skidoo_j

Tap a wire off the high beams to control a second relay. When the high beams are on they will break the normally closed position on he relay and turn off your fogs. like this: diagram by skidoo_j, on Flickr

Now that he's decided that straps are better then chains, who has used the harbor freight recovery straps? are they any good or better off saving for two weeks to get a branded strap? Who's got the best straps for the money both towing and kinetic recovery straps?

I was more entertained by the fact he used the rear drum as the front chock block.

literally or it may fall on the ground.

Just a little diff fluid. Probably not enough to be worried about, but when you go to put the shaft back in you will probably have to remove your CAD and align the shift collar. When you're all done you can check your front diff fluid when the truck is siting on it's own weight on level ground. pull plug in front diff. gear oil should drip out the whole when full.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151838278278276&set=a.10151838277828276.1073741828.209865163275&type=3&theater it's their garage sale!!!

you will need to remove the valve from the line and plumb a single line at rear if you plug the block up front(can use existing line, but must connect directly to flex line in rear). if you don't your fluid will come up the line under the hood you disconected

Just replace the load sensing valve with a tee and leave the front block alone, I guess that would make bleeding the system nearly impossible though, better plug and eliminate.

Have you fit the banks or clifford header to a renix era 4.0? they're only listing that they fit the ho with the different head. I'd love to change to a clifford or banks, but I don't want to have to replace the top end of the motor to do so.

To my knowledge if you're wanting pre-made flares you are stuck with stock as your only choice if you don't want extended flares. Or you could make some out of the landscape edging. Otherwise the only two companies i've encountered that have flares designed to fit the comanche with minimal fitment: Bushwackers cut outs provide like 5 or six inches of coverage. Napier precision provide 3.25" of coverage. rusty's off road makes some but last time i looked they didn't have photos showing what theirs looked like. Also they don't claim they will fit the comanche

Was the cliford gasket steel cored? The felpro one is, but is like an aerated card board over it. The exhaust ports have a metal ring on them. The felpro is 1000x better then the paper gasket that came with my dynomax headers. But I like the 1/8" thick idea

That is correct. The actual seals for the differential are as i noted above; driver is located at pumpkin, passenger is outside the shift collar if you have the split shaft otherwise it too is at pumpkin on 91+axles. The plastic thing out by the knuckles does not make any seal whats so ever think of it more as a slinger for larger debris . The tube sealer thing i sent a link for is purely aftermarket and is just added security for someone who just put a lot of money into it and is paranoid in my opinion, or maybe they're like my friend who continuously thinks his Cherokee is a boat and floats the damn thing.

Yup that's just a piece of plastic to try and keep large debris out of the tubes. On the drivers side the seal is at the pumpkin, on the passenger side if you have the two piece shaft the seal is outward of the shift collar. On the rear axle the seals are on the outside of the tubes. If you've changed the passenger side shaft to a single piece there are aluminum inserts with 3 seals in them to really keep debris out of your tubes. If i recall they're made by alloy and a few other manufactures, but they're not needed. Here's a quick search of what I'm referring to Outer Seals but remember they won't work with the two piece passenger side. When I finish with my front axle (converting the two to one piece shaft) I will pick a set of the alloy seals just because I'll be installing a locker at the same time and hey 4 seals is better then 1 right :)

Your joints are fine the c is tapered at the end that's why it looks crooked, as long as the lip is seated flush to the mounting side. Looks just like mine did after installing moogs. I used a washer to take up the castle nut problem like Hornbred suggested. If I recall correctly the hole in the moogs was a big further down the shaft then the stock, but the taper lengths were perfect. I too went down the road replacing ball joints and tie rods to chase death wobble. What it ended up being was death to my wallet. While I ignored all others recommendations that it was my tires. I took them in a handfull of times to get balanced. I'd leave Les Schwab and a few miles down the road i'd have an experience so I'd replace a new part, get an alignment and balance tires again; still issue. Swapped tires and wheels with my brother's cherokee and the problem went to his cherokee. After some yelling at a manager that even after I'd been in there 7 times in 2 weeks for balance they didn't think anything was wrong, he agreed to to a "road force" balance for free. During all seven trips in to them I'd never thrown a weight, but they always changed weights and placements. They had just performed a standard "spin balance", their "road force" applies pressure to them while spinning. The tires were at 80% tread but were so bad they set off alarms on their machines. They broke the tire down and rotated the tire 6 times then claimed my wheels were tweaked so they ran them out; showing no problems. They would not warranty the tires either claiming they were "off road tires" and that I must have damaged all four tires; although they'd never been off the pavement at that time. Got some Good year Duratracs from a different retailer and swore I'd never buy another set of their crappy tires or use their service again and have not had an issue since. Sorry for the long story just check your tires and get them to do a "road force" balance. Or get a set of tires from someone else and see if issue goes away.

Looks to be in decent shape.

I love the school room chair for a passenger seat. He didn't even have to paint it yellow.

That would just let the heat from the engine bay into the cab of the truck. The Idea behind the intake is it would pull air through the cowl that's already there for your heating system.

I'd thought of using that one under the bed where the load valve is now, but decided if I'm doing the dual diaphragm upgrade might as well replace the distribution block up front. This way I don't have to plug any ports.

It's pretty simple. You disconnect the one you currently have and replace it with this one. and eliminate the rear ufo looking thing above the axle with either all new line to the front or with a coupler for brake lines. I plan to do it at the same time I upgrade to the dual diaphragm because I don't know if my load valve in the rear can handle the extra pressure, plus I'm putting zj disc brakes on the 44 at the same time too.

both the Willwood and the SSBC have pressure switches to control brake lights... I guess if I mess up on the flat spot during the dual conversion I have a back up option.

Getting ready to place my order for a proportioning valve. I'm looking or rather found SSBC A0730 at $93 through Amazon or willwood 260-11179 for $71 through amazon. I was wondering if anyone has experience with either? I know both companies have a very good reputation. And I've seen a few of the willwood ones installed on this site. Any other brands out there? For those that don't know what these are for they will connect right out of the master cylinder, a single line will go to rear axle and the weight valve in the rear is removed. The benefit of using something like this is when weight is put in I still have the ability to increase pressure to rear brakes.

Nice pictures of lokar ec-81fc I couldnt find any to reference in my post.

I picked up some cables that were about 10" longer during my D44 install awhile back (part Dorman c93113).. They have the factory jeep ends as I used them on my d44 drums. I just made adapters for my disc brake conversion so i can use these same cables with the cylinder ends on the hook style pull that's on the zj and ford disc brakes. Here's Links : lokar ec-81fc through most autoparts places like jegs http://www.nwjeepn.com/images/Axle/Ebrakeadapter.pdf http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97226 and pics of mine.

maybe that is a good price in detroit then.... http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/cto/3987886913.html very nice: http://bend.craigslist.org/cto/3913828651.html http://roseburg.craigslist.org/cto/3932156060.html http://medford.craigslist.org/cto/3945304100.html http://medford.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=commanche+%7C+comanchee+%7C+comanche&catAbb=cta&zoomToPosting=&srchType=A&minAsk=&maxAsk=

Hard to say based on the photos, The bed is in great shape!!! There are comanches around my area for less in better overall shape, but thhey don't have a D44 or MT springs (otherwise i'd bought them) I don't mind the calico paint job, but you'd have to look to see how things were repaired around the rear wheel wells. Looks like a great starting place though. I'd probably offer 1200.