Eagle

I bought the one from Amazon, and it has arrived. It doesn't appear that the switches are replaceable in the driver's door housing, so my idea of replacing just the one switch that's bad wouldn't have worked. I really hate automotive engineers. Nothing is repairable these days. "Technicians" in shops don't fix anything -- they've just become parts changers, and it's not entirely their fault.

I'll keep that in mind as a last resort, but I hate to buy nine switches when I only need one. Thanks. I never would have thought of Amazon for Jeep parts.

The driver's door window in my 2000 XJ Sport has become intermittent, and it's getting worse. Sometimes I can get it to work by jiggling the switch, but I'm afraid of getting it open and then not being able to close it. If anyone has a parts XJ -- I guess 1997 or newer, certainly 1999 or newer -- I'm looking for the interior switch for the driver's door window. If the switches come as a unit with all four, I'll take that. If they are individual switches -- the switch for the driver's door has a detent for express-down. I'll be perfectly happy to get one of the other switches, without the express down detent. Thanks.

Maybe. Probably. I'm notoriously risk averse. I see nothing to be gained by taking that risk when the blue Loctite will do the job just fine.

If the oil temperature is 190 and the coolant temperature is 210, the oil isn't adding heat to the coolant. According to this source, 190 is colder than optimum for engine oil: https://engineoiljournal.com/engine-oil-temperature-chart/ Also: https://oilspecguide.com/viscosity-grades/engine-oil-temperature-normal-range/ https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine-oil-temperature https://engineoiljournal.com/normal-engine-oil-temperature/

The problem is that if you use red, if there is EVER a need to remove those screws -- nobody is going to know or remember to apply heat (and if they did accidentally remember, I can't think pointing a Bernz-O-Matic torch into the guts of a steering column would go well), so it's 99.837 percent certain the heads will either be stripped or broken off and which the steering column will have to be replaced. Blue will do the job, and can be serviced in the future.

NO! Red Loctite is "permanent hold" for large fasteners. It requires heat to remove. While it's not likely you'll ever need to disassemble the steering column for service, it is possible. If so, noboy will expect those screws to be essentially welded in, so they'll break something. Use blue Loctite.

No problem there ...

If anybody was wondering, I'm still around but functioning at a reduced level. I had four hospitalizations for cardiac issues in 2025. No in-patient stays so far this year (fingers crossed), but lots of tests, and more on the calendar. I have a bunch of Cherokees in my yard that need to go. Before I call a scrap yard and just have them hauled out, I'd like to offer anyone within driving range of southern Connecticut a chance to swing by and grab parts if you can use them. What's out there: 1985 or 86 Cherokee V6. V6- auto 4WD Interior and wiring were stripped out of it by previous owner Axles should be 3.73 or (maybe) 4.10 Most glass should be intact 1984 Cherokee Pioneer (?) 2.5L 5-speed 4WD Replacement engine w/ +/- 30,000 miles. Hard to turn over. I haven't ever heard it run Complete Axles should be 4.10 1987 Cherokee Base 4.0L automatic 4WD Was running. T-boned on driver's side A pillar. I bought it from the secretary where I used to work after she was hit on her way to work. Engine has probably a bit over 100k miles Factory cruise 1989 Cherokee Pioneer 4.0l Automatic 4WD 200k+ Body VERY rough Driver's side floor pan cut out for a friend's Comanche I need to get these out of the yard before the snow flies. I'm not looking for money -- if you can use anything off any of them, you're welcome to bring tools and friends and take what you can. I am NOT in good enough health to help you do any work. Location: Just west of New Haven. Closer to Wilbur Cross Parkway (CT Route 15) than to I-95, but the Wilbur Cross Parkway doesn't allow trucks (larger than pickups) or trailers of any size/weight. If interested, send me a PM with your e-mail. No current photos available. Sorry.

Even the 2000 factory service manual says the head bolts can be reused one time.

A friend of mine across town has a Wrangler TJ that he bought used with a 2.5L 5-speed. He put in a lift and runs rather large tires -- bigger than 32, probably 36s if not 40s. Nice Jeep, but it was a pig. His stepson had another TJ, same year, but a 4.0L 5-speed. The body and frame on the stepson's Jeep kind of ... ceased to exist. I helped him swap the entire drive train from the stepson's TJ into his. The first time he drive it with the 4.0L in it he just about lost his mind. He couldn't believe the difference it made.

WHAAAAAAAAT ????? The difference is VERY noticeable.

No.

I would make my own harness. If I remember correctly, there was something wonky about the factory setup -- either it didn't allow running the fogs without also running the headlights (which is the ONLY way to run fogs, if you're driving in fog), or they didn't turn off the fogs when you went to high beams -- and I believe that's a D.O.T. requirement. Much easier to make your own. Two relays, one switch, and some wire.

The factory service manual recommends checking transmission operation by shifting manually. It should shift from first gear to third gear if you start with the shifter a "1" and then manually move the shifter to "3." If it doesn't shift, then there may be a problem with the solenoids. The AW-4 shifting is controlled by solenoids. If they don't work -- it won't shift.

No current photos available. I forgot to mention that when I bought it I had both axles regeared to 3.73, with a TruTrac in the rear.

Health issues are making it so I probably won't ever get to work on this, so it's time to pass the torch (and the truck) to someone who can take proper care of it. 1988 Comanche Chief. It was red, but the clearcooat has mostly turned white. 4.0L 5-speed, 4WD. Previous owner chopped up the floor and put in a YJ transfer case and shifter. Previous owner also carved the flare mounting flanges off the rear wheel arches. (He did the fronts, too, but after I got ticketed for tires extending beyond the bodywork I installed new front fenders. Speedometer and odometer weren't working when I bought it, so mileage is unknown. I fixed it. It now reads a little over 100,000 miles, and I don't think the previous owner put many miles on it while the odometer wasn't working. Drivers floor was mostly gone. I had it patched by a professional welder and then I applied bedliner to the entire driver's side footwell. It's been parked for several years. Clutch was frozen to the flywheel when I last checked it. Conservatively, figure on towing it out with a transporter, not driving it. I don't know what it's worth. I'm mostly interested in finding it a home. Please contact me by PM if interested. Location is southern Connecticut.

It would be interesting if Slate (or someone) would come out with an affordable kit to covert Comanches to electric.

Possibly. I don't remember -- that was a lifetime ago.

Anyone remember the Sunbeam Tiger? It was a British Sunbeam Alpine, with a Ford 289 V8 stuffed into the engine bay. You had to pull the engine to access the two rear-most spark plugs.

You made out. I'd make that trade any day.

If you haven't done the C101 (firewall main wiring harness junction) delete, the CPS signal runs through the C101 before it gets to the ECU. There was a factory TSB (and kit) to bypass the C101 and run the CPS wires directly to the ECU to improve the signal. (Renix only)

You beat me. My clutchless drive home was only 100 miles.

A few years ago my brother's Nissan pickup broke. The frame started to fracture right at the junction between the rear of the cab and the front of the box. He took it to a nearby welding shop that has developed sort of a specialty in repairing broken pickup frames. I'm curious -- what thickness or gauge steel would you use to plate a frame to repair such damage?