Blaine

thanks gene ans yes I did. I noticed while driving a pump or two orit will stiff'n up a bit with somewhat decent braking they won't lock up though. Ill try the procedure and see how I fair

Sorry to bring up old thread. I replaced the two lines going to the rear. Cut the bad out and union'd the new ones in by the fuel filter. I have a solid stream coming out of bleeder screws, gets firm with engine off, spongy with engine on. I have the height sensor angled a little above horizontal so it supplies more pressure to the rear. I read that I need to crack open a front bleeder to get the safety feature to allow more pressure to rear and bleed the rear with the front bleeder open and then bleed the whole system?

I've done some research on here and there are a couple procedures I haven't done, gunna try them 1st. Have hardly any cash atm but thanks for the link though in case I do need it

reverse bleeding? do you mean putting a vacuum hand pump on bleeder screw? also i do have that load valve angled above horizontal to allow more brake force to the rear.

So i just replaced the two brake lines running to the rear, instead of doing the whole line just cut them by the fuel filter and union'd two new one's in. one to a small distribution block, other to the load proportioning valve, which last time i checked, it was working. while bleeding them i get a good stream coming from the bleeder screws and can hear the brakes being applied via spring noise. pedal gets nice and firm while engine off, get spongy when engine on. even tried bleeding while engine running. still spongy. before this they were firm.......any suggestions

ebay is where i got mine check em out

i had a new button,cap and wires. so i did plugs, air filter, oil change. today i did tip 1&2, did #26 valve cover mod a week ago. it still idles funky start it up idles fine, then rough back to fine and so on. this motor is new i put it in a few months ago its been running fine till recently. cannot remember what year cherokee it came out of but was around the same cuz its a renix. all i have done is replaced the starter and this has been happening not long after

the tune up helped out a lot, although the dumbasses at AutoZone gave me autolite when I ORDERED NGK's, better then what I had but will replace soon. drives good, idle still funky but going to do some more of cruiser's tips before I start throwing parts at it,

makes sense because I just did the valve cover mod for sucking oil into the air filter through the pcv system, could very well be oil film hindering a good signal and my CAT is cleaned out has been for years, O2 woud have picked that up wouldn't

I have done some. As of today it has gotten worse, my gf said it had stalled on her while driving around 10-15mph it has never done that to me, I'm doing a tune up tomorrow on it, after that give ill give an update. just thought when I unplugged that idle air control valve I would have noticed a change.

any suggestions would be nice

done, and this issue is on the 87 4.0 guess that makes it easier for everyone huh, lol. forgot to do that :doh:

87 4.0L did some research on here, couldn't get exact issue, but my truck at idle sounds like its cam'd running rough, the it will pick up and run fine, then back to rough, sometimes when i shift to drive or reverse it will stall, it will start fine though. MAP sensor is ok, undo the vac line and it stalls, but when i unplug the idle air control valve no change, wondering if thats the issue?

thanks gunna need it And no I'm a dummy, all I had to do was replace the switch that the rod goes into that supplies power to everything, didn't even need to tear into anything, but had no idea what anyone was talking about, what rod and switch? so I tore into it too find out, well I found out all right, SOB. thanks again, just need to find one now

yea it is but screw it, while messing with it last night the ignition rod came undone again, so I'm just going to get another column seeing mines is already out of it, a lot less hassle I believe