mvusse

I got one you can have for $50, but I'm in Ohio. How far you willing to travel?

Flat ground, stock tires and cruising 60 mph I used to get 24mpg out of my Renix 4.0/auto on long trips with a range of about 550 miles or 880 km. Neither my old XJ (4.0HO/stick shift) nor my current (4.0HO/auto) have ever managed to touch that. My Renix 2.5/5 speed with 3.55 gears can manage 27mpg if I stick to 60, or 24mpg at 75. This one has the smaller short bed tank, though, so it's range is only about 450 miles or 720 km. Sad thing is, my 1984 Olds 98 with a 5 liter engine and 4 barrel carburetor got 24mpg also on the highway. That is a larger vehicle weighing more with older technology and a larger engine. Large gas tank also giving it a range of 600 miles or 960 km. But the King was my Suburban with a 42 gallon tank and a 750 mile/1200 km range . Ohio to Florida, a week in Florida and then back to Ohio with two fill ups (three tanks of gas). But at $4 per gallon at the time those fill ups cost $160 each. I also paid $180 CDN for a fill up north of the border once. Sadly, I got rid of it a few years ago. Current long distance cruiser is my camper with a 33 gallon tank and 18 mpg again at 60. Mileage takes a huge nose dive at faster speeds probably because of the 8 foot tall roof. But towing my Jeep on a trailer in hilly terrain I usually only get about 7. I keep track of my mileage on a spreadsheet. Running average of my 2.5 since I got it in January of 2011 is hovering around 20 or 21 mpg mixed driving. Goes up some over the summer, down during the winter.

Those same nut strips are used for the factory gas tank skid plate.

5th gear from your 2wd AX5 should install just fine into a 4wd AX4. Also, IRC on the AX4/AX5 if you only need to be in the back of the case for the rear output shaft there is no need to take anything apart in the front half. 5th gear (unlike 1st through 4th) also lives in the rear half of the case. If you are completely tearing down both cases to build a 4wd AX5 from the best parts, make sure 1st through 4th are the same between them, or keep them together from the same transmission. At some time the 1st and/or 2nd gear rations changed (can't remember for sure which, or what year), and you can't use the main gears from the one with the counter shaft from the other one. That issue took me three days of down time to figure out.

As long as you don't get water or mud in your tires they don't clump. One of the nearby tire places used Equal beads in my Wintermark snow tires. I have used Airsoft BBs in a set of 35x12.50, 33x12.50 , 31x10.50 and a pile of P235/75R15s. Seems to work quite well, but the Airsoft BBs sound like a rainmaker when you come to a complete stop and the ones in the top of the tire bounce off the rim on the way down. I'm running my current 37x12.50s unbalanced, but I can't use BBs in them because of the runflat lubricant (modified H1 wheels with the stock rubber runflats). Still need to find someone that can balance them with sticky weights after running them for closing up to a year now.

24.8 gallons to fill up a new 23.5 gallon longbed tank.

I have that bracket on my MJ and also on my daughter's XJ. Bolt holes lined up perfectly on both of them.

The problem I have had with output shaft seals is that the Spicer catalog show the wrong number for the rear output shaft seal for a 231J. The one it lists is for a 231D for the larger diameter Dodge slip yoke. Can't remember where we found the correct part number anymore, though, nor what the correct parf number is.

The pump is the same for 87 (no ballast resistor) as in 88-90 (with the ballast resistor). The resistor was added due to customers complaining about the fuel pump being loud, meaning it must be bad. The resistor quiets it down some. But even on the 88 and later ones, that resistor is bypassed on start up and during wide open throttle operation allowing the pump to work at max capacity. The pump will like 12V (or even 14.4V from the alternator when the truck is running) just fine.

1 - Hell Creek for the rear springs, Rusty's or Rubicon Express for the coil springs rest can come from anywhere. 2 - as noted above, XJ front and transfer case skids work on the MJ. 3 - Firestick, Wilson, K40. HAVE IT TUNED!!! 4 - ? 5 - ? 6 - Custom 4x4 XJ tow hook brackets with hooks. http://www.custom4x4fabrication.com/recovery.html

87 4.0 MJ did not have the ballast resistor, and on the ones that do it is bypassed on start up (and during WOT), so testing the voltage across the pump you should still see (close to) full battery voltage unless the truck is running.

Get a long length of hose, make a large loop in it, kind of like turning left three times to go right.

I run Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W30. P.O also ran that in the AX4 that was in the truck when I bought it.

I used disc brakes from a ZJ D35, drilled out the center hole from 2.75" to 3" and bolted them to my 1998 8.25". Never changed the studs, never had a problem. As for U bolts, I have never reused them, but for less than $30 for a whole set (4 bolts, 8 washers, 8 tall nuts) custom made to order while I wait (about 15 minutes) I never seen the need to. Have always used 9/16", except for the Sterling 10.25" under Wilbur for which I got 5/8".

I have been eyeing the jd2 model 32 for a while now. Never heard anything bad about them.

Tube is structural, pipe is meant to hold a liquid or a gas.

Newer years have an external slave bell housing with CPS, but don't know what range. My current AX5 is out of a 1992 Wrangler it has has them.

Taking the extra leafs out of the leaf, pack should drop it down some to where the drive shaft might stay in. Going back to stock shackles will change the pinion angle, and because of that, despite it dropping the rear down some, will actually pull the shaft out more than it already is. Don't know how the length of the nose of an 8.8 with a 1310 adapter would measure compared to the nose of a D44. You will most likely need wheel spacers with the 8.8 to keep your tires away from the inside wall of the fenders. With the wide @$$ of our trucks, IMO even with the stock axle you need wheel spacers to make it look right.

Just a note on your rear springs. It looks like the originals are the main leaf, 4th from top, 6th from top (just above the over load) and over load leaf. The other 3 in between are bastards out of one or more other vehicles. The shackles are definitely not original and seem to be a few inches longer than the stock ones. If the front is 6.5", the rear should look better with the bastards taken out.

A friend of mine reinforced the frame on his Cherokee front to back. Don't know if it is because of this and forces being transmitted through the body, but when he set a frame rail down on a rock pretty hard it caused the windshield to crack. Thinking the original unibody (without 1/4" thick plating) might have dented enough to absorb some of the impact and prevent this. I know I have a good number of dents in the "frame rails" and never cracked a window yet unless from contact with a tree or a rock.

88 Comanche isn't even OBD I, it is Renix. OBD I was from 1991 through 1995, OBD II is from 1996 onwards. For plug in swap you'll need an AW4 from 1987 through 1990.

I use a trick flow pump mounted low just outside the fuel cell for my 4.0. Cooled by the fuel flowing through it, so it must be used with a return line to ensure constant flow of fuel. Never a problem with it yet other than it's loud and the noise transmits through the unibody. Maybe a setup like that with a universal pressure regulator and return line would last longer than an electric carburetor pump.

Should swap right over.

I'd deflate my tires to 7 psi and try to crawl it. No way do I have enough power too hit it fast enough to do what he did.

I have never broken an axle shaft or u joint in a D30 (more than 20 of them) without it damaging the seal in the process.