Eagle

Moved to Tech. because it's tech.

It's an in-line six -- there is no way to get it to sound as sexy as a V8. The only exhaust I've ever heard that sounded at all decent on a Jeep I6 was a Gibson. https://gibsonperformance.com/p-27232-jeep-exhaust-systems.html

It could also be a stuck starter solenoid.

DRAT! Minuit, many thanks for running that test, and documenting it so thoroughly. Now we know -- the only solution is to find a sender that matches the gauge, or find a gauge that matches the sender.

Timing chain sprocket can only go on the crankshaft one way, and the sprocket is marked for aligning the chain to the cam sprocket. You're doing a 4.0L, so the cam is in the block even if the head is off. Look at the valve lifters. On the compression stroke, both will be down -- on the exhaust stoke, one will be up.

Somebody just posted a few days ago about finding a old junkyard. On of the photos showed an MJ with an intact slider rear window. Look in The Pub.

His system is different. Your fuel sender resistance range is 0 ohms empty, 88 ohms full. The HO system is reverse ~~ 105 ohms empty, 5 ohms full.

^^^ Exactly. That's why you shouldn't just stick it back in and drive it again. The simplest solution is a YJ yoke. I'd have to look for the part number, but there's a YJ yoke that's something like an inch longer than the XJ/MJ yoke. It's not an ideal solution, but it's less money than a new drive shaft. If you need to drive it home, you can drive it on the front axle in 4WD with no rear drive shaft. To prevent the fluid from spewing out of the transfer case, you can find a small soda bottle and put that over the tailshaft housing with a hose clamp to contain the joy juice.

Connecting it again is easy. But it won't solve the problem. Your driveshaft is now too short. If you connect it again, it will fall out again, and the next time it may do more serious damage. DON'T just stick it back in and drive it.

Possibly a bent drag link or bent tie rod?

Do you have a timing light?

Are you sure you got it at TDC on the compression stroke, not on the exhaust stroke?

Since you are the guy who runs his fuel gauge by direct wiring, maybe you know or can tell us if reversing the leads will make the gauge read the other way.

No. First: The 2.8L is externally balanced. That means there's a lump of weight on the flywheel or flexplate to help in balancing the rotating mass. The 3.4L is internally balanced -- it doesn't have that lump of weight on the flywheel/flexplate. So you'll need to take your flywheel or flexplate to a shop, have it neutral balanced, and use that on the 3.4L. Your engine is carbureted. The 3.4s are fuel injected. You will either need to adapt your vehicle to run with the FI system, or swap your intake manifold and carburetor onto the 3.4L. There's probably more, but that's what comes immediately to mind.

Factory rear window slider must be worth something. Even if you don't need it, it would be great if you could afford to pull it and set it aside.

"RR" means "Rear." I suspect that's a build code for a Cherokee with rear headrests. Remember, they recycle codes. A code that was used for an AMC XJ or MJ may well be is use today for some other Chrysler vehicle, and mean something different from what it meant for Jeep.

Turn off "autorotate"

Use anti-seize on the new ones.

I considered that awhile back, and I think I concluded that it wouldn't work. I was considering tracing the wires for the fuel gauge at the connector that plugs into the cluster, and seeing if it's possible to remove those wires and swap theeir positions in the connector body.

That's very sad news. Thanks for letting us know, Pete. Condolences to his family.

Be sure the radiator you get has a place to install the temp switch for the auxiliary fan. If you have an aux fan, the switch is mounted about halfway down in the driver's side radiator tank. Most of the radiators with a neck don't have that bung, because the HO system controls the aux fan through the PCM.

Just the filter. He is guessing that you installed a Fram filter, and they are known for screwing the oil pressure. Just throw on a good Wix or Purolator filter, add a quart to make up for what was in the filter, and check your oil pressure again. Most 4.0L engines run at 50 to 55 psi at around 65 MPH -- when brand new. If you're anywhere in the 45 to 50 psi range, you're good. But the pressure should not be below 13 psi at warm idle. (I don't like to see lower than 20, but the book says 13.)

Below 20 psi at idle, or at road speed? Factory spec for il pressure is only at normal operating temperature (meaning both the engine and the oil). The spec is 13 psi minimum at 600 RPM, and 37-75 psi at 1600 RPM. It doesn't sound like you have anything to worry about.

All those symptoms indicate that the turn signal sockets don't have a good ground, and are trying to ground by backfeeding through parking light circuit.

Neither gauge works, or neither gauge works in that cluster? Have you downloaded the electrical manual yet? If not, you need to find it and download it. That's where I copied the quick test procedure from. Did you run that test? What were the results?