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phenryiv1

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    Martinsburg, WV

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  1. Which valves on the Jegs site are correct for the MJ? In particular in conjunction with a WJ booster/MC swap, if that matters.
  2. Well, I ordered the proper fitting for my Motive bleeder and will try this again with the Eagle bleeding procedure (4th, 5th time) but using pressure from a tank versus pedal pressure. Can't hurt and $34 is cheaper than an hour of shop time to pay them to troubleshoot.
  3. I am fine with doing that but I cannot figure how how/why the system worked until I got the hole in the rear line and somehow NOW the HSV is at fault? Not likely, but I don't have a problem eliminating it as Eagle (and others) recommend. Other references: http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/?p=42062 http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/21361-load-proportioning-sensor/?p=224383
  4. At my wits' end regarding this brake issue in my '88 MJ. After dragging my feet for a while I took the opportunity to replace the booster and MC with units from a WJ. (Writeup here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285 ) So after bleeding with the engine off I had good pedal pressure and thought that all was well but as soon as I started the truck the pedal went to the floor. I re-bled with the engine on and still no real braking- it feels exactly the same as when I had the MJ parts installed. I have searched the lines and cannot find ANY leaking anywhere in the truck- no fluid on the ground after 20-25 presses of the pedal with all bleeders closed, nothing came out of any of the lines while the other 3 were being bled. I also used the special procedure noted by Eagle regarding bleeding with the HSV stil;l in place. What am I missing? Any suggestions on where to try? I have pumped at least a liter of brand new fluid through the system and still can't get pressure.
  5. Okay, the check valve is working properly. As for the tests: Test 1 is moot. The brakes won't hold pressure when the engine is running amd as soon as I start the engine the deal drops dramatically. Much more than 1/4" for sure. Test 2 it does build pressure over consecutive pumps. Test 3 is a failure. It takes 7-8 pumps with the engine running to build any pressure. When the car is off the pressure holds. I checked the check valve and it works as a 1-way valve should. I did not pressure test it.
  6. More info: Tried to re-bleed using Eagle's post about opening a front caliper and putting the vehicle in Accessory. I got a little air out but not much. The interesting thing is that when the truck is OFF, I feel like I have normal pedal pressure and the calipers clamp tight to the rotors while bleeding. As soon as I start the vehicle the pedal hits the floor. In my mind this leads to a bad booster, in which case the WJ Booster/MC conversion is a good idea at this time (as opposed to a new MJ/early-XJ booster. Correct logic?
  7. I have been good. The MJ is in a state of minimal inputs because I just don't drive it often. I have a long commute, the truck lacks A/C, and I have to pick up 1-2 kids (who need different child safety seats) each day so the MJ is impractical for a daily driver. I was using it regularly when I saw using it to tow my racecar but I traded the racecar for a different project (which has taken on a life of its own). The battery was replaced this March after a few no-starts when I needed it this winter and right after that I lost my brakes, which turned into the current fiasco. I considered selling the MJ but I like having a 4wd and the utility of a truck but at the same time my parents live on my street and my father has a truck. Having just made an investment in the MJ brakes and fuel system it makes sense to ride it out for a while longer. My daughter wants me to trade it for a YJ so that the whole family can benefit from it but I just don't want to take on another unknown. I know the devil that is my MJ. Picking up a YJ would have many unknowns and as I found with my current project a few unknown factors can become a very expensive investment. Here is what I am working on now: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=316880
  8. The MC has not gone dry but a bench bleed might not be a bad idea. The cost of the WJ setup (MC and booster) is "only" $80 so I am tempted to just throw the money at it rather than to keep investing time in bleeding and re-bleeding. If it is a bad MC, no amount of bleedig is going to fix it anf I am just wasting time & brake fluid. FLuid is cheap but my time is limited. I might give it one more try before I concede that I need a new MC. Ona positive note, if I do the MC swap the MJ community will have a new source for the 1/4" brackets, as I have a small fabrication business and a surplus of 1/4" Lexan.
  9. Weird...I typically bleed the brackets on this every 12-18 months and I have never done anything special with the HSV in the past. HOWEVER I did add MT springs (in place of 26 year old standard springs) since my last bleed so the HSV may be in a different position from past brake work. I'll try either deleting the HSV (per procedures I found on here) amd re-bleed or try the HSV bleed procedure.
  10. So I got it replaced but am having bleed issues. I ended up wiht a hole in the gas tank so that needed to be relaced. It was not obvious until I removed the skidplate but there was a distinctive smell of gas on th einside of the plate. Inspection revealed a small hole in the tank at the rearmost strap.
  11. So here are all of the facts that I can think might be relevant: Line over the fuel tank rusted through. This was th emain line- not the HSV line. Fuel tank had a leak. Replaced line all the way from the MC to the union/T (I can't remmeber which) at the rear axle. Replaced tank and straps. Bled brakes- RR, LR, RF, LF No pressure. Repeat. No Pressure. I am sure that I am getting fresh fluid (I had ATE Blue and switched to Gold) and the pedal only builds pressure after 8-10 pumps. When I was bleeding each line I got solid fluid and a steady stream. I tried on 2 different days just to let my brain reset and to be sure I was not rushing through the bleed procedure. Has my MC gone bad? Any other options to check? If it is the MC I will do the WJ upgrade but after dropping ~$250 on the fuel tank and brake issues I'd sure love to save the money if it is something simple.
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