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A-man930

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Everything posted by A-man930

  1. A-man930
    Spring tension wasn't an issue on mine. Your repair is what inspired me to go after mine!
  2. A-man930
    Almost ready to try it out!
  3. A-man930
    I called the local cjdr dealer and they told me the numbers have been discontinued... Looks like its trial and error time!
  4. A-man930
    I'd like to find an actual, confirmed replacement for the pedal pad and the rubber "stop" piece that keeps the pedal from smacking metal to metal when you release the brake. Any thoughts?
  5. A-man930
    Did you ever have any luck with the bulbs behind the temp controls?
  6. A-man930
    I'd be into that (the MJ shackles)!
  7. A-man930
    I love seeing people DOING things with our trucks. Keep it up!
  8. A-man930
    Been making progress on the spring refurb and am midway through fixing my parking brake pedal. Check it out! http://comancheclub.com/topic/48483-parking-brake-pedal-fix-unverified/
  9. A-man930
    I'll be looking into this. I'm really afraid of having this lift put me too high in the rear.
  10. A-man930
    The rust had to go...
  11. A-man930
    Coated! This stuff dries quick!
  12. A-man930
    The plate that holds the pawl and release cable came off next; Made a replacement for the smaller rivet removed earlier. Enlarge the hole a wee bit and she just fits in there;
  13. A-man930
    I then enlarged the hole in the "top plate" piece and a 5/16" fender washer to accept the 3/8" stud;
  14. A-man930
    Next I drilled the stud to 21/64" in preparation for a 3/8" x 24 tap. Note: do this with a drill press if you have one; by hand it was a bit sketchy especially at the last step where I must have wobbled around too much and made the hole juuuuust a bit oversize. The tap process went real crappily and i really thought about going one size up for the stud, but I don't think there's enough material left for reliable results. It'll get lots of red loctite!
  15. A-man930
    Next, I cut down the top side of the big rivet down a bit past the original surface. The goal here is to get a nice and flat surface to work with that is slightly shorter than the original setup. Next I marked the center and center punched it;
  16. A-man930
    By the looks of the teeth on the pedal side I figure that the pawl must be grabbing only the inside edge. I took my chances and decided to attempt "sharpening" them up with a file (not very effective) and a really thin wheel on a dremel... Should work fine :crossfingers:
  17. A-man930
    After over 5 years without a parking brake I finally bit the bullet and pulled the pedal assembly out in an attempt to fix it. I'm not the first guy to document fixing one of these but I took a little different approach and wanted to share my method and progress with y'all. I didn't take any pictures of the slop the pedal had in it before, but you could shift the pedal left to right with your toe and it would release at random... no bueno for a parking brake! I had to remove the fuse block to get to the bolt at the top right of the pedal; on top of that the nut (welded to the body under the fender) broke free and I had to call in some reinforcements to help get it out. Once the drama was over I hosed the whole thing off with some brake clean and ground these two rivet heads off; http://i.imgur.com/BjcivcJh.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/hulgBwoh.jpg?1 After these two are free all the individual pieces can be separated and inspected; http://i.imgur.com/1C2xh2mh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EaVeRmch.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7TpxgUxh.jpg
  18. A-man930
    Coating is in!
  19. A-man930
    300 lb/ft and a bunch of weight dropped off the front axle. Sounds like a winner to me!
  20. A-man930
    http://gastodiesel.tdconversions.com/
  21. A-man930
    I've been casually following a couple of TDi builds and thought I'd share them here. This guy runs a company that does EV and diesel conversions; this is his XJ build using a BEW http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=431357 This is another XJ conversion not as well documented. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=448164
  22. A-man930
    I was only hoping the bushing was usable too since you're stuck buying it with the Dorman kit. This is a good find indeed. From who? Chrysler??
  23. A-man930
    Got another reply; The ID of the bushing is 14.3mm. The OD is 34.5mm And according to NAPA's online catalog our rear bushing is: Dimension A I.D. : .558" Dimension B : 2.5" Dimension C : 3.19" Dimension D O.D. : 2.503" Not even close on the bushing :(
  24. A-man930
    See if you ever ask a question like that again! :yes:
  25. A-man930
    Yea the 2.8 is the granddaddy of the entire 60degree V6 engine family put in all kinds of GM cars for three decades or so... its a GM engine, they didn't unload anything. Technically, the 2.8L V6 wasn't a GM engine, because AMC actually paid money to GM and bought the rights to the POS. They weren't buying GM engines from GM. Talk about dumb decisions. The 2.8L didn't produce significantly more power or torque than the I4. Apparently, shortly before the Cherokee was introduced in 1984, the thinkers at AMC decided that they needed to offer a V6 engine as an option, and GM was only too happy to sell them the old 2.8L, since GM had given up on it at that time. For GM, it was a win-win -- they unloaded an albatross, and got paid for it. So GM ended up putting AMC engines in the S10/S15 vehicles, as 2.8 was used up to 1986 in those as well.
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