Alex V.

Sorry, the drive from Kentucky would make pricing a little more than competitive. :)

Just need a good oil pan for a 2.5. Whatcha got?

No problem!

I have the Gambler wheel, but I'm in central KY so not sure if shipping is prohibitive.

I can't give any numbers, but I know the Muncie (SM465) will stomp all over just about anything else except more recent truck transmissions, and the T10 was used in Corvettes equipped with 300+ HP small blocks, as well as 400+ HP big blocks if I'm not mistaken. The AX-15 may be durable in our 200 HP MJ's and XJ's, but I think I can safely say the other two were put behind engines, from the factory, with twice that much output. Also, the SM465 and T10 are suitable for two very different applications - don't expect the T10 to hold up to being driven like a dump truck, and don't expect to the SM to like speed-shifting.

Looking for the passenger-outer axle shaft for a vacuum disconnect Dana 30 with normal U-joints, not CV joints - it's going in an '84 XJ, FWIW. Specs below. Overall length: 16 1/2" Diameter of splined end: 1 9/16" Number of splines: 15

I know this question has been asked many times before, but here it is again: Will the 2WD front axle out of my '90 MJ bolt right into an '84 4WD XJ? If at all possible I plan to use the XJ control arms, springs, shocks, and track bar, but leave the MJ tie rods on the 2WD axle. And will the XJ brake calipers work on the MJ rotors (or will the XJ rotors fit on the MJ hubs), so I don't have to unhook/swap the calipers between the two? And as to why I'm doing this - I need to keep the XJ on the road while I'm rebuilding the live front axle. Thanks!

If the A/C compressor is positioned the same as on an '84 XJ, a deep-well spark plug socket (put on by hand, from the rear, underneath the radiator hose, between the valve cover and compressor) u-joint extension snapped onto that, and a short straight extension on top of that works pretty well. I've had #1 plug out a number of times on our '84 2.5-powered XJ, as recently as last week. It's not easy and you may have to fight with the radiator hose a bit, but if our rigs are set up the same it can (theoretically) be done. They changed the layout of the accessories on the engine a little by 1990, when mine was built - #1's right out in the open. :D

What's the procedure for adjusting the kickdown linkage on an '84 XJ Cherokee? It's a Chrysler 3-speed auto w/lockup torque converter, and a carbureted 2.5L in front of it. This has a lever from the throttle linkage bracket on the side of the intake manifold to the transmission, not a cable. Thanks.

Carter YFA, if I'm not mistaken; it's some variation of a YF. Oh, yeah - reading the O2's output is the first thing I've done on it. I'm just optomistic that a new sensor will fix it, and I won't have to dive into the maze of wires and vacuum lines surrounding the carb. :D

Okay, finally got a chance to check the reading from the 02 sensor, and here's what I came up with. All readings are taken with the digital multimeter grounded to the battery terminal, positive probe contacting the harness side of the plug (not the sensor side of the plug) with everything hooked up/plugged in. Engine off, key on: .09V Engine idling: .90V Engine held around 2,000-2,200 RPM?: Slowly falls from .90V to .50V or less. Verdict?

Thanks, jimoshel. I have a digital multimeter, and I'll go through that procedure when I can get the time.

Any ideas, anyone? (Bump. :D )

Yup, it's a 1-wire deal in the exhaust manifold, and my guess is it inputs to the computer which controls a solenoid on the side of the carb.

What procedures are necessary to troubleshoot the oxygen sensor on an '84 XJ with the feedback carbureted 2.5L?

Okay, thanks. I'll see what I can fab up.

Took the '90 SporTruck to work today (38 miles, total) and it stayed in one piece and didn't give me a bit of trouble. The engine has pretty bad blow-by (had to disconnect the PCV hose from the air cleaner box just to prevent having an oil-bath air cleaner) but seems to run pretty well at speed; however, idle is a different story. It starts and idles fine when cold (and very smooth, save for a slight "lope"), but the warmer it gets the rougher the idle gets. It'll stay running and doesn't stumble when you accelerate, but it's got a bad miss when you come off the highway. One of the intake manifold bolts was missing and I didn't check all the others to make sure they were tight, and I suspect that's where my problem lies. But aside from the intake gasket, is there any electrical component that will show these symptoms? Thanks in advance. :wrench:

That's likely true. This hose is rectangular, but I can still make one easy enough. If you could take a look for a stock one, though, I'd appreciate it. :D

I'm looking for the cold air intake hose for an '84 XJ w/2.5L. This is the carbureted 2.5L, and I think one from an '85 or early '86 will fit, as well, but not sure of that. In central MO. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies and suggestions, and sorry I've been so long in replying. With a little troubleshooting and investigating, I got all the lights on the Comanche fixed; the parking light was a ground issue (the small strip of metal that grounds against the bulb socket had rusted in half - made a new one of those) and the blinker was just a faulty connection where the pins go into the back of the socket. I tied up the other loose ends and it passed inspection on Monday, and all that's keeping me from driving it now is the bent driveshaft - it becomes noticeable at about 30 MPH and is pretty prominent at 55-60. I've located one at a salvage yard about 60 miles away, so if all goes well I should be driving it to work in a few days or so and slowly fixing the little 2.5's problems. (A manifold gasket, VC gasket, and fan belt will be some of the first things, then seeing what I can do about the blow-by and mild peck in the engine.) Judging by the amount of gas it's used in the 50 miles I've driven it close to home so far, I think it's doing very well on gas. :cheers: More later!

My '90 SporTruck is almost ready to be licensed, but I have an electrical/lighting issue that isn't making itself obvious: Every exterior light works as it should except for the pass. parking light and marker light, and the driver's front blinker - aka, I have one front parking/marker light and one front blinker, but they're on opposite sides. The things I've checked/ruled out are: Both bulbs are new and I've switched them side-to-side (rules out a faulty bulb) Both flasher relays on the fuse box appear to be good - the hazard flashers work, and I've switched the relays around with no change in symptoms I'm not sure about the faulty blinker (didn't get a definite reading on it with my multi-meter), but the terminal in the non-working parking light socket has over 11 volts going to it - seems like it should be lighting the bulb??? A friend suggested it's a ground issue, but it seems if a ground was the problem the light wouldn't burn at all, or more lights wouldn't work. I wiggled the bulbs in the sockets and pressed them down while the lights were on, but still nothing. There are still several things I need to check before I'm out of ideas, but is there anything MJ-specific I need to know to troubleshoot this problem comprehensively? Thanks!

Thanks for the links/references, Comanche County. I'll sift through those and see what I can find. FWIW, when you shut it off, you don't have to be looking at the throttle shaft to tell it does it - you can hear it pretty distinctively "rrrr, click-click-click". As to the plugs under the dash, the way they were dangling led me to conclude they were originally hooked up to something, but it doesn't look like the truck ever had fog lights, a bed light, or AW4. I'll probably replace the floorpans sooner rather than later - not immediately, as I bought the truck to be a functional, economical DD that I don't feel bad about getting/leaving dirty (unlike the all-original, 100,000-mile GMC) so I won't be putting a priority on making it cosmetically perfect anytime soon - but I won't let it get out of hand. neohic: It's a '67 C10... ready? ...3-door Suburban. 327/4-speed with all heavy duty/tow options, PS/PB, and Custom trim. My dad bought it in the mid 80's and it was the family DD until '01 when its third 327 dropped a valve, and it's been out of service ever since. He needed to sell it last fall and I had the money/didn't want to see it go, so it's now mine and has a recently rebuilt '79 350 sitting in it that's just waiting on me to hook it up. :wrench: airspeed: Yes, I've noticed the plunger is what changes the idle, and it does start at a higher RPM then settle down after a few seconds. It doesn't like to drop back to idle immediately when shifting gears (which may be related to this same system) but that's something to iron out after I get it running better and licensed. Thanks for the help, and I'm sure I'll be back for more!

Hello, all. I just acquired a 1990 Comanche, and have a few questions for ya'll. But first, a little about the truck... It's a '90 SporTruck, 2.5L/AX4, 2WD, shortbed, 3.55's, with 181,000 miles. I hope to license it in the next week or two to use as my DD and runaround/work vehicle in place of my '85 GMC C3500; I'm still keeping the Oneton, but the Comanche is much better suited to the country 2-lane roads (less cumbersome and rides better) I do most of my driving on and will have to get better gas mileage than my current figure of 11.5. (Hey, the 454 ain't all bad - I towed the Comanche home with it.) Image Not Found Cosmetically, a lot of the clear coat is flaking/wearing off, the bottom of both doors and rocker panels under the doors are rusty, and there are small-dinner-plate-size holes on the outside of the frame "rail" in the front of both floorboards, but it's still solid otherwise and the bed has almost no rust on it. Mechanically, it runs and drives, but the engine has a slight miss and an intermittent knock. I was told the engine had a rod knocking before I bought it so that wasn't a surprise, but I haven't positively determined it's a rod, as opposed to a lifter, etc. - as soon as it's licensed I'll drive it to my preferred mechanic and get his opinion on it. The tranny feels good and, aside from the track bar being worn completely out, it drives pretty well. I think I did pretty well for $450. :thumbsup: I think I can handle the mechanical issues, but there are a few things I need some help on. First off, there are three plugs under the dash (see photo) that are unplugged. The Jeep had a few things robbed off of it (fan shroud, temp. sending unit) and I think whatever these hooked up to was one of those pieces. Any ideas? Image Not Found Also, when you shut it off, after the engine stops the TBI quickly "pumps" the throttle butterfly three times. I've never been around a Renix Jeep before, nor many other early EFI rigs; is it supposed to do this? Thanks! Alex