A-man930

Me: Will this product adhere to painted surfaces? I'm hoping to use this product between the individual leaves of some truck springs. I was going to avoid painting at all but I've discovered that this stuff doesn't protect from rust at all. Thank you for the support; Alan ZEP's Reply: I am a little confused about your application. This product isn’t normally used on painted surfaces because it is mainly used to lubricate two surfaces that are rubbing together (which would cause paint to rub off). If you just need a product to prevent corrosion I would recommend a traditional lubricant like our Zepreserve http://images.zep.com/zepcorporate/tds/psr_0095.pdf Sincerely, Zep Technical Services Me: Thanks for the quick response. I'm looking to lubricate a leaf spring pack with something that won't collect dirt. A dry film lubricant would be perfect for this but after sandblasting and completely coating the individual leaves with your product (0106) I've discovered that it won't protect the surface from rust like paint (not sure why I thought it would but hey). The bulk of the surface area on these are exposed to the elements and even the parts that "rub together" won't be constantly moving so they need corrosion protection. With all that said I'm planning on blasting the leaves clean again and painting them before applying some kind of lubricant; so my question is will your product adhere to a painted surface and "make it slippery"? A particular kind of paint maybe? ZEP's Reply: We can’t find ANY (neither pro nor con) information regarding use of this or any other dry lubricant on paint. However, we think it will adhere and provide some lubrication, but no guarantees. Please test in a inconspicuous area for adherence and lubrication before general use. Sincerely, Zep Technical Services

Gold

Update: the lack of rust protection is an issue I just can't ignore. I'm emailing back and forth with Zep to figure out if this spray will adhere to a painted surface. Once I get an answer I'll have to decide: a. blasting my nice new coating off, painting, then applying the coating to the friction surfaces b.spraying a different lube product (one that will help with protecting the metal) over the top of this stuff and hope it sticks c. painting over the top of what's there now and re-apply the coating to the "friction areas"

ditto

I've been eyeing Spadano Enterprises' kit (although it's a rocker replacement too) http://spadanoenterprises.com/rocker-panel-sliders.html

I've never liked the tank being secured to the bed myself. Some angle should do the trick. I've considered dual tanks too; perhaps someone should start a new thread on that... :hijack:

Being that drilling and slotting rotors are techniques for improving braking in high heat, extreme performance racing conditions there's really no real reason to employ them on a Jeep. Lots of people waste a lot of money on those only to have pads that wear down faster and have a one time use rotor. +1 for hornbrod's comment; get the booster upgrade and I'll even say skip the rear disc conversion and just properly maintain your drum brakes!

The biggest hold-up to starting the project has been how physically integrated the engine control is with the rest of the truck's harness. I'd have to move and re-wire a bunch of the Renix stuff to get it to drive again... all of that work on an engine management system I plan on doing away with isn't really where I want to spend my time. Enter an old high school buddy wanting to swap an LS into his old IH truck that needs totally re-wired anyways. Perfect :chillin:

The project is not dead. Turns out I'm going to get a practice run on it in a buddy's rig first. I'll post up some pictures of it as we start to make progress

Go MegaSquirt. Report back to us with pictures and videos.

Good point and a good question.

Just in case you didn't know these columns are GM/saginaw pieces. Lots of info on the web on repairing these.

It may be a step "backwards" in the drivability and economy departments but it would be simpler; in the end it just plain requires fewer things to operate. It really comes down to preference I suppose. You couldn't pay me to ditch even my Renix EFI for a carburetor because I don't have a clue what I'm doing with one. But if you're more comfortable with carbs then do it!

Are the bushings really not replaceable?

I had hoped to do this but yea no go.

Got the other bushings for Christmas and they're in! Notice though that the moly coating doesn't make for a good rust inhibitor... :fs1:

22x1.5 is correct. I've got a dual temp sender from some VW application I want to integrate someday (for automatic low/high speed dual electric fans).

+1 on the 3.4 swap. The truck variant of the 2.8 is pretty well the exception to an otherwise excellent engine series. An Fbody 3.4 should be cheap and easy to find and would be sooooo much easier than a 4.0. Plus if you're feeling froggy you could grab the aluminum heads off a later GrandAm and pick up some nice gains.

If a big tank fit in a swb I'd so do it. But yea I'm thinking probably not

I have been fighting this exact problem for years now. I'll be putting my 4th one on next week. I've always chalked it up to not being centered, although it sounds like you're going the extra mile and taking the tank out and working with the sender vertically (I'm lazy and don't feel like pulling the tank out :D

Bitchin. Definitely more info on that mesh. I wonder how dirty that engine bay is gonna look after one trail run . :MJ 1: .

This. Sounds like an exhaust leak in the vid and I'll bet that #2 plug is loose. Drain and catch the engine oil and see if its full of little metal flakes (or cut open the oil filter as suggested earlier). I like to stick something painted white (like an old oil filter) under the stream of oil coming out and look with a flashlight. As far as your oil pressure goes you really need to verify with a mechanical gauge in place of the electric sender.

more pics of the front bumper please!

I really dig the dimple die job.

I'll probably build one similar. The flush look is great, but I agree there's a bit more protection due for the header panel, headlights, etc. I wonder if a brush guard like mikekaz1's could be implemented...