A-man930

"This is why we can't have nice things!"

Back when I was more seriously considering a turbo I measured a Sprinter intercooler. I'll have to find the pics

I've been hoping to try exactly this.

Seems like too much to me

So if the inspector knows his stuff a visual inspection would reveal a later intake. Sounds like a problem to me... Are you required to actually retain the Renix controls? If so you'd have to keep the Renix throttle body and adapt it to a late intake bolt pattern or adapt the Renix's TPS and IAC to a late intake's HO throttle body. Another hurdle. Not to knock on the Renix system (can't do that here without lots of flak :D ), it's served many of us well, but it's archaic. To drop the cash for Edelbrock's fancy new head only to be handcuffed by an engine management system that old and "un-tuneable" (is that a word?) is, um, less than ideal imho. I don't want to recommend anything illegal, but a different engine management system (*cough* MEGASQUIRT *cough*) with wideband support and the like running the show would make your investment much more sensible.

Intrigued

I've been considering this exact project. Because (as I understand it) you are pretty well stuck with the late interior panel; I can't speak for the OP but I don't want to mismatch the interior like that or deal with the early glovebox door that won't fully open against the late door panel arm rest / grab handle thingeys. I've also heard multiple accounts of folks realizing that it isn't as easy a swap as it may appear. :dunno:

Not knowing the numbers off the top of my head I'd question how much of that "modern combustion chamber" benefit you'll actually realize with a Renix intake feeding it... But I do agree the weight savings and improved heat rejection of the alloy head is very attractive. Would it be possible to introduce an EGR passage into a better intake? What exactly are you restricted on in the People's Republic of Cali?

I secretly wish I had a 4cyl... Good lookin ride man.

I have the same problem on mine and I do the same thing (relieve the tension with the pedal) before I pull the release. The local dealer said the cable isn't available.

I'd take a good long look at a hardware store and/or local old-school parts house. No advice aside from that. Good luck!

I'm fixin' to get those exact tires here soon. If they're anything like the original KOs then I'll be happy

Aint it?! As far as we've found it very well may be the first LS-Swapped D series Travelall out there.

Yes, there will be relays for the high and low beam headlamps in this box. I'm considering using the big bussed one under the hood and one like you're linking to under the dash. Although I may end up restoring the factory fuse block and adding any needed interior relays remotely. Who knows. On the MJ no. A very similar install is going in my friend's '69 Travelall currently. I hope to tackle my truck after the binder is done. Here's a link to the build: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/ellis-juan-travelall.131507/

Wanted to give an update for y'all. Progress is moving fast on my trial run (buddy's Travellall). I'm more and more happy with the fuse block we selected; it looks to be the perfect blend of versatility, space, cleanliness, and simplicity. Versatility: There is a vinyl overlay covering up an additional row of "terminal spots" next to the outboard fuse locations. Cutting away a section of the overlay allows a fuse or an ultra-micro relay to be installed without being on the buss bar (this is aside from the center 10 spots dedicated to relays). This pretty well does away with any feeling like being handcuffed to constant B+ from the buss bars on either side; its easy to install an unbussed fuse or relay (see the two ultra-micro relays in the top right of the 1st pic). Space: It isn't nearly as big and bulky as it looks. Cleanliness: The fact that it is bussed on either/both sides should make for a much cleaner install than individual power wires running to any fuse or relay that needs power. Simplicity: All 3 types of relays shown in the second picture along with any mini fuse (ATM) fit into the same sealed Metri-Pack 280 terminal. Left to right: "high amp", micro, and ultra-micro ISO 280 base relays and an ATM "mini" fuse

I'm going to be modifying the lighting arrangement in mine eventually. The biggest change for me will be with turn signal operation. http://comancheclub.com/topic/46067-total-re-design-questions-and-updates-on-new-chassis-wiring/ "Here's the big changes so far: -Fog lamps will be enabled with the parking lights and will continue to work during high or low beam operation. -A front-mounted LED lightbar can be linked to the high beam circuit or operated independently by a dash-mounted switch. -The flasher is an ISO280-base EP28 unit (un-tested here guys, hope to mock this up soon.) -The lamps marked "amb lts" are ambient "mood lights" if you will; probably red LEDs. Call me ricer, but I had them under the dash on my highschool beater and I loved them. I also like some of these newer cars that put a recessed LED in the overhead console or rearview mirror to barely illuminate the shifter/console area. So I'll try it! -The biggest change is with the turn signals. I'll put an amber LED bulb in place of the rev. lamps in the factory tail lenses and add an outside marker LED to the bumper (whenever it's done :shake:) As designed here, this marker and the factory "vertical" amber lenses on the grille will be illuminated any time the key is in "run" and will wig-wag opposite its corresponding lamp when the turn signal switch pulses power to the right or left turn relay. I may add a "marker-cut" switch to allow an all-dark mode eventually. "

On top of this the "factory MOPAR" shocks very well may have been produced by Monroe in the first place... How many parts do you think AC Delco, MotorCraft, MOPAR, etc. actually make? Not many if any at all (especially nowadays).

?? The fuel pump runs constantly when the engine is running, it doesn't kick on and off........ Yea that. have you sat and watched the a/c compressor at idle?

I agree, except for the "not practical" part. Here's what I'd do: -verify that it is indeed a 12v lamp by hooking it straight up to the battery to see if its performance perks up; if it doesn't then its likely a 24v lamp. -run your new, fused 12ga power wire to terminal 30 of your relay -using another section of that nice new wire, connect terminal 87 to one side of the lamp -ground the other side of the lamp (a good ground) -tap into your factory backup light circuit and run it into terminal 86 -feed terminal 85 to ground Locate your relay near your backup light switch and make sure your connections are water tight. Should work like a charm with no additional stress on your poor backup light switch :thumbsup:

good to see someone extending the effort on this thing! And props to you man for being adventurous!

Me: Will this product adhere to painted surfaces? I'm hoping to use this product between the individual leaves of some truck springs. I was going to avoid painting at all but I've discovered that this stuff doesn't protect from rust at all. Thank you for the support; Alan ZEP's Reply: I am a little confused about your application. This product isn’t normally used on painted surfaces because it is mainly used to lubricate two surfaces that are rubbing together (which would cause paint to rub off). If you just need a product to prevent corrosion I would recommend a traditional lubricant like our Zepreserve http://images.zep.com/zepcorporate/tds/psr_0095.pdf Sincerely, Zep Technical Services Me: Thanks for the quick response. I'm looking to lubricate a leaf spring pack with something that won't collect dirt. A dry film lubricant would be perfect for this but after sandblasting and completely coating the individual leaves with your product (0106) I've discovered that it won't protect the surface from rust like paint (not sure why I thought it would but hey). The bulk of the surface area on these are exposed to the elements and even the parts that "rub together" won't be constantly moving so they need corrosion protection. With all that said I'm planning on blasting the leaves clean again and painting them before applying some kind of lubricant; so my question is will your product adhere to a painted surface and "make it slippery"? A particular kind of paint maybe? ZEP's Reply: We can’t find ANY (neither pro nor con) information regarding use of this or any other dry lubricant on paint. However, we think it will adhere and provide some lubrication, but no guarantees. Please test in a inconspicuous area for adherence and lubrication before general use. Sincerely, Zep Technical Services

Gold

Update: the lack of rust protection is an issue I just can't ignore. I'm emailing back and forth with Zep to figure out if this spray will adhere to a painted surface. Once I get an answer I'll have to decide: a. blasting my nice new coating off, painting, then applying the coating to the friction surfaces b.spraying a different lube product (one that will help with protecting the metal) over the top of this stuff and hope it sticks c. painting over the top of what's there now and re-apply the coating to the "friction areas"

ditto

I've been eyeing Spadano Enterprises' kit (although it's a rocker replacement too) http://spadanoenterprises.com/rocker-panel-sliders.html