BIGHEEP

I think I have one. I'll look tomorrow and grab a pic.

I have run into this as well. I just pulled the upper shackle bolt first then reversed the lower bolt position.

I think it is more of a family Jeep than a girl Jeep but I would suggest a 2008+ Liberty. By the newer body style they had the bugs that plagued the first gen sorted out. We bought ours in 2008 and with 90k on it we have only had to do brakes thus far. Regular oil changes are key for the 3.7L.

Wow, the NH Comanche owners are coming out of the woodwork.

I have you both beat. My old MJ didn't even come with floors. That was a factory option right?

10w30 in the ax-15. That is what the Jeep dealer uses and recommends.

Or if you never received your discount card?

You gotta love the dueling spotters. Passenger!...Driver!............ Passenger!... Driver!

Good point with the wheel drop. I don't really get why the steering does not clear either. The only thing I can think of at this point is that the RE 5.5 coils gave me more than 5.5"s of lift. The front is currently sitting higher then the rear SOA. If that was the case though I would think the drop pitman arm would have fixed it. At this point I really don't know what direction to go in.

Check the seal around the door stop?

Shortening is simple. Lengthening is a lot more involved. It requires re tubing the shaft. They basically only use the ends. It is also about 4-6 times the cost of shortening depending on the diameter and wall thickness of the tube you choose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4P75ZQvpws

If anyone is looking to put these on a lifted vehicle here is the link to the shock lengths. The shocks you want are in the 585xx-586xx ish part numbers. http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf

Well, I replaced the pitman are with a drop arm and it helps but still hits the end link. Funny you say that. The old style RE swaybar disconnects were straight. They use a metal spacer to space the link out from the mount. In the first pic you can see I replaced the spacer with a couple washers that were much thinner then the spacer. I was trying to make the tierod clear. I went to my parts pile and found a pair of Full Traction swaybar disconnects off my buddies old TJ. They have bend in them which eliminates the spacer. Houston, we have clearance! Not sure you could slide a piece of paper between them but they clear. It does hit the end link mount at almost full clock but a little love with the grinder should fix that.

Yes the tires are centered. I am using the RE double shear track bar. Here is a pic with the track bar installed and the tires on the ground. The more I look at it the more I think the drop pitman arm may let the tie rod just clear. I am just surprised so many people run this setup without issue.