skidoo_j

It's at 7min 37 Seconds. I almost choked on my drink when I saw it.. It's very nice looking. Although the fuel door looks to have interference with the fender flare. Anyone know what color that is?

What I have available at no cost is an MSD 6 digital, an MSD ford TFI coil (8227) or a MSD blaster 2 (8202). There maybe an 8228 that looks like the HO coil too... Please advise

I know the jeep system is hard to improve on, but my ICM is dead and I have a free MSD 6... I called msd and the guy there made it sound like the only way to trigger the MSD is through a working ICM. If this is the case I'll just put the Chinese ICM that I can get at the autoparts in and a factory coil. I would like to run the MSD and Coil I have for free If i can so I don't have any out of pocket on this fix... Does anyone know if the factory ecu square wave input can trigger the MSD6? And if so is it connected to the white wire???? (From MSD manual "This wire is used to connect to breaker points, electronic ignition amplifier output or to the Yellow wire of an MSD Timing Accessory. When this wire is used, the Magnetic Pickup connector is not used.") There are four wires at factory icm ; Ignition ground tach signal d1 ecu square wave input...

They are one of the first I tried. Although this time I tried searching for a chrysler in 89 and I found PS3.. Does anyone know if Jeep in 89 would have painted with chrysler paint codes??? The color chip looks alot darker than my areas under the hood that have not faded..

I've searched all paint suppliers I can find and nothing matches what I'm presuming is the paint code of 427 or ps3 depending on which tag information I'm susposed to use. Either way no numbers on this tag coorespond to any paint codes listed for PPG or any other "factory" paint codes from Jeep. My MJ was made 04/89. I tried finding the paint code as an 88, 89, 90. Nothing in the PPG books have codes that match that I can figure out. Please help

Long story short... I'm SOA in the rear with metric ton springs (4/1) with XJ shackles and ruffstuff 8" perches, I've been running a Stub and Slip shaft (sye w/o the double cardon). I've ran this setup for 5 years and not been happy with the rear suspension. Recently I put the MJ shackle back on and it's night and day difference in the rear, I assume the springs are able to move and flatten more now... I do not want the extra lift that I obtained with the mj shackles installed, and at the same time axle the angle is now wrong, causing drivline vibrations. Correcting angle with shims will give me more lift (3* shim 8" long is min 1/4" lift). But I only want a 4" lift in the rear. The axle is originally from an xj so it's 2 3/4" tube, current spring pack thickness is 1 3/4", plus the delta in spring perch under to over probably 1/2". So basically I'm trying to eliminate 1" of lift that I accomplished prior with the xj shackle.... 6 My goal is just a 4" lift in the rear. the axle is originally from an xj so it's 2 3/4" tube plus the spring pack thickness is 1 3/4" plus the delta in spring perch under to over probably 1/2". So basically I'm trying to eliminate 1" of lift. and I'd accomplished this prior with the xj shackle.... My plan is to put new perches on to correct angle, remove some lift with cutting the perches deeper (currently about 5/16" gap between spring center bolt and axle so I can take 3/16" off here). I'm going to roll the axle and go with a CV style shaft with a double cardon. Do reduce the lift further: I would like to remove the 5/8" thick bottom leaf and leave the top 4 leafs.... I have a set of airbags that are collecting dust that i could then add for when I haul something I don't damage anything. SO here are the questions for input..... How Severe will the axle wrap be? (perch is 8") Would replacing the 5/8" bottom one with one from an xj that's the same length, but 3/16" reduce the wrap enough to benefit? What about possibly using slider boxes in stead of a shackle? On road characteristics and usability are more important then off-road capabilities.... My goal is just a 4" lift in the rear. the axle is originally from an xj so it's 2 3/4" tube plus the spring pack thickness is 1 3/4" plus the delta in spring perch under to over probably 1/2". So basically I'm trying to eliminate 1" of lift. and I'd accomplished this prior with the xj shackle....

Now that I'm looking online, OMIX - ADA sells the one pieces trim seal and says it fits 95-2001, I'm confused though because the rubber on the 97's i've looked at have 2-2.5" of rubber around the window wherease the 96 in my yard is less than 1.25" THe glass shop locally is telling me they show two different gaskets for the different years. Listings 95-96 vs 97-2001

So I've been debating this for awhile and finally got some local quotes to replace the windshield. Of course they told me that I can't use the glass from xxxx years and it has to be for an 89. They did humor me and after some coaxing they gave me prices for the other glass and gasket. From what I've found searching people are stating that all cherokee windshield glass is the same cut and shape, it's just different tinting.... I have a few questions though 1. Does anyone know the tinting area difference between an 89, say mid 90's and then 98 glass? 2. For the seal The 1996 cherokee I have in my drive way has a rubber seal, and it's much narrower than the 97+ seals I've seen, can I have them use this rubber seal on my 89 or am I stuck between the 97+ seal gasket and the original chrome clip pieces?

I haven't been on CC in quite a while. I just saw this video on Youtube and logged in to see what people were saying about this concept. The only thing I like about it is the engine. It looks to not have straight axles front or rear. Because it's based on a car I'm assuming it has a clutched transfercase and is probably 90/10 front wheel drive or of the similar.

FYI I have used the PPR brand previously and have not had any issues. I have never heard of having to trim the the cable it worked fine on mine. The Rugged Ridge ones are just repackaged PPR gears. Thanks for the info. I think I got a ppr one via ebay for 9 dollars shipped. :) will see when/if it arrives.

Let me know on that 38 tooth. I Pm'd already.

I pmd. Also need at 39 / 40 for a friend running 4.88 gears and 35" tires.

Damn!!!

Found one for 16 dollars shipped using factory part numbers.

87-90 list different part number than 91-93. On some places I"ve read where people with 88 xj's the square cable was too long and the speedogear wouldn't seat because of it. Like on this ebay listing they state you may have to trim the drive cable, but I'm concerned It would un-ravel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Jeep-33-Tooth-Speedometer-Gear-Long-Shaft-/161519501579?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item259b50010b&vxp=mtr

I'm wondering if people have been successful in trimming their odometer cable length when installing new speedometer gears. Any tricks when trimming? How much did you need to trim off? From everything I've found and read there were two "long shaft" odometer gears. The difference between them is the depth of the shaft hole. So those with electronic ODO could use either but those of use who have cable driven need the deeper hole or need to trim the length of the odometer drive cable. I've found Rugged Ridge is producing them down but their all are the shorter depth long shaft. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm http://www.transmissioncenter.org/speedometer_gears_for_dodge_and_jeep.htm

I've found a handful of vendors who are selling rugged ridge brand and a ppr brand. I'd like to find an actual Chrysler one so I don't have to trim my odometer cable. Looking for a 37 for myself and a 39 or 40 tooth for friend.

Crazy mine just had a generic factory relay there. Have had two 92 both had just a black relay, this one I'm having issues with had keyless entry. Needless to say I pulled the relay after following the wire schematics and don't see where ill have any ill effects. And everything it seemed to control behaves as if the relay is there.

Thank you very much.

It has a clock, it might be an information center of sorts as there are like 8 wire (estimate) after going over the wire diagrams I'm thinking it's a combo of factory keyless entry and an aftermarket security system that was removed. I'm gonna follow out three wires on schematics in next day or so. But based on what I've seen so far I don't need the relay as it seems it's redundant.

Thank you very much. Ill print them out and figure out my testing. Quick glance it's behaving as it should just need to figure out why relay is getting power when not suppose to.

Regarding the stereo harness. I made a new loom from the factory plug. The connections are good and the wire to wire combos are correct per aftermarket stereo and jeep wire diagrams as well as tested via meter and test light with out that relay connected. The factory stereo loom appears in molested as far back as I can go with out removing dash. I understand wrapped all the tape too, pulled the heat controller for more room. No crossed, pinched, or exposed wires visible. Now the previous owner did use beer can shims in the tail light socket to space an incorrect bulb, so anything is possible. I did also un wrap the wire loom from the relay all the way to the main harness. And non of that was damaged.

With that relay removed the door lights and rear hatch lights work when doors open and close, so what does the relay control? Secondly with that relay removed all wire at the factory wire look behave as expected. I also found that when this relay is plugged in the illumination wire at stereo also receives power (not connected to aftermarket).

Thank you. That's the set of relays. I could feel one clicking when I pressed for the horn. I would greatly appreciate the wire diagram.

Where are the HO gurus...... nobody knows what this relay controls?? Anyone have 93 wire schematics they'll send me? I couldn't find it in the 93 grand Cherokee fsm I had access to, but I only had 20 minutes with that book.