mvusse

Doesn't the KK also use the 5 on 5 bolt pattern?

96 was the changeover year. Late 96 was 29 spline, but the only way to tell which axle if it's a 96 is to pull a shaft and count.

On an XJ, pushing the bottom (momentary toggle) is for the washer, and also runs the wiper for three strokes. Pushing the top (stays pushed in) runs the wiper continuously with about a 2 second delay between strokes.

Axles from lwb and swb are identical. The shock mounts are on the leaf spring u bolt plates and between lwb and swb they are simply swapped left to right and right to left.

Toyota axles are strong for their size.

Because the 8.8 is narrower and takes more work to make everything hook up together. They also sell for more than the 8.25". At least around here they do.

The D44 came with the MT package, but it also came with the towing package and could be optioned separately as a "heavy duty rear axle".

Did you post a location and a price as per the requirements?

F150s use the 8.8 also. These should be around67" wide.

Hardware store.

Problem with the 44 is that it still uses the same u joints that were (in my case anyway) failing on the 35. I run 37s now with the D60, and even though I want to go taller at some point in the future, I'm happy with them now.

If it is 8 lug that might have the funky 8 x 170 metric bolt pattern, not the standard 8 x 6.5 pattern that Chevy, Dodge and older Fords use.

Evidently you read better than I do. :doh:

We sell Spectra Premium at Autozone, and I have their radiators in both my offroad toy and my daughter's Cherokee. I believe they are also the OEM for the gas tank.

Nothing really big. Just figured it out one bracket at a time and my welder lives 45 minutes away from me. I started with Ballistic Fab's combo brackets (spring pad/shock bracket/lower control arm bracket in one single package). Driver side outside parts sits up against the cast spring perch, inside in sits on top of the cast. I also drilled and tapped the old perch and bolted on a 3/8" steel plate to weld to also. Used a off the shelf upper control arm bracket on the passenger side with a low bracket on top of a mini truss over the pumpkin on the driver side. Also used an off the shelf offset track bar bracket that I ended up cutting down and drilling lower holes in that tucks up underneath the spring pad. With the springs directly over the axle instead of in front of it like the stock one the axle ends up 2" further forward. I also had to move the frame end of my track bar forward 2" for it to clear the pumpkin when the driver side wheel is stuffed. Some brackets came from Ballistic Fab, some from Ruffstuff Specialties, some from Artec. Used the Iron Rock Offroad double sheer track bar bracket with my old (Teraflex? Bought from on ald vendor on here who is no longer in business.) track bar mounted upside down to have a heim joint on the axle end. Custom made upper and lower control arms. Uppers use a Johnny Joint on the frame end, bushing on the axle end, lowers use a bushing on the frame end, Johnny Joint on the axle. For steering I kept the stock F350 tie rod and drag link with a WJ pitman arm reamed out to accept the larger one ton tie rod end. Also installed a 2001 V8 WJ pump, with the old high pressure fitting from my stock pump drilled out to allow more flow, Dodge Durango steering box modified to have the same stroke as the old stock steering box and drilled/tapped for hydraulic assist, after market transmission cooler for the power steering and a screen/magnet power steering filter from Advance Auto Parts (I work at Auto Zone, but we didn't have anything). Added a steering damper after I had some death wobble, then removed it and added some urethane spacers on the the tie rod ends when I found the only play in the steering/suspension was caused by the tie rod rolling. Rock solid now without DW. Last weekend I bent the Ford drag link into a "U" (cheap enough to replace, new one was $35 minus a 20% employee discount...). The longer WJ pitman arm and modified box still don't give lock to lock steering, so I am currently waiting on a 1977 International Scout Traveler pitman arm. This should be the same as the Scout II and be approx 8.5" center to center on the holes. Also have a 8" stroke hydraulic ram on the way from Surplus Center to take the strain off the drag link. Forgot to say I also installed a Lincoln Locker; for street driving I just unlock the hubs. I run the stock Ford brakes with Chevy brake hoses on the front, matched by the stock Ford brakes on the rear using a TJ brake hose hanging from a custom bracket 6" below the frame with a 1996 Cherokee dual diaphragm booster I swapped in along with the pedal assembly and proportioning valve. Spliced the 87 brake light wires into the 96 pigtail that plugs into the brake pedal switch. Planning to go rear disc again like I ran on the old 8.25". Have not gotten far enough to think about that one yet, but will probably end up with Ford front rotors and Cadillac calipers.

I run an 89 F350 D60 front and a 2nd gen Sterling 10.25 rear. Rear is trivial, front took me 9 months. I run 37" tires on double bead locks but will probably go taller in the future.

His MJ being 86 (if it's the one in his sig) I think he meant AX5. 4.0 was not available until 1987.

You are aware that an AX4 will only bolt up to the 2.5 and the Chevy 2.8V6, while the AX15 will only bolt up to a 4.0?

The aluminum one likes to break when removing the steering box because of corrosion between the steel bolts and aluminum spacer "welding" them together. Bigger tires and front locker *can* cause the box to rip the bolts through the frame rail, though. Ask me how I know. I plated my frame rail with 3/16" steel inside and out. Still run the stock aluminum spacer with one tons and 37s on a welded front diff. Bent the F350 drag link into a U last Saturday but the aluminum spacer is still fine. Some people have run a brace from the steering box to the opposing frame rail to strengthen things up, but I believe Wade (89eliminator) still had problems despite the brace.

Wally World here started carrying Purolator filters as well, but not the premium Pur-One. They also still have the Fram ones they have carried for a long time now.

Definitely make out a police report. When they find the guy, get an body shop quote to have it fixed. Or get a quote before filing the report.

My first custom shaft had a main tube from a 2wd Toyota pick up truck that I had shortened. Used the same 1310 joints our Jeeps use. Second one was 3" diameter 3/16" wall DOM tubing custom made. Still ended up bent when I removed it three years later. Current one is a stock front shaft lengthened 17" using 1/4" wall tubing.

I know I did not mess with the oil filter adapter. It's been a few years, but I do seem to remember removing the filter itself. When putting it back together I stuck the bolt in from the other side.

Only tires I ever bought on-line were from Treadwright.

If it's a D35 you're spending about $130 too much on that. They're only worth $30 as scrap metal, about all they are good for.