including washers and tall nuts. Any thickness, any length, any axle housing or spring diameter, either round or square.

I should have written down the teeth count. Can't for the life remember me what the ratios were.

There is a difference in at least 1st gear between years, I had an 1988 AX4 when I got the truck, 4th gear synchro was missing (physically not there). I bought a 92 AX5 with shot synchros in 1st and 2nd, but 3rd and 4th were fine. I tried using the 92 cluster gear with the 88 main shaft and it just would not fit together. When I counted teeth on the gears I noticed 1st gear having different ratios for the two. 2nd through 4th were identical, though. And yes, short wheel base would get an ax4 and 3.55 axle gears, long wheel base would get an ax5 and 4.10 axle gears. 4th gear with 3.55 final drive ratio is identical to 5th gear with 4.10. To the AX5 with 4.10 gears had a lower final drive ratio for 1st to 4th, presumably to get a heavier truck/heavier load moving easier. I run an ax5 in a short wheel base with 3.55 gears. 5th is absolutely gutless, but cruising at 75 mph it gets me 24 mpg while 4th (with the ax4) only got me 19.

Last week I filled up for $2.97, now we're right back up to $3.19.

GL3 and GL4 are obsolete and difficult to find. 10W30 is the recommended alternative.

The camp ground at the entrance is not IN the park. Drinking in the camp ground (after you're done wheeling for the day) is allowed. I have always stayed at the campground by the entrance. That being said, if the prices are close to the same and they have a place to park the trailer, I'm not opposed to trying out Summers if that's where people want to stay.

Open. Why, is your thermostat missing?

SKF, Timken, Precision, they all make bearings in multiple plants in Asia. Some are made in Korea, Some are made in Japan, some are made in China. Does anybody produce anything in the USA anymore?

I agree on the Rusty's and Rough Country. Pure junk for both of them. The only things that Rusty's has that are any good are their coil springs.

The fuel pressure at the rail should have nothing to do with the pump. As long as the pump can supply more volume than the engine needs at a higher pressure than the fuel regulator is set at, the fuel regulator controls the pressure and bleeds the excess off through the return line back to the tank. I run a 4.0 fuel pump in my 2.5 because I had it sitting on the shelf and didn't see a point in buying the correct one since the 4.0 one works fine. No difference in how the 2.5 runs. On my trail truck I run a circle track fuel cell to which I added a return line. Since the cell is meant for a carbureted vehicle it has no provisions for a pump. I run a universal external pump rated ed at 70psi with enough flow to feed a small V8. Fuel pressure at the rail is right where it should be and just like the 2.5 with the 4.0 pump, the truck doesn't run any differently.

39 disconnected.......... Oops, typo. I stand corrected.

Supposed to be 31 with the vacuum line hooked up, 37 with the vacuum line disconnected.

And in 1987 they didn't even have a ballast resistor. My stock pump without a resistor lasted more than 20 years. I think it was added more to keep customers from complaining about the pump being too loud than to prolong its life.

My vote goes to August. Badlands is in (up against really) Attica, Indiana. The Illinois border is about 15 or so miles away.

IMO it is worth at most $700 but I personally wouldn't pay more than $600 for it. Too many issues to be worth anywhere near what the asking price is.

XJs with lift springs need shackle relocation brackets or boomerang shackles because a stock straight shackle will hit the back of the bracket when the springs are compressed. The stock springs are nearly straight at ride height, so both up travel and down travel cause the shackle to swing forward but there is very little room for the shackle to swing back as happens when lift springs compress. As to the OP, my stock MJ shackles measure 4.375" long center to center verified by tape measure. I believe XJ ones are 2.75", but that's from memory. The closest one at hand is 4 miles from here somewhere in a pile of parts in my shop.

Under the hood the accessories bolt to their brackets with metric bolts while the brackets bolt to the engine using SAE bolts. Most everything else is metric except lug nuts which are 1/2x20.