Eagle

Pardon my confusion. "Driveline" typically refers to everything between the engine and the driving wheels.

You need to make up a signature with the year of your MJ, and the engine and transmission. That we we won't always ask: What year is your truck, and what engine and transmission does it have? Where are you located, and what axle do you have, Dana 35 or Dana 44? There are probably any number of members who have a Dana 35 axle or three they'd be perfectly happy to give you. I have several out in the yard. Is your differential opened up? Can you post a photo or three of the gouges you're talking about? Unless they're really bad, I'm inclined to think (sight unseen) that it's probably not a big deal. As long as tghere's enough solid material to hold the new races in place, the bearings only care about the races, not what's holding them.

That nugget of wisdom has been discussed (or at least mentioned) here many times. It's a shame you didn't catch it any of the times it has come up. Yeah, some creative body work with the 2-1/2-pound, hand-held Ford Carburetor Adjusting Tool should take care of it for you.

Not a good choice. The wheel bolt circle isn't the same -- you'll be looking at adapters. Also, I believe the full-size is actually narrower, wheel-mating-surface to wheel-mating-surface, than the MJ and XJ. Get a rear axle and leaf springs out of a '87 or newer XJ. Cut off the spring perches and mount them where they need to be for the MJ. Cut the eyes off the XJ main leaves and use them as AALs in your MJ spring pack.

Why do you need to change the rear axle when you change the engine?

Never heard of it. Doesn't make any sense.

Really? There should be about 70,000 volts at the spark plugs.

Currently three: '87 Pioneer SWB 4.0L '88 SporTruck SWB 2.5L '88 Chief SWB 4.0L I've lost count of how many others have passed through here on the way to adoptive homes

Fabreeze ... and time

Whereas polycarbonate is very resistant to impact, but it's also very susceptible to scratches.

Are you talking XJ Wagoneer, or full-size Wagoneer?

That's a non-pressurized coolant overflow recovery bottle. It's a totally different animal than the pressurized expansion tank in the Renix 4.0L system.

Expansion tank, or overflow catch bottle? I've never heard of a cheap, square expansion tank.

Replacing the IAC would not affect the brake lights. The OP reports that the brake lights work correctly when the headlights are off, but the brake lights are on when the headlights are on. That suggests to me that the taillight ground is bad, and the parking lights/taillights (which come on with the headlights) are seeking a ground through the brake lights. Check the ground for the taillights.

Read note #5 in the instructions.

The wrong forum.

That doesn't sound right. The instructions say to start with the screws out 1 turn, and then turn them IN 1/8 turn at a time. How did you get to 1-3/4 turns out? That may be very rich.

The pics don't show up for me. You don't have an overflow bottle. The closed cooling system used on the '88 4.0L has a pressurized expansion tank. That's the plastic reservoir on the passenger side firewall. It is NOT an overflow catch tank, it's an integral part of the cooling system. The cap is a pressure cap and, if it won't hold pressure, the system won't work properly. Also, be sure you don't overfill it. It should be filled to halfway when the system is cold - no more. That said, the first thing for you to address is the fan clutch. That's probably not spinning the fan fast enough to move air. The key is if the temp goes up wien the vehicle isn't moving, but returns to normal when the vehicle is moving.

Those are for the XJ. The front flares are the same. The MJ rear flares are NOT the same as XJ rear flares.

Duplicate threads merged.

Type 1 and Type 2 refer to clusters with mechanical speedometers. 1996 is electronic -- it's neither Type 1 not Type 2.

Correct -- in is lean, out is rich. The name of the game is to find best lean idle. That's why they tell you to back it out one full turn from seated, and then start adjusting by turning it in 1/8 of a turn at a time until the engine starts to run rough or stumble. When you get the stumble ... it's too lean, so then you back it out 1/8 of a turn at a time (both screws) until it idles smooth again. If you have an idle tachometer, hook it up and watch for then the RPMs start to drop off and/or the RPMs start to jump around.

No.

They can be done one at a time, while the engine is in the vehicle.