81Chero

I traded a crx for a 96 2-door Cherokee from a guy who thought he had a rod knock. I knew it was just the timing chain guides. So got it home and sure enough, whoever did the timing chain didn't pull the pin in the tensioner! (4cyl but same concept)

It's pretty rough, but I've seen worse!

Thank you. Haven't purchased the truck yet, because it's almost an hour away. I did source a D44 from an 88 comanche a few years ago. and have a selection of carriers/gear sets spanning a few decades, so as long as they didn't change the internal workings I should be good. Also have a pair of 44's from an older Cherokee. But they're 2.93:1(?) I also have a 2.5 that I had some machining done to, and might even use that. It's been sitting several years, so who knows what I'll find lol.. Again, thanks.

I'm in the process of buying it. Owner said that the day he got it, he drove for aprx 60 miles and it used almost a whole tank of gas! So he parked it, and hasn't done anything more with it. It's got the 2.8 and I've read that the 3.4 is a lot better engine, and swaps right in. But what else is "special" about it? Anyone know what the gears usually were in the 86's? It's not in the best shape. And figured it will need a new fuel tank. At the time I couldn't see the rear axle, so could it have a Dana 44 in back? Can anything be deciphered from the VIN? I know it's on my phone but can't find it 😡 Thanks for the help.

THANK YOU! I'd 'almost' give you a hug! I thought in '93 they changed the cluster to its own "system"? And thought the ECU needed to see oil pressure to energize the fuel pump.(?) I just unplugged the harness. So shouldn't have anything that was cut or not there. Waiting on blasting the serpentine brackets to get blasted, and painted. So I'll have a bit more room to pull wires around. Thanks again.

First off, didn't want to jack someones thread. And didn't want to get goofy answers like on some of the 'other' forums. And did a 'search' that mostly comes up talking points rather than actual pin-outs and or CLEAR, well lit pictures. It's a '93 2dr XJ. 2wd 4cy/5spd, 8.25 Ordered Novak mounts and 'test fit' the 350. But AFTER getting the mounts, the instructions say that you can delete most all the wiring including the engine/ECU. I would've thought that one could run a piggy back kind of harness integrated to stock Jeep harness. I've looked through Novak's site and the only wiring info I see is for the Gen 2+ (to purcha$) NOTHING as to getting gauges to read correctly and adapting air conditioning.. I'm wanting to use the mid-90's serpentine drive system that I already have. And Yes, I know how to get a chevy running with an HEI. Simple stuff. And have done it many times past. But wanting to make a nice little sleeper Jeep that's not all cobbled together causing electrical gremlins down the road. Like most, I dislike wiring and over 50+yrs have learned to either pay or just get the bare minimum to run. But want it reliable enough to sell and not worry. Oh, and swapping in a chevy TBI fuel pump and just use a return style regulator like I did on my '95 Chevy 2500HD. EASY PEASY!! I'm SURE that someone here has swapped a Chevy V8 here, but was hoping still has the wiring schematic that didn't get held hostage by Photobucket or the like.. Please help. Would really like to get this running in the next few weeks. Thanks

Have you got the engine in yet? or even gotten into the wiring?? I've got a '93 XJ. 2wd, 2dr, 4cyl/5spd, 8.25(4.1) that i've already got the novak mounts and 350 sitting in and T-5, 5spd. (just have to swap the tail to a S-10 mid-shifter to get it in the right position) Doesn't look all that bad or complicated, or "expensive" at all, and really don't know how different the engine compartment and wiring is to a MJ? I'm staying 2wd. So, driveshaft and make a angled trans mount. I had a 88 and EVERYTHING looked the same from what I remembered. (it's gone a while ago) I've got several projects going on and have you looked at the AR-5 from a Colorado, Canyon? I'm going to get out in the shop and see if the bellhousing swaps over to the NV3550 (removable bellhousing from a Dakota) I'm using the 3550. But the bolt pattern to the trans body looks really close. The early and later 4.0 jeep bellhousing will swap to the 3550. But you have to decide if you want the internal or external slave. (not that expensive or big of a problem) Plus the bell bolts to the early AMC V8's!!

"?"... It's just the diff/carrier, not the whole axle. But he somehow kept the pinion and side adjusters spotless.. I thought of just soaking it in Diesel fuel to get the grime softened, spend a quarter at the car wash, take it home, blow it dry spray it down with WD or blaster and put in a couple plastic bags. Just never had a 8.25 apart to know what the friction plates/discs were coated with and didn't want to degrade/prematurely damage the clutch packs, thinking of like auto tranny clutch packs. That came with a whole 'nother 29 spline axle with 3.55's that had everything shaved off and spring perches repositioned, ALL for a whoppin 75.00 So, now I'll have 3 gear sets, 3.07, 3.55, 3.73 to choose from. (the trac-lok has the 3.73 gearing) and two axles. Thanks again guys. E

Hey Guys, Picked up a 8.25 track-lok diff from a guy that had it for a project that changed directions and it had been sitting for quite some time and has dusty kind of dirt all over it. What would be the best way to clean it? I wanted to take it apart and see if it needed any new parts and since I was in there I'd thought I'd help it if i could. Since it's a clutch style I don't want to use a solvent if that's going to degrade the surfaces. Otherwise I thought of just taking it to a car wash and spraying it down with Blaster after.. What do you guys think? Thanks Errol

Oversize Oil Filters (3/4"x16 thread) 5.178" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER AC-Delco PF2 Motorcraft FL-1A Purolator L30001 Napa 1515 Wix 51515 Mopar L-72 L-326, L-526, L-55, L-1007, L-138 Baldwin B118 Hastings LF115 Mobil 1 M1-301 Amsoil EaO15 Donaldson P550008 6.93" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER AC-Delco PF42 Motorcraft FL299 Purolator L40017 Napa 1773 Wix 51773 Mopar L-526 Thanks again Hornbrod. That's good info. (should be in the DIY section) I've used Amsoil for over 20yrs in most everything. If I get a high mileage vehicle, I over fill it some with Rotella 15w40 and some seafoam or marvel just to see what's going on with temp or leaks and then after flushing a few times, i switch to amsoil and EA filter 10w30 or 0w20 since It doesn't get that cold here. then change it once or twice a year and filters inbetween. NEVER had an issue. Errol

I don't mean to jack, but I'm going from a 96 8.25 with 4.10's and just picked up another 8.25 that was 'shaved' for a wrangler I think, but has 3.55's . And came with an extra track-lok carrier and 3.73's. I don't know if I should go with the 3.55's or 3.73's with my little 4cyl. My Comanche Pioneer has the 2.5 and 'miser' edition with 3.31's. I think I'll try the 3.55's and see what mileage I get. (the Comanche get's upwards of 25+) 90Mj, I think you would like the 3.55's with a 6cyl. E

http://imageshack.com/a/img907/3852/PfTnjx.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img903/4586/duEia2.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img911/7601/2UObab.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img910/4057/6ypJO2.jpg gotta jet off to work.

Besides wiring, I hate computers too. Just spent over two hours trying to post this crap and well, crap.

Had it all written out and for some reason it posted HUGE pics from Imageshack, clicked on "POST" and got this: You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community. What the heck over?

I just think he didn't want to work on it and was pacifying me.. BUT, that still doesn't tell me why that when I hit the 'high' beams it just shut them off. ANYONE know that? Cruiser, I got a H4 harness from Ebay with the two relay's, to which I assume that one is for each light instead of low and high beams..? I'll try and post better pics tomorrow before work. Thanks again. Errol