Arch_Stanton

Hi guys. I had a shop remove my washer fluid reservoir and install a Mopar Cold Air intake. Instead of piping the charcoal canister back into the air intake, they removed the tubing from the canister and capped it off. Is this going to cause pressure problems in the gas tank and lead to problems with the fuel pump down the road? Should I reconnect a canister hose up through the engine bay and install a bung in the air intake so that it burns off the fumes, or potentially just delete the canister? Thanks for the advice. -Ross

Quick reply my man! Thanks.

Help! What is this? I got it with a bunch of misc. parts from an '88, and think the guy called it a heat sink. I'm trying to find names and prices for all my stuff but have no idea on this one. Thanks.

Thanks guys. I'd like to give some good deals and get rid of everything pretty quick so I can get a car in the garage. I will just do my best to price it, and if I aim too high or way too low then I hope someone will let me know. Thanks again, I'll try and get it all listed today.

Hello, I have a bunch of Comanche parts and pieces I need to clear from the garage, but I don't know what price to put on many items. I searched the old classifieds but didn't find listings for a good number of parts. I laid them all out and took pictures, and am hoping a club member might help me price some of this stuff so I can list it all in one big post. If anyone is willing please lemme know. Thanks in advance. -Ross

In the last couple weeks I've been trying to get pictures for you guys.

I couldn't get pics because I was on the clock, but a customer of mine pulled up yesterday in a Qvale Mangusta he had imported from Italy.

I have one of these I scooped off of Craigslist, but it didn't come with hardware. I guess the OEM versions were originally attached with nutserts, but can I just slap it on there with regular old bolts?

I was going to attempt the "easier" version of the fix suggested by Bounty Hunter earlier in the thread where you slide the collar over and install the cover upside down so that the fork holds the collar in place instead of the little c-clip. Either way seems easy enough, just not sure what the wires do. I guess I'm nervous that the clip may not be strong enough to hold the collar in place semi-permanently.

I'm about to attempt the CAD fix by adjusting the shift fork over and installing the cover update down. I see the vacuum lines I need to plug, but I also have what looks like a pigtail connector plugged into the cover on the left with a black and red wire. What is that for, and should I reattach it after flipping the cover? I can't attach pics from my phone,but the original pics in this thread show the same wires. Thanks.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info!

Wow awesome and quick replies, thanks guys. I guess I'll order the mopar/spicer joints and let my guy replace them for me, and then I'll attempt the CAD fix myself. I may have some questions on the CAD fix options because I've read of several ways to tackle that, but I'll post them over on that thread when I get after it. Thanks again. -Ross

So if I replace the passenger and driver side 2-piece axle shafts with solid 1-piece shafts and plug the vacuum lines, that will essentially delete my disconnect system? Is that in any way related to my ball joints? I mean, should I just get it all done at the same time or are they two distinct problems? I found these two threads among others and I'm trying to understand it all with my feeble mechanical knowledge. http://www.wranglerboard.com/f32/center-axle-disconnect-replacements-264/ http://www.wranglerboard.com/f32/explanation-vacuum-cad-workaround-4wd-light-vacuum-bypass-270/

I was told by my mechanic that I need new upper and lower ball joints for my '91 Comanche, and he recommended OEM over any aftermarket stuff. He quoted me $300 for the labor to do the work if I provide the parts, and he actually recommended I get the parts from the dealership. I have the Dana 30 front axle with the vacuum disconnect, and I have been having problems with the vacuum pressure or something because my "part-time 4wd" light flickers on and off. I was going to try and tackle a version of the CAD fix myself by flipping the disconnect upside down and plugging the vacuum lines, but now I wonder if I should go ahead and have someone install a non-disconnect axle shaft from a newer XJ. If I install a new axle shaft will I still need the new ball joints or are they unrelated? Sorry for the newb question and thanks for any help or clarification you guys can provide. -Ross

Yeah I think I'll take a bit off the hitch, enough so I can get it coated also. Hopefully it will fit nice and snug and will all be freshly coated except for the ball and pin.