Alex V.

Sorry, the drive from Kentucky would make pricing a little more than competitive. :)

Just need a good oil pan for a 2.5. Whatcha got?

No problem!

I have the Gambler wheel, but I'm in central KY so not sure if shipping is prohibitive.

I can't give any numbers, but I know the Muncie (SM465) will stomp all over just about anything else except more recent truck transmissions, and the T10 was used in Corvettes equipped with 300+ HP small blocks, as well as 400+ HP big blocks if I'm not mistaken. The AX-15 may be durable in our 200 HP MJ's and XJ's, but I think I can safely say the other two were put behind engines, from the factory, with twice that much output. Also, the SM465 and T10 are suitable for two very different applications - don't expect the T10 to hold up to being driven like a dump truck, and don't expect to the SM to like speed-shifting.

Looking for the passenger-outer axle shaft for a vacuum disconnect Dana 30 with normal U-joints, not CV joints - it's going in an '84 XJ, FWIW. Specs below. Overall length: 16 1/2" Diameter of splined end: 1 9/16" Number of splines: 15

I know this question has been asked many times before, but here it is again: Will the 2WD front axle out of my '90 MJ bolt right into an '84 4WD XJ? If at all possible I plan to use the XJ control arms, springs, shocks, and track bar, but leave the MJ tie rods on the 2WD axle. And will the XJ brake calipers work on the MJ rotors (or will the XJ rotors fit on the MJ hubs), so I don't have to unhook/swap the calipers between the two? And as to why I'm doing this - I need to keep the XJ on the road while I'm rebuilding the live front axle. Thanks!

If the A/C compressor is positioned the same as on an '84 XJ, a deep-well spark plug socket (put on by hand, from the rear, underneath the radiator hose, between the valve cover and compressor) u-joint extension snapped onto that, and a short straight extension on top of that works pretty well. I've had #1 plug out a number of times on our '84 2.5-powered XJ, as recently as last week. It's not easy and you may have to fight with the radiator hose a bit, but if our rigs are set up the same it can (theoretically) be done. They changed the layout of the accessories on the engine a little by 1990, when mine was built - #1's right out in the open. :D

What's the procedure for adjusting the kickdown linkage on an '84 XJ Cherokee? It's a Chrysler 3-speed auto w/lockup torque converter, and a carbureted 2.5L in front of it. This has a lever from the throttle linkage bracket on the side of the intake manifold to the transmission, not a cable. Thanks.

Carter YFA, if I'm not mistaken; it's some variation of a YF. Oh, yeah - reading the O2's output is the first thing I've done on it. I'm just optomistic that a new sensor will fix it, and I won't have to dive into the maze of wires and vacuum lines surrounding the carb. :D

Okay, finally got a chance to check the reading from the 02 sensor, and here's what I came up with. All readings are taken with the digital multimeter grounded to the battery terminal, positive probe contacting the harness side of the plug (not the sensor side of the plug) with everything hooked up/plugged in. Engine off, key on: .09V Engine idling: .90V Engine held around 2,000-2,200 RPM?: Slowly falls from .90V to .50V or less. Verdict?

Thanks, jimoshel. I have a digital multimeter, and I'll go through that procedure when I can get the time.

Any ideas, anyone? (Bump. :D )

Yup, it's a 1-wire deal in the exhaust manifold, and my guess is it inputs to the computer which controls a solenoid on the side of the carb.

What procedures are necessary to troubleshoot the oxygen sensor on an '84 XJ with the feedback carbureted 2.5L?