A-man930

Got this reply: Hello Alan, The leaf spring width on this is 82mm The frame-side width is 65mm Center to center on the bolt holes 113mm Thank you for your inquiry. I'll have to ask what the dimensions on the bushing are.

I emailed their tech support asking for a full dimension breakdown. Here's hoping!

Ya know a few months back I installed some drop shackles for a customer's '05ish F150 and though the factory ones looked fairly close too; guessing I probably took measurements and decided otherwise because I didn't take the old ones home :laughin: I'll bet the bushing diameter isn't correct for our springs; that would be too perfect ya know...

Thanks! I'll hopefully get to order the coating soon.

I had 3.07s with 32" tires for a short time. Boy that sucked. Has anyone actually checked cam timing or dynamic compression (as opposed to static)? Those are engine-related problems that aren't always checked into. Have somebody hook up a back pressure gauge into the O2 sensor hole and check the cat that way. Don't be so quick to say your engine is junk. There is way more to a vehicle's performance than the engine itself. As mentioned you've got gearing, ignition timing, and exhaust systems in play, but you there's also things you might not think about (intermittent dragging brake(s) for instance) that can contribute to poor acceleration/lack of power concerns.

I believe the next gen wrangler is going to be offered with a bed kinda like that

So I bit the bullet and got out the el cheapo sandblaster and borrowed the neighbor's compressor. Took over two 40lb bags of media and most of my Sunday (wife-less with the kiddos this weekend) but they're as ready as they'll ever be for coating!

Well thanks, but remember this is my first go at it so take it all with a grain of salt ;)

Made some progress last night; first I marked the individual leaves per side to keep everything in order Then I took them apart: The rust: Ready for a wire wheel cleanup! This is about the worst of the rust pitting. I may sandblast them...

Haven't forgotten about this project, I just can't afford the time or bushings right now. Any thoughts on what else I could use for the tops of the rebound clips? I never came across any more of those pins before I left the old job.

Hey man your pictures went down. Keep this thread alive!

Any updates on this truck? the more I think about these sliders the more I like them!

I see. Then could you (or anyone for that matter) label the inlet/outlet/etc. ports on the MJ valve or link to the picture I know I've seen where they're labeled... ?

Eagle, can you post up the original image (with your notes added in) of the MJ valve?

Isn't there an insert around the ball joints on some years? You sure you didn't push out more than the old ball joint?

Not legal. Federal regulations require that fog lights MUST NOT operate when the headlights are on high beam. I've often wondered that. I'm not so certain its much of a legit safety concern so long as they're aimed properly; and I'm also not convinced It would ever be noticed. When it comes to vehicles, I'm all about the driver having control over the machine's functions.

I'm reconsidering the fog light operation... maybe it'll be totally divorced from the headlamps.

:popcorn:

Again, no physical progress yet, but I'm just about settled on this setup for the lighting circuits. I still need to assign wire colors (I'd like to not have multiple same-color wires in close proximity to each other during the install and for later troubleshooting purposes :D) I'm attempting to utilize all factory switches and have the add-on items be readily available "off any parts store shelf" items. Here's the big changes so far: -Fog lamps will be enabled with the parking lights and will continue to work during high or low beam operation. -A front-mounted LED lightbar can be linked to the high beam circuit or operated independently by a dash-mounted switch. -The flasher is an ISO280-base EP28 unit (un-tested here guys, hope to mock this up soon.) -The lamps marked "amb lts" are ambient "mood lights" if you will; probably red LEDs. Call me ricer, but I had them under the dash on my highschool beater and I loved them. I also like some of these newer cars that put a recessed LED in the overhead console or rearview mirror to barely illuminate the shifter/console area. So I'll try it! -The biggest change is with the turn signals. I'll put an amber LED bulb in place of the rev. lamps in the factory tail lenses and add an outside marker LED to the bumper (whenever it's done :shake:) As designed here, this marker and the factory "vertical" amber lenses on the grille will be illuminated any time the key is in "run" and will wig-wag opposite its corresponding lamp when the turn signal switch pulses power to the right or left turn relay. I may add a "marker-cut" switch to allow an all-dark mode eventually. Give me some feedback fellas! Any more features I should think about? What do you wish was different about the lights in your MJ? :popcorn:

^^ :rotf:

I "burp" the cooling system on mine by jacking the rear of the truck up reeeeeal high (till the engine tilts forward) and cracking the coolant temp sender (for the gauge) at the back of the cylinder head. Works the first time and no burns :yes:

Curious here too :popcorn:

^this. Be careful what you dump in that Trans. The synchros are soft (brass.) I run a synthetic engine oil in mine.

I hope to do exactly this (plus an additional LED marker/turn on the side) when I rewire my lights.

The pilot diameter on the early AX15s is different than the late ones, and Renix v.s. H.O. the hole in the crankshaft is a different size...so good luck finding an off the shelf pilot bearing or bushing! I stumbled across someone on here who had and extra bushing custom made by a local machine shop when I did my H.O. swap. This problem stalled the project for at least a week; prepare yourself.