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Mobil 1 high mileage 10W30 for synthetic or Quaker State Defy 10W30 for conventional. Both are still API SL and thus still have ZDDP in it. 4 stroke motorcycle oils are all rated API SJ because they need large amounts of ZDDP.

I will be watching live streaming on a 46" tv from the comfort of my couch. Johnson Valley is just a tad far away from Ohio.

In a few weeks I will have an 87 wiring harness for sale. But you will have to take the unibody with engine, transmission and transfer case along with it.

X3 on AX-15.

Similar Mileage? I get 27 mpg highway, 21 mixed in my 4 cylinder. Best I ever got out of a 4.0 was 24 highway, 17 mixed. 21 mpg is a 24% improvement over 17.

Definitely an 8.25". And X2 on what Pete said about perch spacing.

Everything broke at once https://www.facebook.com/clay.clawson.3/videos/1411952045486730/?pnref=story

I did a write-up on how to fix this for about $11 http://comancheclub.com/topic/42294-renix-valve-cover-breather-repair/

I ran 35s with 3.55 gears for years. Overdrive was useless on the road, but plenty of power off road in low range. Locked both axles, spicer cold forged joints in the front, 97 spline 8.25" in the rear. Over the course of 3 years of wheeling I broke more than 20 axle shafts and u joints and grenaded 4 differentials before I went to 1 ton axles and 37s. The Comanche is now dead (severe frame rot) and about to be replaced by a rust free 99 XJ.

I was going to try it in the stroker I was going to build to replace the tired engine in my truck, but now that I'm replacing the entire truck the point is moot.

Get a cable drive unit from any older 231. You don't have to swap out tail shaft or tail housing, it will be a direct swap involving 1 single bolt. Even one out of a 2wd AW4 should work, exactly the same. I wouldn't be surprised if your old one from your 207 would fit as well.

If you can swing it I'd go with the Bosch pump, the airtex pumps are poor quality . There is a locating tab for the screen / strainer on the lower ring of the fuel sender , between the force of the strainer being pushed on the pump and slightly crimping the locating tab it will stay in place just fine . Bosch , Delphi , AC delco , carter , precision then airtex . are my opinion from best to worst pumps . There are other brands I'm sure but that's my personal experience . Has anyone ever had any problems with the "poor quality" airtex pumps? Years ago I installed one in Wilbur, lived there for a few years, then ended up on a shelf when I got an after market fuel cell. When the stock pump gave up in the Purple People Eater I tossed in the old Airtex one and it still runs fine to this day.

I ran Rubicon Express 4.5" coils plus a 1.75" spacer in the front, combined with stock springs and stock shackles SOA in the rear. Worked well with 33" tires, had to cut fenders to fit 35". When I moved up to 37" tires I also went to full width axles and less back spacing on the rims.tires sit completely outside the body with about an extra inch of lift in front from the spring buckets I used. Very stable with 85.5" track width.

Would a 70s 231 out of an SJ not bolt up to a 4L60 without an adapter? In the SJ they were mated to a THM400. Or get a 241C that belongs behind a 4L60, plenty of them in junk yards. Sell the 231J and spend your money on something else.

Among some of the differences between my 96 Cherokees was the plug for the crank position sensor.

My 87 base model had no lighter socket, no clock and no radio, but as stated above, all the wiring was there.

My 96 xj was an early model, but still obd2, spliced onto the obd1 harness. The 96 parts xj I had was a later one and actually uses the 97 harness. Didn't know any 96s were still obd1 as I thought the fed gov required all 96 and newer model years to be obd2. Or maybe they went by build date. I think they started th 96 model year around sept 95.

Are you planning on using 95 or 96 electronics? 96 is OBD II, and adds a second O2 sensor, after the catalytic converter. 95 is OBD I and will be a bit easier. That being said, I do have both a 96 ECU from an automatic xj, and the matching TCU sitting on a shelf. As far as the electronics are concerned, 91 through 95 is the same, and 96 through 99 is the same.

Never stalled or shut off in water, but been in water up to the driver side headlight and passenger side windshield corner on more than one occasion and no problem with the exhaust blowing bubbles.

I have a 94 ZJ 231 behind a 96 XJ AW4. Don't know about AX15.

Turns out in ours the 4th is the engine code. B is diesel H is 2.5 Fuel injected U is 2.5 carbureted (84-85 Cherokee) W is 2.8 v6 (what you have) M is 4.0

8th digit is usually, but not on all vehicles, the engine code. But you missed the first digit in your's. There is a 1 for "made in USA" in front of the J, making your 8th digit a 1.

After breaking both rear springs and snapping the rear driveshaft (axle being held under the truck by just the shocks) I'm glad I installed a SYE. Managed to tow it back to camp (a few miles) without losing any fluid from the t-case. Now that I replaced the springs I can still tool around in it in front wheel drive.

I have towed a relatively large pop-up with my MJ. Around 2000 pounds, no brakes, with a 4.0/auto with a Chrysler 8.25" rear axle and disc brakes. Worked well, but would not want to go much heavier. I have had a 94 half ton Suburban and currently have a 91 three quarter ton camper conversion van. Both tow 7000 pounds weight carrying quite comfortably, although with hills the gas mileage sucks. On flat ground the van gets 18mpg by itself, 10mpg towing. That is with a GM 5.7l engine. Newer 5.3l engine should be better than that while making more hp at the same time.

I have never seen a longer warranty on unit bearings than three years. I have also lost my faith in Timken. Their quality seems to have slid down the drain the last few years. No experience with Moog yet.