mvusse

Under what jurisdiction does that law fall under, state, federal? :hmm: I recently discovered that my cat is hollow, but i live in an area with no emissions, soooooo . . . . :dunno: Federal. EPA to be exact.

Is she running bigger tires, heavily offset rims, or wheel spacers? All these things put additional stress and leverage onto the wheel bearings. I assume the feeling your talking about is a rough/course feel as the bearing spins, yes? I am quite surprised to hear you are having such trouble with the Timken units. She runs 265/75R16 (about 32x10.50) on Jeep KJ Liberty rims. Stock backspacing, no spacers keeps the tires completely inside the wheel well. Like I said, as long as she keeps them out of the water they stay fine.

The orange trail is by no means meant to be for stock Jeeps, but with patience, perseverance and a bit of skill (or luck) it can be done only needing an occasional tug. The pink trail I have been told does body damage, there is also green, yellow, white, and (not color) Purgatory. I might even see if I can tackle Purgatory.

Hmmm, my daughter's unit bearings will last months without a problem, but without fail, a week after her taking it off road they will have play in them, and after removing them and spinning them by hand you can feel there's no grease left. And these are Timken ones.

This will get you 3/4 of the way there: http://comancheclub.com/topic/44706-mj-d44-housing-for-sale/

My first time out I had a blast with my then bone stock long bed on the orange trail at Badlands. All it takes is some decent tread tires, tow hooks on the front and some sort of recovery point on the rear like a 2" hitch receiver. If I do make it out to Badlands again, I'll probably be up for tackling the pink trail now that I'm built a little larger, as long as I can find somebody else to run it with me.

I ended up going with a Sterling 10.25". It has been under my truck for over a year now without issues. Close to the same ground clearance as a shaved 14 bolt. I will probably replace the drum brakes with disc at some point in the future, but for the time being the drum brakes work fine.

They have very little grease in them from the factory. Wheeling in wet conditions (as in water over the axle tube) will wash that grease out in a matter of minutes. After that the bearing will last at most a couple of weeks before it starts to get play in it.

I voted Harlan, it's pretty much the same distance and time for me as Badlands, but I've been to Badlands three times, and never to Black Mountain. I'm not opposed to going to Badlands a 4th time, though. It's a great property.

Older YJ Wranglers also used the A904, but they will clock the transfer case up a little higher.

Until I have time to replace the brake lines on the Purple People Eater I'm using my camper for a daily driver and it is at 209,000 km (metric dash). Converted to miles that is only 130,000, though. A few years back I had a 1972, 74, 79, 80, 81 F100 (it was all those years, titled as a 79). It was at 232,000 miles when I wrecked it. Daughter's Cherokee is her daily driver, closing up to 200,000 (I think she's at 197,000 now) without major problems. Not counting batteries or brakes it has gone through one starter and two unit bearings.

Don't know what the cause was. I thought I was having problems with the steering as the truck would pull right every once in a while. After pulling over and checking all the steering components three times I decided to ignore it. In hindsight, it was not the steering, but rather the unit bearing locking up. 6 miles later the front corner of the truck dropped down all of a sudden and as I looked to see if I had a clear lane beside me to pull over I saw my tire rolling down the road, no longer attached to the truck. I was surprised how well the truck handled and how stable it was rolling on three tires and skiing on the passenger steering knuckle after the bottom part of the lower ball joint sheared off.

Found the photos:

That was me. I can't find the pictures anymore, though. The problems I was having with unit bearings have been fixed by swapping out the D35 for a HP D60 out of a 1998 Ford F350. The original axle out of my truck now lives happily under my daughter's 96 Cherokee using the 3 year warranty Autozone Duralast Gold unit bearings,

My frame used to seem solid. After hitting it on a rock obstacle last Sunday the truck seemed to be leaning left a bit. This is what I found. The two white spots are daylight from the other side. It is ripped clear across the bottom and up the inside of the frame rail as well.

I don't know anybody that has put a V8 in a Cherokee or Comanche and doesn't have cooling problems. If anybody has successfully tackled that issue, please post up. One guy I know gave up when a $300 aluminum radiator with 3 electric fans still didn't do it. A BT4 diesel always piques people's curiosity, but they are not easily come by anymore, and to fit a twin turbo set up you have to cut a hole in the hood to clear the 2nd turbo. Stroker's are common enough to be nothing special anymore. I do know a few TJs locally that run a supercharger on a stock 4.0. A supercharger on a stroker would be cool.

I've been wanting to make it to Rausch Creek for a long time. Problem is always either time, money, or both.

To be more exact, the rear axle pinion angle should actually be about a 2 degrees higher angle (ponting down a little bit) than the transfer case output. The pinion will move up under load, and you want the angles to be equal when driving down the highway.

But will it still clear when that wheel drops? I ran a V8 ZJ tie rod for years and never had that problem. My buddy still does and doesn't have that problem. I wonder why you do. Unless you're axle is further forward? Neither I nor him use drop brackets. ~6" lift with longer control arms.

Timken is good, as is National. The Autozone Duralast ones are made by Timken, and I believe (but not positive) the Duralast Gold ones are the exact same as Timknen's own.

Full width HP60 front, Sterling 10.25 rear, recentered Humvee wheels with 3.5" BS. Outside of sidewall to outside of sidewall on the front is 85", rear is 82.5".

THIS.

Just a note on HMT: they require helmets.

Not even close. Long bed driveshaft is 7" longer than short bed one. It will probably be about 5" too long.

Those are definitely shackles on the front of those leafs. I have seen one similar in a local junk yard. YJ front axle, leaf springs from the lower control arm mounts to shackles hanging off a forward mounted custom bumper, but SUA and more stock looking steering.