skidoo_j

I always take these every time i'm at the JY. They're great for allowing two switches to control one thing that you don't want back fed to run another.

Anyone have one of these that has a factory roll bar? I'd like to have one, but I have a factory roll bar and would not want to remove the rollbar.

So the city lights turn back on when your high beams are on?

I'll sell a set for half that price. Shipping is free too. :thumbsup: He's got them back at 16 for the moment. ; Do you run yours when your headlights are on?

It has a lot to do with the angle your new arms are functioning under. The truck probably sat stock height for 20 years. During those 20 years the Lower control arm sat parallel to the ground, so the only force on them was typically vertical and would be absorbed by the shocks. Once the truck was lifted those bushing now get beat with front to rear forces and the bushings are absorbing that transfer of energy. I ran rusty's arms for 2 years and burned through two sets of bushings. I then dropped my control arm brackets and have not had a single issue.

Comanche club discount???

It may not be on tv again while I have the free preview of showtime.

There's one in the Movie Sahara. 2005 with Matthew McConaughey. It's when they're loading stuff on top of Grand Wagoneer. They use the comanche in part of the DR's caravan. OMG it gets blown up. Just finished the movie... Tears...

Those are some massive bump stops. I don't think your spare tire hoist will be very safe either... regarding the brake rod, shorter rod, new hole in the lever, or move the mount on the housing down.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

I"ve done four of these conversions now on Dana 44's. I've made my own rings each time and never had an issue. On three of them I used all new bearings and seals. On the third I cut a section out of the ring to slide over the axle shaft as he didn't want to pay for new bearings and we didn't want to risk damaging the lock ring or seals pressing them off. Non of them have leaked. Not even the one that doesn't have a full ring, and he abuses the hell out if his rig. I'm thinking your seals maybe bad, or maybe there is a bur or something. Maybe the seals are installed backwards? The lips go to tire side. The preload rings radiused side goes to seals. here's a photo of an instruction sheet I made for a friend that I made a conversion from from zj brakes.

Red wire would have gone to under hood light. Second wire is hard to tell location based on photo, guessing passenger side near rear of motor so a/c or abs related.

There's no telling what's going on if you've got ghetto wire jobs. It's possible the ign switch is bad, as it sounds like when it goes to start position it's not keeping power to acc. But on the flip side you have to make sure you've got good power to the switch. What year is this rig? sounds like youre going to need the electrical manual and a good multimeter.

Your starter relay would not cause the scenario you've posted. If when you turn your key and you get nothing as described, (no fuel pump, no change in instruments, No blower fan) you need to look at fusible links. If you think they're all good... Check power at the ignition switch. If you don't have power there it's a fusible link or a broken wire(rat seeking warmth?). The power to the ignition does not go through the fuse panel, and that ignition switch powers most of the vehicle, and controls most of all others relays. If you find power on the "hot" side then check for power coming out of the switch when in the on position. If you've got power past the switch then you probably have alot of other issues. This is all assuming your ground points under your dash are clean and connected, but to me sounds more like no power then lack of ground. If the starter relay was bad everything else would power, except it would not turn over, no clicking at the solenoid either. To check this you could bypass the relay, as a test. Be sure you do it with a switched jumper. quick and easy test for your ignition switch: Pull the control wire from the starter relay, Have someone turn the key to "start" and measure for voltage to ground at that contact, if none you don't have power going through the switch as that wire should go direct to the ignition switch with out any splices.

Check your fusible links. If any pull soft they're bad. If all are good pull your ignition switch (the one on the steering column at shin level) check to see if you have power there, if so replace switch, if not check fusible links again. fusible links are mostly all located off the starter relay by the battery. They have an eyelet on one end and then a large rubber bulb, they will burn out in this section and become stretchy.

I like that idea. connect it to an electric valve and into the post filter air.

If I had a/c.... I'd cut a12 out of the ecu. install a relay with pins 30 connected on ecu side and 87 to the truck side. would also wire c2 at the ecu probably with a diode contact a to truck b to ecu c to switch then cut wire d2 and attach a diode with contact a to the truck spliced to pin 85 of the relay. contact c to the diode do your switch and output ( B) to the ecu. final wire to pin 86 to ground. what this would do would allow the override to lock the ecu in constant high rpm with out runing the a/c pump constantly, but would still allow the a/c pump to cycle with the thermostat as designed. If really needed i can draw out a schmatic of this idea and others could comment or use it. Let me know if it's desired.

You've got to have an update by now

Odds are the vacuum lines that open that valve are already gone so plugging it will only ensure no air gets by accident. I'm removed the egr valve and installed a plate there

Update?

Eye to eye is what matters, that's what effects the castor and pinion angle. The bend provides clearance to prevent contact on mount. Some companies have the bend others weld the arm on the bottom of the eye

That would make a difference. I re-read and see (01 clutch master) was stated inside of a quote with the photos. My apologies. based on new info are you comfortable cutting the clutch pedal on the shaft and rotating it and rewelding? I would be more inclined to do that then to bend it up. .

I would assume your clutch grabbing low has to do with the change in the fulcrum by what appears to be over an inch further form the firewall. Even if you bend the pedal lever towards the seat you're not going to gain back the lose of travel for the piston in the clutch master cylinder. A full clutch depression will probably be equal to about half a stock setup.

Go get some marking paint and check your pattern. It's pretty cheap. I'm no gear expert by any means but as Timeless stated above they look pretty rough, and for only 45miles on the gears that does seem like alot of shavings considering based on your story this is the third time the pumpkins been opened and drained in that period. I'm assuming new fluid with each change? Can you feel backlash? Based on the photos and the way it's wearing I'd be guessing the backlash is too tight, but then again it'd difficult to make any judgements because there's no marking paint and we're just looking at gear wear from 45 miles. here's a great video on differentiating patterns. And if you're wanting to check things out further on your own http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ and http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/installation-instructions

If I paid a shop to install a gear set and i found them to have installed the carrier with out any preload when I went back if they did not bend over backwards to correct the issue and ensure there were no problems I would be stopping payment on the install and parts. If you provided the parts they may not care enough to fix the issue or could care less. Small claims before they go under... But you will need another professional shop to state it was installed incorrectly and hopefully you have paperwork on the fact you went back in and they had to add shims to the carrier. In my home town my fathers best friend had his oil changed at a local oil shop, they forgot the oil plug. Needless to say they replaced the engine and it never went to court. Not a wives tail either.