DrThunder

It's a pretty bad design that does some really funky things with the pinion angle when cycled up and down.

Don't miss out on this deal! I already order my shocks. Remote res For jeeps http://store.edelbrock.com/jeep.aspx Universal shocks http://store.edelbrock.com/universallifted.aspx

So I moved the shackle mount to under the bumper to obtain the ultimate shackle angle, once I get the new shocks the droop will be even better :headbang: Basically it's perfect right now. Built my shackles which are just about 6" long so got a good length. Still undecided what I want to put inbetween the shackles for steel, might just leave the middle open. Also added in a fuel cell.

The tailgate was too tall to make work with a bumper and the shackles attached to the bumper.

Done for the night, tomorrow I'll get the temporary shackles working and start putting all the $#!& back together. The thing was designed to be as short as possible while still being able to fit a 40 nicely. And for fun Before After

Starting to look like something. No stock tailgate. Couldn't make it work. Probably do something with tubing. Love the look of it though

Workin on the taillight housings, total taken out was 17" of sheetmetal, 19" total with the bumper sucked in.

Couple more pics I'll have more later on

Built diff covers, locked the front too, blah blah blah, probably forgetting more stuff. But finally got started on the bed chop :brows: Basically the leafs are now flipped around leaving the short end of the leaf at the back which allows me to shorten the bed an extra 5". We also shortened the wheelbase 1" to take up the excess amount of yoke sticking out the t-case. Now it sits at 112". The front of the leaf was stuffed into the frame and the frame (which is scary to see just how thin of sheet metal they use) is plated with 1/8" plate on both sides. Now the fun begins to see just how short we can get it. Looks to be somewhere in the 18 = 20" range on total shortness Can't wait for tomorrow!!!!

Here is an old pic of the frame resto in primer and a picture of the before damages. Built bumper awhile ago and the frame was broken about a half a year ago.

Absolutely 100% correct. That ball being gone creates a huge vacuum leak which doesn't just affect the heat not working but other things as well like how the engine runs. Your heater controls are controlled by vacuum. What I did was get rid of the vacuum canister (trace both lines up the fender, cut to shorten them and connect the two. This way at least there isn't a vacuum leak. The only downside to this is that on hills when the engine isn't creating as much vacuum the heat goes up to defroster then returns.

Time to pull the tranny out :roll:

Saw your jeep today! Did your father relay you the message?

I'll stick to coils and longarms, Never ever had death wobble.

I use that fan in a pulling fashion on my 72 chevelle with a built up 327 and it runs 170 normally, around 185 on 100 degree days at the mcdonald's drive thru. So if that won't keep it cool then you have other issues.