Eagle

The wrong forum.

That doesn't sound right. The instructions say to start with the screws out 1 turn, and then turn them IN 1/8 turn at a time. How did you get to 1-3/4 turns out? That may be very rich.

The pics don't show up for me. You don't have an overflow bottle. The closed cooling system used on the '88 4.0L has a pressurized expansion tank. That's the plastic reservoir on the passenger side firewall. It is NOT an overflow catch tank, it's an integral part of the cooling system. The cap is a pressure cap and, if it won't hold pressure, the system won't work properly. Also, be sure you don't overfill it. It should be filled to halfway when the system is cold - no more. That said, the first thing for you to address is the fan clutch. That's probably not spinning the fan fast enough to move air. The key is if the temp goes up wien the vehicle isn't moving, but returns to normal when the vehicle is moving.

Those are for the XJ. The front flares are the same. The MJ rear flares are NOT the same as XJ rear flares.

Duplicate threads merged.

Type 1 and Type 2 refer to clusters with mechanical speedometers. 1996 is electronic -- it's neither Type 1 not Type 2.

Correct -- in is lean, out is rich. The name of the game is to find best lean idle. That's why they tell you to back it out one full turn from seated, and then start adjusting by turning it in 1/8 of a turn at a time until the engine starts to run rough or stumble. When you get the stumble ... it's too lean, so then you back it out 1/8 of a turn at a time (both screws) until it idles smooth again. If you have an idle tachometer, hook it up and watch for then the RPMs start to drop off and/or the RPMs start to jump around.

No.

They can be done one at a time, while the engine is in the vehicle.

In this thread:

195.

You heater core is probably clogged. Replace it.

I've been watching tow videos on YouTube by Plaza Towing, and Ron Pratt. There are professional, heavy-duty recovery and towing operators, They use chains, not straps, and they tie down straight, not across.

Have you run the FSM diagnostic? That involves pulling the fuse for the TCM and shifting manually. I opsted it for someone not very long ago, so you should be able to pull it up.

What you need to know is in item 3 of the instructions you posted. You're looking for the leanest setting that allows for a smooth idle. You start at the baseline setting and turn the screw in (which makes the mixture leaner) until the engine starts to stumble, or run rough. That's the point when it's too lean. Then back it out just enough to smooth it out, and walk away happy. You have two idle mix screws, I believe, so turn them both equal amounts, to keep both sides of the engine at the same mixture. In the old days, we used an idle tachometer for this -- sometimes you would see the RPM change before you could hear a difference in how smoothly or how rough the engine was operating.

Keeps the water from rotting the floor. WIN!

Or "TAT." Anyone ever hear of it? I hadn't, until a guy whose YouTube channel I follow started posting about a motorcycle trip he and several other people are taking that follows the "TAT." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trans_America_Trail Sounds like it would be a great way for a bunch of Comanche Club folks to get together. Meet up, spend weekend or a week traversing a section of the trail, and enjoy seeing some MJs in action.

Then the answer is dependent on what the travel is for the shocks you're running.

The gauge in your original cluster worked. Why not just move it to the new cluster? You're overthinking this. If the temp gauge in the original cluster worked in the original cluster and doesn't work in the new cluster, it stands to reason that the problem isn't the gauge, it's the cluster. Probably the printed circuit.

Quoted for truth.

Classic Tube is the place, but for a lot less money you can go on Amazon, buy a coil of cunifer (nickel/copper/steel) alloy tube and a roll of gravel shield, and roll your own. Much depends on where you live. If you are in a state that uses salt on the roads, I don't know if even stainless steel will hold up very long.

The "thing" (I won't call it a "problem," because except for the sound it's a feature, not a bug) is that with an I6 the exhaust pulses are perfectly evenly spaced, so the sound comes as more of a steady sound rather than individual pulses. The Jeep 4.0L is especially this way because it's an old-school engine at heart (the basic engine goes back to 1964, in a Rambler). It's a comparatively low-compression engine with a mild, street cam. You can make it sound "pulsier" (to coin a phrase) by switching to a cam with higher left and shorter duration, so the pulses are stronger and have a bit more separation. If you run headers, a true dual exhaust might help, also.

Welcome back, Mate. Who could forget the Tasmanian Devil avatar?

Perfectly okay. Yep. Check the project write-ups. To do it right will take more time that you may have at the moment, because in addition to getting the lateral spacing correct to line up with your springs, you should also set the truck on the new axle at curb weight and adjust the rotation of the differential to make the pinion angle match up with the output shaft at the transfer case. Yes.