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Zenobian_84

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About Zenobian_84

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    Jeeper

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    Tavares, FL

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  1. IMO, I would keep an eye on it; worst case scenario, they are normally available at the parts stores. When I had my stint up at Chrysler for 6 months a while back, I worked on a guy's old 88 who bought it brand new. Was having some of the same issues you described (along with a slew of other issues due to being a Michigan truck for close to 20 years), and found out that the posts inside had a lot of corrosion on it, along with finite cracks on the ceramic assy. itself, causing some intermittent stumbling and rough starting when trying to crank. Replaced that and some of the vacuum lines on the
  2. I wish; worst case scenario, I'll clean it up and throw some sealant on it. Was told that the rubber seal around the glass was cracked and frayed from the FL summertime sunshine. I assume that's why the duct tape was put there to "seal it". Like I said, I haven't pulled the tape, because I didn't want the water to come streaming in. I'm sure the tube seals are probably clogged as well. Going to scope out the pick and pulls down here this weekend and see if I can find a replacement. If I'm lucky they'll have a WJ and ZJ I can take measurements of.
  3. Zenobian_84

    ZJ Sunroof

    Have had my '95 Orvis ZJ down for a while now doing work rebuilding the transmission, and was going to pull the interior to take a look at what the PO described as an "inoperative, and leaky" sunroof. Was told the gasket failed, as it has reflective duct tape around it, but I have not yet pulled it. Had to fix some of the holes in the roof anyway, and got all the leaks sorted out, (major, anyway). Question is, if the track / sunroof assembly is junk, are the WJ assemblies and sunroofs the same as the ZJ's? I just helped a buddy strip one WJ to put everything
  4. I feel you brother; life is pretty rough down here in the southeast for the dealer guys as well, so don't feel too bad about things out in the west. From what one of the independent tool-truck guys told me about the 5 dealerships he goes to on the weekly, some have "laid off" upwards of 15 people, with more to be out the door soon if business doesn't pick up for this "essential" trade. I work for a non-dealer shop, but worked at both Ford and GM once upon a time, so I know how hectic things can get.
  5. Insanely jealous; those lights are pure sex. I keep kicking myself for passing over a SWB roll bar some years back due to lack of funds... Really just need that to complete my build, along with a factory brush guard.
  6. Back from the land of the living. Proof that I still have this old thing. Gotta take it up to the shop here in the next few days and re-wire the rear license lights. Shoddy wiring from almost ten years ago by yours truly, lol. Back when I was a lot greener with a wrench, besides. Might get the audio in my video struck out, but you can just listen to this while you watch the video if you feel so inclined. It'll have the same effect. Text below is the link to the video. If I could figure out how to embed the file, I would, so sorry about that, chaps.
  7. Thanks guys, it feels good to be back. Didn't mean to be gone after the last time I resurfaced, but life, and mostly work robbed me of a social life and most of my free time. I actually got the idea for the B pillar badges from a few J10's I saw in the junkyard once. Seeing as I don't have 4x4 at the moment, I figured it would be a good fit for them. Even though some purists put the 4x4 badges at the end of the bed.
  8. Lares is pretty good; I've used a few at some of the shops I've worked at when I could convince my service manager to spend the extra money to avoid having comebacks with the "parts house" remanufactured garbage ones that Autozone and O'Reilley's sometimes ship out. Although I would see if you could get a beefy ZJ one; although I'm not sure there's a physical difference, although there is a "high" assist steer option in some of them (longer high pressure lines, not sure about actual increase in turn ratio). Although I'm not sure if that option is for the 5.2's only, or if the 4.0 optioned ZJ's
  9. May seem weird, but it is me, back again from the "near" dead. Been a crazy few years, and I seem to have forgotten my old email and can't access my old account for reasons. So, I decided to make a new one. Hopefully I'll stick around longer this time, and not drop off of the face of the earth again. Last time I got wind of CC news, it was the passing of Jim and Don, so that put a damper on my mood when I learned of it. Still have the '87, although it's seeing far less use these days. Had a good time having it as a DD for nearly a decade, but I finally got another truck to take it'
  10. Been a while since I needed something tech related answered, but this has me stumped. A while back, I went through the effort of fixing the horizontal release cables on my girlfriend's XJ; it seems that her hinges have been replaced by a PO at some point, because her hood opens and closes smooth as silk. Mine used to be the same, but now the hood sits upwards on the driver side when closed. Over the last year or so, the hood seemed like it started to get heavier, like the hinge on the driver side cracked, amd over time, it started to contact the corner of the cowl until one day it
  11. Well, had a weird issue come up. Went to go down to the parts store to grab some things for my Firechicken, and my truck just pretty much died on me. Got inside and went to turn it over, started cranking okay, then I stopped for a second to take a phone call. Went to cranking it back over after about a 5-6 second pause, then everything dies. Cranked over once, now I have no power, no lights, nothing seems to work. Thought I might have blown a fuse, but all check out okay. Went to check the fusible links up front and all seem alright. First time the truck has done this, and I recently
  12. Greetings all; it's been quite some time since I've really posted here to a good degree.I blame that on the normal things; life, new jobs, the MJ not breaking down every other week, etc, etc. However! As with my MJ, I came into possession of a rather unique car, that I have thought to make a build thread for not only for my own sake, but so that one day someone might learn something useful that they wouldn't have otherwise learnt on their own. Well, with that out of the way, I can move onto the good stuff. Now, before I begin, allow me to set the stage with some rather appropriate
  13. This past Christmas, the GF decided to get me a bunch of little doo-dads, one of which being a die-cast model of the Wrangler used in the first and newest Jurassic Park movies. Originally it looked like this, and for being just shy of $4 (IIRC) it was pretty good for being a mass-produced toy model. Now, after a few days of looking at it on my display case (of other nifty models and trinkets) when I'd get home from the shop, I got to thinking that it could be better. As luck would have it, I had other models of cars and trucks that I work on in my spare time, and a good number of pai
  14. Sorry to post this in the MJ tech page, but I can't for the life of me find an answer to this question. I've even talked to a friend of mine who owned an XJ before, and they haven't a clue as to what's going on here with my '92. - - - Bought the truck from a PO who told me that the fuses to the parking lamp / interior electronics (Laredo package, power everything, including antennae) needed to be replaced (among a few other odd and end things). Told him no big deal, and drove it home. After a bit of initial finagaling with things, found out that most of the fuses inside the junction bloc
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