skidoo_j

That's why I said assume :thumbsup: . My father used to run in truck pulls and told me they would run different brand gears to get the front spinning faster then the rear. I was just wondering if it was common practice. also omix ada has a 4.09 4.10 and 4.11 for the 44. Granted some are reverse cut. and they also change for thick cut too.

The question is only questioning theory not availability of products. Assume: Dana 44 front and rear, both are low pinion so they both take standard cut gears. The carrier is the same in both axles. There are 4.09, 4.10, and 4.11 gears available through one vendor. Assume all manufactures and gears are equal in quality. What is the best combo? 4.09 up front with 4.11 in rear so front pulls rear? 4.09 Up front with 4.10 in rear so front pulls rear but closer in ratio? matched gears front and rear.. 4.11 up front with 4.09 in rear, rear pushes front etc... I'm under the impression you want the front tires to spin faster then the rear when in 4wd so it encourages turning as the fronts will pull into the turn better. You can select multiple options in the poll.

He doesn't have it listed in my area anylonger. You might give him a call. It's not mine that's why i posted it in the "NOT YOUR STUFF"

Both companies have the rd116 for 630. That's the one for the dana 44 4 series carrier with 30 spline axles. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/ARB/Differential/ARBRD116.html

I wish this was an elocker at this price. I'd be ordering one then. I just don't want to add air.

ARB AIR LOCKER DANA 30 27 SPLINE 3.73 & UP (RD100)

Working to get a whole front wj axle, i'll let you know if it pans out.

Yukon gear sells a set. It includes all known seals and a block off plate. ya w391470-kit 21364 upc code: 883584213642 I'm sure you can find it cheaper, or make one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-21364 Just an fyi I researched all the possible seals and bought them all. A buddy of mine had that kit, I made my own plate, but the seal i needed was $20. Seals I found in various forums more ** means mentioned more times. I don't recall which i ended up using cr11800 **NOS 11343 NOS11777 ** 40576S / NOS 11771 NOS 18050 / 203006S NOS 11899

Why change to the Durango Gear box? It's gearing is higher (3 turns vs 3.3 on stock from stop to stop). It does have a larger piston but I'm wondering if the reduction in gearing would counter the strength "upgrade". Would it technically increase the torque required at the steering wheel, or am I missing something because of the hydraulics? Just looking at if the additional $60 between them for a re-manufactured is worth it.

Ended up actually breaking a nipple off the windsheild washer resivoir.. Threw a whole gallon of rainx all over the brand new Blower motor! :thumbsup: Nothing a screw couldnt fix though~ Are you talking about your coolant tank???? that is antifreeze not windshield washer reservoir.

I got mine new from autozone for $25 and had to solder the plug on. A month later bought one for my brother from autozone and it already had the plug. Takes about 40 minutes if you are really careful and clean things in that area. Can be tricky to maneuver through the hoses near the purge tank. Ended up having to replace one on my brothers as we tweaked the rubber enough to initiate a small leak.

Don't have the input gear, but i do have a six planet planetary from a dodge for the newer cut . If interested make me an offer.

pm me

THere is a 2 door cherokee in southern oregon. 2.5 tornado. Guy wants to get rid of it asap. it's a 4x4. not sure what axle was in rear, but the track lock failed and the rear wheels will only turn one turn back and forth, could be cross shaft out ??? never opened it. PM me and I'll get you his contact info.

I too am running the Redline MT 90. I would recommend it over the 10/30 as well. Mine is quiet and shifts very smooth.

I run the IPF housings with some $5 a set bulbs from ebay that claim to be 100 watt low beam. I did a relay power upgrade for the light loom at the same time.. My brother has the Hella housings with some 55watt bulbs using stock harness. I do not have comparison photos between the two, but my lighting is better but that could be purely because of my wiring. The glass in the Hella housings does appear to be much thicker and just slightly better constructed. Here are some comparison photos of my truck with stock bulbs and wiring vs upgraded harness and then the H4 conversion with IPF housings. The photos are of a single bulb so that the light dispersion is easier to compare. I tired to aim the brightest point of light on the same point of the tree, so when the lows are installed of course the light would be more spread on the ground. The camera was set in manual mode with a fixed aperture and shutter speed to keep all exposures equal to show difference in bulbs and all photos were taken with in 3 minutes. Low Beam Sylvania Bulbs Stock wiring: Low Beam Sylvania Bulbs New Harness with Relays(same bulb as above, I couldn't believe the difference ): Low Beam IPF housing, $5 Bulb with Harness: High Beam Sylvania Bulb Stock Wiring : High Beam Sylvania Bulb Harness High Beam IPF housing $5 bulb w/ harness:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/City-Park-parking-lights-turn-signals-for-H4-headlights-/330423090912?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ceec03ee0&vxp=mtrApparently the city lights are in the "rare" category. at $216 dollars now. The seller is the only person I've found with them. I've been watching his postings for over a month now, and he's actually sold a set at this price.

The last contact i had with the seller was that he'd decided to keep it until he got back from where ever he was going. Was going to store with a family member. So it's still technically for sale i guess. I'm thinking he went to mexico for some research or maybe it was in the rain forest. Either way he was going to be there for a year before they had to reapply for grants. Don't know the guy, he was just doing some interesting research so we conversed for a while.

Don't know where you're at but i've got one for sale too.

I love mine. I installed the terra 2-lo as the same time. Best part about the novak system is if the engine starts torquing it doesn't pop out of gear like it would with the stock set up. It's really easy to adjust. I've not had one complaint other then the purchase price.

Here's pic of the novak bracket mounted to tunnel and attached to lever in cab. the other bracket is there and just uses the top two studs off the transfercase (you can see the holes, but the transfercase is removed in this picture) Post install I added some fender washers to the bolts holding the bracket to the tunnel on the cab side. One of my holes was oblong, and i don't have carpet so i didnt want to look at it.

the novak shift comes with all the bolts you need for the tunnel. the bracket mounts to the transfercase studs. the lever on the transfercase will only fit/function one way. would be pretty hard to install incorrectly once you're under there. I'll look through my pictures... not sure if i took in progress or just finished shots.

Setting up gears is not that bad. The biggest thing with used gears is you want the pattern as close to the exact set as before. Alot of times this is not possible but is optimal. What I did was paint the old gears i was re using for pattern and took lots of photos at different angles of the pattern so I could try my best to match it. It just adds one more thing to setting the backlash and pattern. I would suggest you get new bearings even with used gears. Take your old bearings and sand them so you can make some "setup bearings" It will make setting your shims much easier. Keep in mind the dana 30 is shimmed inside of the bearings, so the bearings have to be pulled each time from the carrier When setting the pinion don't install the baffle spacer until you're 100 percent sure, because it is a pita to get out with out damaging it.

Looks similar to my start.

Would you happen to have part numbers? I'm not finding them on their website or with a generic search or euro or ecode for cherokee.