Eagle

How's about 8x8?

Caster range is 7 to 8 degrees, with 7-1/2 preferred.

Just watch out for the bolt pattern.

You're looking at pulling the dashboard anyway, unless you buy one of those kits that just hangs beneath the dash. If the evaporator is still in your heater box, it's probably shot by now and will need to be replaced. And the reality is, you might as well replace the heater coil while you have the dash out, because it's going to go soon. I had to replace the heater coil in my '88 XJ several years ago because it started peeing on the passenger side carpet.

My '87 had aftermarket air in it when I bought it. I believe the brand is American Air, which I think was owned by AMC, and I'm fairly sure it was a dealer0installed kit. It works okay, but on mine the kit didn't include a new control panel so the operation isn't exactly like factory air. The truck is at a friend's house at the moment so I can't provide a photo, but if your truck doesn't have factory air -- that's what my dashboard looks like. I don't remember what turns on the a/c function -- must be a separate toggle switch for the compressor.

Great. For new springs, or used?

Make sure you get some real coolant into the system. At this time of year you don't have to worry about freezing, but coolant also has anti-rust additives in it.

WAAAAAAAAY high!

It burps itself. That's what the overflow bottle does. Be sure the bottle is 1/3 or so full when cold.

Comparing my build sheet to the master list, the master list is missing the following: AGK . . . "VTS" Package [No, I have no idea what that was. The truck is a Chief] BCQ . . . 750 AMP Battery CGX . . . Restraint Assy - Drver Airbag w/ Belts - Red GSC . . . Right O/S Mirror-Manual-Black JAY . . . Analog Cluster, Rallye w/ Tach [My truck didn't have a tach -- but I bought it used, so possibly it got swapped out] MBJ . . . Rear Bumper-Step Type-Black/Black PE4 . . . Colorado Red Primary Paint HE4 QE4 . . . Colorado Red Secondary Paint HE4 WJD . . . 15x7 Styled Steel Wheel - Painted XEA . .. Tow Hooks

I have a dealer-produced build sheet for my '88 MJ Chief. Let's see if I can attach it ... Build Sheet - Red 1988 MJ.doc

Here's a link to the procedure for bleeding the rear brakes if you have the height-sensing proportioning valve: I have never disconnected the proportioning valve connecting rod. It's easy to do, though, so why not do it right?

Didn't we start a project a long time ago to have people scan their build sheets and post them in a central post for reference? If not, we should. Then any missing codes could be added into the master list. But, to be accurate, we would need actual build sheets that people find under the seat or in the door panel. I have had my dealership print out build sheets for used XJs and MJs for me, and some of the codes showed things that were never available on an XJ or MJ. Daimler|Chrysler apparently recycled codes, so there may be some overlap.

Wow! You're fast. I started when I saw Pete's post, but I'm not more than a quarter of the way through. Thanks to you, I can now return to my other time-eating projects.

That's a possibility, but he has an '86 and thgere's no guarantee that the wire colors are the same.

I'll give it a try ...

Their printer was running a sale on 'm' and 'e'. Two for the price of one.

Just remember that the wheel cylinders are specific to one side. For the cost, I'd recommend buying both and replacing them.

Just knock the pins out of the hinges and use bolts that are just slightly undersized, and that extend a little below the bottoms of the hinges so you can more easily tap them out. And put disconnect plugs on the wiring from the cab to the doors.

It doesn't matter. The factory metric ton springs didn't ride any higher than the standard springs. As Gogmorgo noted, the FSM gives a ride height for 2WD springs that's 1 inch lower than 4WD springs, but there is no separate specification for metric ton springs.

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/wheel-cylinder-rear?filterByKeyWord=rear+wheel+cylinder&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false When you get a new one, take out the bleeder screw and put anti-seize on the threads.

3-1/2 inches is not "a little" in my view -- and they won't settle by nearly that much. This is why I advise people not to buy General springs. Stock replacement springs should ride at stock ride height ... period, full stop.

Maybe no one responded because no one knew the answer. I saw the thread ... how many "I don't know" or "I have no idea" responses would have made you happy? Thanks for the link. I'm not going to delete the thread, because it may help someone else in the future, and that's why we're all here.

What are you hoping to accomplish? How do you plan to use the vehicle, and what size tires do you plan to run?