Eagle

The Renix-era keyless entry is an infrared based system, so the key fob has to have a clear line of sight to the receiver in the vehicle. The newer ones, like in my 2000 XJ, are RFID technology, so line of sight isn't required.

??? How else would you bleed the system other than using the bleeder? That's what it's there for.

Did you reinstall the original ignition switch from your old column, or did you use the switch that was on the "new" column?

1990 is the last year for the Renix.

How the heck did the tech change the rear wheel toe and thrust angles? And in adjusting the caster angle, did he use the proper shims, or just rely on torquing the bolts to locate the control arms?

Thanks for making me feel my age. I'm old enough to remember the days when a zero to 60 time of 10 seconds flat was considered to be FAST! That was once sort of the automotive equivalent of a 4-minute mile.

^^^ This. Just swap the axles. I would much rather just swap axles than get involved in swapping an engine, tranny and transfer case -- especially since the engine swap will also require a complete wiring harness swap.

Rustoleum red is pretty close to Colorado Red. The problem is that ALL reds fade badly and quickly when exposed to sunlight. But if you use a Rustoleum paint for your spray, the Rustoleum rattle cans will be a good match and cost a lot less than automotive touch-up.

What's wrong with the crank in the "new" engine you just bought? Why not just use the crank that came in it?

Given the description of the proposed use, I wouldn't spend the money on high-dollar automotive paint. You can't match it from a rattle can -- unless you have the paint store make up a custom rattle can (at $50 a pop). Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and pick a Rustoleum color you like. Find one that comes in cans that you acn spray, and that's also available in rattle cans for future touch-up.

I loathe and detest the bar clamp style flaring tools. I've been using a different type of mechanical double flare tool for more than 50 years and it always works. For some reason, the manufacturer discontinued that model and now sells a bar clamp type.

The basic requirements for an internal combustion engine are fuel, air, and spark. If it runs when you pour gas into the throttle body, you obviously have air and spark, so your problem is fuel delivery. If the injector (single -- there's only one injector on a 1989 2.5L) is squirting gas, there are a couple of possibilities: 1. Not enough gas 2. Too much has 3. The gas has been in the tank tto long and it's stale.

Scanning to PDF is generally a first step. Unless you have a program (app) that edits PDFs, you can't do anything with the PDF. And even full Adobe Acrobat isn't great for really editing text -- it's better only for making minor corrections for things like typos. As Fiatslug mentioned, there are on-line OCR sites. I prefer to work on my computer, and there are also any number of free OCR programs that run under Windows. There are probably some for Apple iOS, too, but I don't know anything about those.I've been using a Windows program cleverly named "Free OCR." It's not perfect, but it's about as good as a commercial OCR program I used a few years ago at work. As was mentioned, the quality of OCR output is heavily dependent on the quality and clarity of the scan you're trying to convert. https://www.simpleocr.com/download/ Here's one from the Microsoft Store (with links to others at the bottom): https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/a9t9-free-ocr-software/9nblgggz5nsn?activetab=pivot:overviewtab A couple of months ago I tried out four different (Android) cell phone apps for scanning documents into [purportedly] usable documents. All were highly rated in reviews. Two failed completely, and I tried them on a Samsung Eclipse J3, a ZTE something, and a Samsung Galaxy tablet. The other two succeeded in scanning the document, but the resulting scan was poor quality and not editable. In the end I gave up and deleted all four apps from all the devices.

I agree. My first thought was "Buy the bed!" Get the rear window, too. It's not a factory slider, but it is a proper window for an MJ.

Best bet is that it won't ...

YJ, I believe. Although TJ yokes may be the same. They aren't "marginally" longer -- they're about an inch longer, IIRC .

Going from memory as to what's under the bed and attached to it, I'm going to say no.

How far is "a few inches"?

This is a general question, covering everything from the least expensive econo-boxes to top tier luxury cars, pickups, and SUVs: How many new cars today come with a security system standard from the factory? Of those that do, how many systems include an engine immobilizer function? Do all new GM vehicles have On-Star? Yes, I should know ... but I haven't paid any attention to new vehicles since I ordered my 2000 XJ in the fall of 1999. Didn't need to, because the XJ is still serving me well.

What makes you think the OEM cat isn't high performance? What do you think a non-OEM cat is going to gain you?

Heh, heh. That whine was the warraanty issue with my '88 XJ when I bought it new. It seems to be characteristic of the tranny. The factory had a warranty "fix" for it, though -- stuff a thick felt pad between the tranny and the floor to soak up the noise. That's like their "fix" for the leaky front door vent windows (which were an extra cost option in 1988). Mine leaked from Day One. The factory had a "fix -- take 'em out and replace with the fixed windows. I asked if that would include refunding the money I had paid them for that option. Silly me! Of course not!

My original '88 XJ has a BA 10/5. After an initial warranty problem with tranny noise during the first month I had it, it's been fine. 287,000+ miles. And it has been wheeled, at Paragon on Pennsylvania, Old Florida Road in Massachusetts, and the power line trail in Rhode Island, as well as some Forest Service roads in northern New Mexico. Just don't beat on it.

1. I have thought about a carb, but I would go for a small 4-barrel (or a progressive 2-barrel, with a primary and secondary). The reason is simple -- simplicity. With EFI, if you lose any of a number of things, the vehicle is dead. I've driven an old pickup truck home with a small can of gasoline suspended from the hood, dripping by gravity into the carburetor. Try that with EFI. 2. Nope. Don't even want to think about it. 3. Sure. Find an AMC car with a 232 or 258 c.i.d. I6 engine and grab the distributor and coil. 4. I haven't done it, but it's an easy bolt-in swap. Shouldn't cost much at all. I'm sure someone here has done it.

Exactly. It looks VERY well done, and I certainly have an appreciation of the work that went into it. Once we get beyond that, though, my reaction is still ... WHY?

Why would you want 1-ton steering on a 2WD MJ?