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skidoo_j's Achievements

Comanche Addict

Comanche Addict (5/10)

  1. What I have available at no cost is an MSD 6 digital, an MSD ford TFI coil (8227) or a MSD blaster 2 (8202). There maybe an 8228 that looks like the HO coil too... Please advise
  2. I know the jeep system is hard to improve on, but my ICM is dead and I have a free MSD 6... I called msd and the guy there made it sound like the only way to trigger the MSD is through a working ICM. If this is the case I'll just put the Chinese ICM that I can get at the autoparts in and a factory coil. I would like to run the MSD and Coil I have for free If i can so I don't have any out of pocket on this fix... Does anyone know if the factory ecu square wave input can trigger the MSD6? And if so is it connected to the white wire???? (From MSD manual "This wire is used to connect to breaker points, electronic ignition amplifier output or to the Yellow wire of an MSD Timing Accessory. When this wire is used, the Magnetic Pickup connector is not used.") There are four wires at factory icm ; Ignition ground tach signal d1 ecu square wave input...
  3. They are one of the first I tried. Although this time I tried searching for a chrysler in 89 and I found PS3.. Does anyone know if Jeep in 89 would have painted with chrysler paint codes??? The color chip looks alot darker than my areas under the hood that have not faded..
  4. I've searched all paint suppliers I can find and nothing matches what I'm presuming is the paint code of 427 or ps3 depending on which tag information I'm susposed to use. Either way no numbers on this tag coorespond to any paint codes listed for PPG or any other "factory" paint codes from Jeep. My MJ was made 04/89. I tried finding the paint code as an 88, 89, 90. Nothing in the PPG books have codes that match that I can figure out. Please help
  5. Long story short... I'm SOA in the rear with metric ton springs (4/1) with XJ shackles and ruffstuff 8" perches, I've been running a Stub and Slip shaft (sye w/o the double cardon). I've ran this setup for 5 years and not been happy with the rear suspension. Recently I put the MJ shackle back on and it's night and day difference in the rear, I assume the springs are able to move and flatten more now... I do not want the extra lift that I obtained with the mj shackles installed, and at the same time axle the angle is now wrong, causing drivline vibrations. Correcting angle with shims will give me more lift (3* shim 8" long is min 1/4" lift). But I only want a 4" lift in the rear. The axle is originally from an xj so it's 2 3/4" tube, current spring pack thickness is 1 3/4", plus the delta in spring perch under to over probably 1/2". So basically I'm trying to eliminate 1" of lift that I accomplished prior with the xj shackle.... 6 My goal is just a 4" lift in the rear. the axle is originally from an xj so it's 2 3/4" tube plus the spring pack thickness is 1 3/4" plus the delta in spring perch under to over probably 1/2". So basically I'm trying to eliminate 1" of lift. and I'd accomplished this prior with the xj shackle.... My plan is to put new perches on to correct angle, remove some lift with cutting the perches deeper (currently about 5/16" gap between spring center bolt and axle so I can take 3/16" off here). I'm going to roll the axle and go with a CV style shaft with a double cardon. Do reduce the lift further: I would like to remove the 5/8" thick bottom leaf and leave the top 4 leafs.... I have a set of airbags that are collecting dust that i could then add for when I haul something I don't damage anything. SO here are the questions for input..... How Severe will the axle wrap be? (perch is 8") Would replacing the 5/8" bottom one with one from an xj that's the same length, but 3/16" reduce the wrap enough to benefit? What about possibly using slider boxes in stead of a shackle? On road characteristics and usability are more important then off-road capabilities.... My goal is just a 4" lift in the rear. the axle is originally from an xj so it's 2 3/4" tube plus the spring pack thickness is 1 3/4" plus the delta in spring perch under to over probably 1/2". So basically I'm trying to eliminate 1" of lift. and I'd accomplished this prior with the xj shackle....
  6. Now that I'm looking online, OMIX - ADA sells the one pieces trim seal and says it fits 95-2001, I'm confused though because the rubber on the 97's i've looked at have 2-2.5" of rubber around the window wherease the 96 in my yard is less than 1.25" THe glass shop locally is telling me they show two different gaskets for the different years. Listings 95-96 vs 97-2001
  7. So I've been debating this for awhile and finally got some local quotes to replace the windshield. Of course they told me that I can't use the glass from xxxx years and it has to be for an 89. They did humor me and after some coaxing they gave me prices for the other glass and gasket. From what I've found searching people are stating that all cherokee windshield glass is the same cut and shape, it's just different tinting.... I have a few questions though 1. Does anyone know the tinting area difference between an 89, say mid 90's and then 98 glass? 2. For the seal The 1996 cherokee I have in my drive way has a rubber seal, and it's much narrower than the 97+ seals I've seen, can I have them use this rubber seal on my 89 or am I stuck between the 97+ seal gasket and the original chrome clip pieces?
  8. I haven't been on CC in quite a while. I just saw this video on Youtube and logged in to see what people were saying about this concept. The only thing I like about it is the engine. It looks to not have straight axles front or rear. Because it's based on a car I'm assuming it has a clutched transfercase and is probably 90/10 front wheel drive or of the similar.
  9. FYI I have used the PPR brand previously and have not had any issues. I have never heard of having to trim the the cable it worked fine on mine. The Rugged Ridge ones are just repackaged PPR gears. Thanks for the info. I think I got a ppr one via ebay for 9 dollars shipped. :) will see when/if it arrives.
  10. I pmd. Also need at 39 / 40 for a friend running 4.88 gears and 35" tires.
  11. Found one for 16 dollars shipped using factory part numbers.
  12. 87-90 list different part number than 91-93. On some places I"ve read where people with 88 xj's the square cable was too long and the speedogear wouldn't seat because of it. Like on this ebay listing they state you may have to trim the drive cable, but I'm concerned It would un-ravel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Jeep-33-Tooth-Speedometer-Gear-Long-Shaft-/161519501579?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item259b50010b&vxp=mtr
  13. I'm wondering if people have been successful in trimming their odometer cable length when installing new speedometer gears. Any tricks when trimming? How much did you need to trim off? From everything I've found and read there were two "long shaft" odometer gears. The difference between them is the depth of the shaft hole. So those with electronic ODO could use either but those of use who have cable driven need the deeper hole or need to trim the length of the odometer drive cable. I've found Rugged Ridge is producing them down but their all are the shorter depth long shaft. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm http://www.transmissioncenter.org/speedometer_gears_for_dodge_and_jeep.htm
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