mvusse

The nose of an 8.25" is an inch longer than a D35. If your yoke has at least 1" of rust that has never been inside the transfer case your rear driveshaft will work. The 29 spline ones are stronger than the 27 spline ones. The changeover was some time during the 1996 model year.

I have an 87 long bed and an 87 short bed parked side by side in my driveway. The springs are identical as verified by tape measure.

My daughter runs 32s in her 4.0 Cherokee. Automatic transmission, 4.10 gears, 4.0 HO engine and a reflashed CPU (done by previous owner 10 years or so ago) and the thing is stupid quick. Breaks loose the rear tires no problem when stomping on it from a still stand. I ran 33" street tires on my Renix 4.0 with the stock 3.55 gears with an automatic transmission. Mileage wasn't terribly bad. Actually, 70 to 85 mph it was better than with the stock 29" tires. Aggressive MT tread will definitely affect mileage more. I later ran 35" MT tires with the same stock gears and overdrive was pretty much useless. MPG took a 25% hit too. I currently run 37" tires on 4.10 gears, but the engine is old and tired now. It will move them, but no better than my 2.5 on stock tires. Plan is for a stroker and deeper gear, but lack of $$$ is stopping me.

OBD II didn't show up in Jeeps until 1996. His 95 HO system is OBD I.

You will need 16" or larger wheels to clear the larger brakes. As for the bolt pattern, they are two different ways to go: 1 - convert to 5 on 5. You would have to run WJ front unit bearings and either a WJ rear axle or re-drill your axle flanges for 5 on 5 pattern. 2 - stay 5 on 4.5 and re-drill the brakes front and rear to match that. No familiar with WJ rear brakes. Are they disc, or still drums?

The AX15 is closely related to the Toyota R154. Aside from that I don't know about any other Toyota/Jeep similarities.

4.0 stock MJ was okay (but just barely okay) without sway bar. 4.0 MJ lifted 6.5" without sway bar was almost impossible to keep in my lane (bump steer with body roll) 2.5 stock MJ without sway bar would roll side to side from turbulent air at any speed over 65mph. And not just a little bit either. This was definitely not safe. Personal experience, your mileage may vary.

AX15 will not bolt onto a 2.5 without the unicorn of bellhousings: dodge dakota 2.5/stick. Since this transmission is a lot longer you will also need new front and rear driveshafts.

I'll try to get some tomorrow.

My apologies if this has been covered before. So the last couple of years the my valve cover breather has been deteriorating fast, and the rubber elbow completely fell apart last week. Went looking about the store at my new job (Autozone) and came up with the following solution: -Help #42059 AMC PCV valve grommet (although the package says Chrysler). This fits perfectly in the Renix 25mm valve cover breather hole. $2.99 -Help #47046 Ford PCV elbox. This fits inside the grommer and takes a standard 19/32 PCV hose on the other end. $3.99 -Goodyear #50282 19/32 PCV hose. This is sold by the foot, you will need about 2 feet. 2 x $2.09 = $4.18 Grand total of $11.16 plus tax. The grommet goes into the valve cover, the elbow goes into the grommet, and the hose goes from the elbow to the port on the air cleaner. Notes: Although the grommet and elbow are Help parts, they were not in the Help section. Instead they were with the PCV valves (which in my store is between the oil filters and the fuel filters). The hose is in the back of the store and has to be cut by an employee.

Where are you at? I have one for a lwd Comanche sitting outside my shop waiting for someone to pick it up (free). I just can't get myself to cut it in half and throw it in the dumpster. Strasburg, OH.

Worst one was probably losing a front wheel due to a unit bearing separating while going 60mph in the center land of a 3 lane highway.

Drop pitman arm will actually worsen the angle difference between the drag link and the track bar, causing bump steer. To prevent bump steer you'll need a "rise" pitman arm, or a drop trackbar bracket.

CTM Followed by Alloy USA Followed by Spicer Everything else is crap.

I wonder if for some reason the fluid is getting too hot and cavitating? That would pretty much shut down the pump.

Replace your O2 sensor. The low resistance of the CPS probably blew it. Even an analog multimeter has a low enough impedance to damage an O2 sensor.

Stiff ride in an MJ (at least to my personal experience) is because of stiff shocks. Especially the front ones. Since you seem to be sitting ~6 or so inches higher than stock, I imagine you have 3rd party shocks under it. All 3rd party lift shocks I have dealt with (Skyjacker, Superlift and Tuff Country) are extremely stiff, better suited to a full size 1 ton truck.

He's in Minnesota, not Ohio. --------------- The problem (and possibly the cause for nobody making the Comanche ones) is that all manufacturers as well as store computer systems thinks the Comanche uses the same assembly as the Cherokee. Not only is the Comanche one mirror image, I believe it is also about 1/4" longer. I think a Cherokee one could be used in a tank meant for a non fuel-injected truck as these don't have the pan in the bottom of the tank.

Another problem XJs have with using a lift spring with more arch and the stock stupidly short shackle, the shackle hits end back side of the box during compression. Shackle relocation bracket and/or longer shackle solve this. I have never seen the need for a relocated shackle mounting position on an MJ. What springs are you running?

The power numbers you listed don't warrant a 4L80E. I would go with the 700R4.

Updated list: custom driveshaft on the rear, shortened stock one on the front. F350 axles (D60 front, 10.25 rear). Aftermarket lift shocks on front. Ford front shocks on rear. TJ rear brake hose. Chevy 1500 brake hoses on front. Topper is gone (still for sale) along with bed. ZJ steering box. 01-04 V8 WJ steering pump. WJ pitman arm.

Was no aluminum under the foam.

Only the KJ Liberty. I believe the newer KK moved to 5 on 5 as well.

Unless it is white foam, I did not notice a spacer plate on the 96 booster I swapped into Wilbur. But the parts vehicle was a late 96 and already had the 97 dash and engine harnesses. Did the 97 and up have a spacer? If not, would it be possible that the late 96s also don't have one? FWIW, the new booster works fine, but I swapped the 96 pedal assembly in with it.