Eagle

He was dealing with a lot. I hope his passing wasn't too uncomfortable, and that he's now at peace.

Your route will probably take you across Massachusetts on I-90 (the Massachusetts Turnpike) and then up I-495 or I-95 to Portland. That said, if you decide to come though Connecticut on I-95 or I-84 -- be sure to let me know. Hmmm ... According to Google maps, your best route will be I-84 through Connecticut. Waterbury is just a few miles north of me. Depending on when you'll be going through, we might be able to arrange a [face-to-face] mask-to-mask and a virtual fist bump on your way through.

Nay.

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=weatherstripping+foam

I have posted before that the 4.0L engine's basic design goes back to a 232 cubic inch I-6 that AMC introduced in 1964. As a carbureted engine, that engine eventually saw iterations as a 199 c.i.d, 232 c.i.d, and 258 c.i.d. (which was the 4.2L used in the square headlight Wrangler YJ). Back in the 1960s and 1970s overdrive was an expensive option that virtually nobody bought, so top gear was almost always a 1:1 ratio. And the typical rear axle for AMC was 3.08 -- so they generally worked out to 24 MPH per 1,000 RPM. That meant 60 MPH was 2500 RPM, and 3,000 RPM was 72 MPH. So we routinely cruised at 3,000 RPM and the engines didn't mind it at all. My brother had a 1970 Gremlin with the 232 that went over 300,000 miles without any internal work. Back in the day, this was referred to as a "Mexican tune-up."

Screaming? With 31" tires and 4.10 gears, you should be turning 2645 RPM at 75 MPH. That's hardly "screaming." As to the original question: 31" tires with 3.73 gearing is exactly the same final drive ration as stock tires with 3.55s. If you're thinking of swapping gears, definitely go for the 4.10s.

Different strokes for different folks. I find this forum package to be extremely un-user friendly. I really and truly loathe and detest the WYSIWYG editing window. It makes it super difficult to quote a previous message that needs individual responses to individual parts or paragraphs. I was much happier with the old Simple Machines software.

I work for an engineering firm with multiple offices scattered over states ranging from Connecticut to southern California. The home office is in Philadelphia, and all payroll functions are carried out at the home office. We fill out and submit time sheets on-line. The application is one that a number of engineering firms use -- and it only runs with Internet Exploder. In fact, I just tried it with Edge to see what would happen. Answer -- nothing. It wouldn't run. And I had previously tried it with Firefox, so I know that's a failure.

FWIW, some of you may remember that Hornbrod's daughter is an Air Force Captain stationed at Tyndall AFB. Tyndall is on a barrier island on the Florida panhandle, a bit east of Pensacola. They got badly hammered when the last big hurricane went through that area -- to the point that they had buildings blown down. I checked in with her on Wednesday evening, and she reported that -- so far -- they've just seen heavy rain but nothing catastrophic.

If you mean for the brakes, the MJ does not have a combination valve. The thingie in the front is a distribution block and brake failure warning switch only -- proportioning is done by the height sensing valve in the rear.

I don't know what to tell you. You have steel lines with bad flares, and they have damaged the seats in your valve bodies. Keep using those lines and you'll just destroy more proportioning valves. You need to replace those flares. If you don't want to run new lines full length, then cut the ends of and splice in new sections with proper flares. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=copper+nickel+brake+line+3%2F16&crid=W5G2CN1KRWGA&sprefix=copper+nickel+brake+line%2Caps%2C194&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_24

Yes, of course.

Bubble flare is not the answer. Those flares in the photos are bad -- that's the problem. Let's take it from the top. un fortunately, our forum software makes it difficult to quote parts on a post, but I'll try to work around that. "They leave indents like the line isn’t sitting centered. " Yeah, the raised seat in the valve body has obviously been gouged. The gouge is deep enough that I don't know if it can be made to seat without leaking. This one is damaged to the point that I think it can't be saved. This flare wasn't pressed hard enough on the second pass with the flare tool: The width of the "face" at the end of the flare is too wide, so the width of the inverted taper is too narrow. In addition ... The flare is off-center to the tube. You can see that the flare extends farther toward the top of the photo than the portion extending below the tube toward the bottom. My suggestion: Go on Amazon and buy a coil of copper-nickel (cunifer) brake line. It's more resistant to corrosion, which is always good. Plus, it's softer than steel, so it's easier to bend, it's easier to get good flares, and it might be soft enough to compress the flare and seal those damaged seats.

Yes, that is an XJ (or ZJ) proportioning valve. If it's weeping around where one of the fitting goes into the valve body, you have a bad flare, not a bad valve.

The XJ rear lights are all fed from the left side wiring bundle. The difference between the usual XJ setup, which has separate brakes and hazards, and the XJ Wagineer (which works like the MJ, with the brake lights and hazards sharing the same bulbs), is all at the rear of the vehicle. I thought I had posted scans of both XJ wiring diagrams here awhile ago, but I don't remember where or when.

If you are in New England, definitely follow Pete's advice. It sounds like a daunting task but, in reality, once you dive in and get started, replacing all the brake lines isn't all that much work, and it's definitely worth the effort in terms of the peace of mind you'll gain. I'm in New England, so I speak from experience. I've tried patching the steel brake lines. What a joke. On my '88 Cherokee -- a number of years ago -- I replaced the rear line from about the driver's seat back to the rear axle. Got it all buttoned up, my buddy came over to help me bleed it -- and it popped the same line, a foot forward from where I had spliced it, while we were bleeding it. Don't get steel. New England states now have a love affair with the liquid auto eater salt compound, and that stuff is death to brake lines. Get cunifer (copper/nickel/steel). You can get a 25-foot coil from Amazon, with new fittings, for a decent price. And the cunifer is much easier to work with than the steel lines you get at the parts houses. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Cunifer+brake+line&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

How thick can JB Weld be built up in one lift/pass? I have a cylindrical thingie that I need to fill with something metallic(ish). Length about 1-1/4", diameter -- well, okay it's not exactly a cylinder -- about 1/2" x 3/4". Can I just mix up the goop and ladle it in, or does JB Weld need thin layers to cure properly? The instructions don't seem to address that.

There's a link to the 1988 electrical manual in this thread: https://comancheclub.com/topic/62775-no-communication-with-tcm-won’t-shift/page/2/#comments

It turns over -- your problem obviously can't be the starter. Your problem is that you are not getting electrical power to the ignition, or to the fuel pump -- or maybe to both. The thing you stick the key into on the steering column is not the ignition switch. It's just a key. The actual switch is located on the steering column -- where that bundle of wires comes from. (See previous posts.) You need to do some troubleshooting to find out if power for the fuel pump and ignition circuits is coming out of that switch. If so, then trace the circuits until you find the break. The 1988 electrical manual is available somewhere on this site as a download. Your truck may not be an '88, but the ignition circuit should work about the same for all of them.

Well done, Sir! Well done, indeed!

Ah, so. Gotcha.

This is very unclear. It doesn't turn over -- or it doesn't start? "Turning over" is when the starter is engaged and the engine is rotating. "Firing" is when the engine starts to run on its own. So what is it doing, and what is it not doing? If it's not turning over, "flooding the fuel line" (however you do that) wouldn't make any difference.

Not Chrysler, AMC. I bought my 1988 Cherokee new. It was delivered, IIRC, in January of 1988. All the paperwork says American Motors. Two or three months later, when I took it back for a warranty issue, the warranty was handled through Chrysler. An 86/87 vehicle was defintely AMC.

Oh. I thought you were looking for a lap belt for the center position on the MJ bench. My original XJ didn't have shoulder belts for the rear and I've never sat in the back of the 2000 XJ, so rear shoulder belts never entered what's left of my mind. Sorry.

Are you asking about the lap belt for the center position? I don't know what you heard, but the center belt in a Comanche is exactly the same as a center belt from the rear of a Cherokee.