mvusse

Ummm, no. The axle sits on top of the main leaf. The rest of the pack including the add-a-leaf sits underneath the main leaf.

AutoZone still carries carburetor cleaner in gallon cans.

Some changes since then. Front axle out of an 89 F-350 Rear axle out of a 92 F-350 Power steering pump out of an 01 Grand Cherokee, modified for higher pressure Steering box out of a Durango, modified for longer stroke and hydraulic assist Pitman arm is not original, can't remember from what Wheels from a HMMWV, modified for 3" back spacing Tires from same (37x12.50R16.5 BFGs, military flavor) Shortened stock front drive shaft with conversion u joint Lengthened .250 wall front driveshaft with conversion u joint in the rear Front brake hoses from some vintage Chevy truck

I ran 33s on stock 3.55 gears with a 4.0 and automatic transmission. 60-65 mph overdrive was useless, but running 80-85 mph on a 400 mile trip to Badlands Off-road Park I got 17 mpg. I then moved up to 35s and overdrive was useless at any speed, and the best mileage I managed was 12 mpg. I currently run 37s on one tons and building a striker.

I am out as well. Was at Badlands for three days back in March, Will be there again Black Friday plus weekend. Can't afford a third trip there in one year.

In my experience, the weak point of hp d30 is the u joints. Even the larger ones. They are the exact same u joints used on d44 axles. So you would be giving up ground clearance from the larger pumpkin, while still having the same weakest link.

If the shaft moves, it is either bent (unlikely) or the bearing is toast (more likely). This will also cause the shaft to eat the seal. I have never seen an output shaft bend without breaking.

I used to run 33s on the stock 3.55 axles. Ran 80-85 for 400 miles like that headed to Badlands Offroad Park.

Still planning to as well.

It might be doable by only keeping the MJ main leaf, and bastard packing the xj pack in there. You're just going to have to try and see.

Or did you throw in the tj unit bearing with the axle shaft.

No difference between the axle shafts except for abs/no abs. Brake rotors depend on unit bearings. Some unit bearings do not work with the abs tone ring, but that tone ring can be removed with two good hits of a hammer.

Your 88 has a Saginaw column, as do GM vehicles. Steering wheel for any Chevy should fit.

How much is involved in fitting a Dakota tank under an MJ?

I have run one non-disconnect axle housing on the trail pig because it was all I had left laying around after I grenaded the 4th differential. Took about a month before the sheet metal passenger upper control arm mount ripped off the tube. Never had thris problem with the cast mounts on the disconnect axles. Keep your current axle housing, install an oil seal in the passenger side axle tube right at the differential (part number that fits is in the first post of my build thread, linked in my sig), pull the guts out of the disconnect hoising, and install a single piece axle shaft, either larhe u joints, or V8 ZJ CV shaft. After thrashing on my daughter's XJ which runs the CV shafts (on 33x14.00 boggers at the time) I have found them to be much stronger than people give them credit for.

You will need to swap EVERYTHING. Dash harness, engine bay harness, radiator mount, The transmission tunnel should have 4 dimples you may need to drill out to mount a transfer case linkage bracket, but it is also possible they have been drilled at the factory and just have rubber plugs in them. You will also need to splice the MJ body harness into the XJ dash harness. The tail lights are wired differently, but there should be instructions somewhere on this site. You will also need the XJ sender assembly, which contains the pump, correct fuel level sender for the dash cluster, and the fuel pressure regulator. But since it is mirror image from the MJ one, it will only fit in the 84-86 carburated V6 tank. The baffles inside the fuel injected tanks will be in the way for the pick-up. There is no other solution for this. 91 and 92 MJ sending units do have the correct sender, but will lack the fuel pressure regulator.

The Renix distributor is not adjustable, and has no vacuum advance, so both of those are a no-go. I don't think you'll find anything out there that can interface with the Renix ECM, either.

87 through 90 YJ Wranglers have them. Reman ones are out of stock everywhere (trust me, I have looked). Scat makes one for around $400, available through Jegs with free shipping. The older ones (72-86) have a nose that is 10mm longer (a fuzz over 3/8"). Somebody (Hesco?) makes a spacer for the harmonic damper to use one of these. Reman ones of these are also out of stock everywhere.

Why do you suggest I should keep the Renix intake, and not use the HO one? TPS modification seems straightforward, and I have all other pieces needed for it (like throttle cable). Also, even though the casting number on the head definitely says 0630, it does have the hole for the coolant temp sensor. It is a reman head, though, so it may have been drilled and tapped by a shop and not be factory. The block (53020569) does have the boss for the knock sensor, but it has not been tapped. The "puffing out the dipstick tube" turns out to have been caused by the #3 piston missing a chunk which also damaged the rings and scored the cylinder wall. A .020 or .030 overbore will easily take care of this and leave plenty left in case it ever needs bored again. Planning on using a 87-90 crank so I won't need a spacer for the harmonic balancer, and will probably get pistons that work with the longer 4.0 rods. Using the stock 97 camshaft, and planning on running 87 octane at around 1200 feet above sea level. Currently still tearing down the block so I can take it to a machine shop to be bored and decked.

Found the cause of the blow-by puffing out the dipstick tube: #3 cylinder was cracked. have not checked yet to see how badly the cylinder got scored, but I'm planning on a .020 or .030 overbore anyway.

Making the rear axle fit is trivial. The biggest job for my rear axle swap was shortening the drive shaft and installing a conversion u joint. (Although right now I run a fully custom shaft with a SYE on the transfer case. Front axle is a different story. I snatched up a junkyard Ford high pinion D60 for $250 because it was too good of a deal to pass it up. It lived in a corner in my shop for more than half a year before I even touched it, but when I started on it it took me 9 months and $300 in brackets and steel plate to make it bolt up, not counting labor. I opted to keep my truck's stock 4 link setup and adapt the axle to it. In hindsight it would have been easier to keep the axle's leaf spring setup and convert the truck to bolt up to it.

33s will fit in the rear, but depending on tires width and wheel backspacing you may have trouble up front. I briefly ran 4.5" with 33x12.50 and had problems keeping them out of the front fenders. I ended up adding 1.75" spacers up front and going SOA in the rear and it all fit fine. 3.5" will be a challenge, but might be doable with 33x10.50 tires. My daughter's ran 265/75R16s which equal out to about a 32x10.50 on 2.75" lift without too much of a problem, and no problem at all at 4.5" now. I used stock KJ Liberty 16" rims and WJ Grand Cherokee lower control arms on it. My truck now sits on full width tons and low backspacing double beadlocks with 37s on the same 6.25" lift, but the custom bracketry on the front axle actually added one more inch to the front ride height. Very stable with the 85" track width and heavy axle/tire combo underneath. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10202508738173291&set=t.100001137240661&type=3&theater

The reason oil press and temp don't work is because your engine has switches meant to drive idiot lights, not sending units to drive the gauges. Swap them out fo the correct ones, out of a 87-90 MJ/XJ with full gauges, or from a parts store and it should all work correctly. The oil one sits on the oil filter adapter while the temp one is screwed into the driver side firewall corner of the head right next to the valve cover. Be careful as this one might want to break off before it comes loose. The blue full gauge cluster is relatively rare, but correct for the truck. The read ones are more plentiful and thus easier to find. I used a red one for over a year before I finally found a blue one. Luckily I didn't have to swap sending units as my truck started out with a 3/4 cluster (all gauges, but no tach).

Reviving an old thread... The 4.0 in my trail rig is on its last legs. Once warmed up it shows 0 oil pressure at anything under 2000 rpm unless I run 20w50, massive blow-by, and noticeable loss of power over the years to about what the 2.5 in my daily driver puts out. Recently picked up a fully dressed 4.0 out of a 97 XJ with a reman 0630 head that has a port for the coolant temp sensor. Supposedly has blow by puffing out the dipstick tube, but I have time to fix this spare engine while getting the frame fixed on the truck, and with two engines the truck will still be mobile with the old engine in it. Researching for the past week, I have decided on #2. I may use the 97 intake that came with the engine, or upgrade to a 99 one. Modifying the TPS seems fairly simple, and I should still have a HO (1996) gas pedal and throttle cable assembly laying around from a parts Cherokee I bought for a 4wd conversion on my 2wd 96XJ. The dual diaphragm booster and brake pedal assembly out of that one are already living in the truck. Planning to a DIY port/polish on the head as well. Wish me luck!

I have always had better luck with Spicer joints, but I run cv shafts in my daughter's Cherokee. Never a problem yet with either the 32x10.50 street tires, or the 33x13.50 Boggers.