Eagle

The weight is still around 3200 pounds. I think the distribution is about 60% front/40% rear, so that's 1920 pounds. A 2-ton jack is more than enough. I carry one of these in the back of my Cherokee. I've lifted the entire front or rear axle with it several times. No problems to date. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-compact-trolley-jack-64874.html

That's a good intro to the stroker engines.

Yes, it was an option in all years ... but the name for the option changed from year to year, IIRC. In the 1986 model year, the Metric Ton came with an AMC Model 20 rear axle rather than a Dana 44. There was a gas station in the next town that had a 4-cylinder Comanche with the Metric Ton package that they used as a snow plowing rig.

Back in the day (as the saying goes), the Jeep 4.0L engine was considered to be a low-emission engine. For all the advances they've made in emissions technology in recent years, much of it has been through add-ons and gimmicks. The parent of the 4.0L (and 2.5L) dates back to AMC in 1964. So here's a true story: During the pony car era, I owned a few Javelins and 2-seat AMXs. I was friends with the son of a local AMC dealership, who sort of semi "sponsored" our chapter of the Javelin/AMX Sports car Club. So I spent a lot of time hanging out in their shop. At the time I also owned a 1954 Hudson Hornet. (For those who don't remember, AMC was created by the merger of Hudson and Nash.) Just for grins and giggles, one day I drove the Hudson down to the shop and we decided to hook it up to the emissions testing equipment. The Hudson, of course, had NO emissions equipment whatsoever. My '68 Javelin, on the other hand, had an air pump that shot fresh air at the exhaust manifold to help burn whatever was coming out of the engine that hadn't burned in the cylinders, and it had a throttle delay thingie that didn't allow the throttle plate in the carburetor to close fast, because fast closing caused the engine to run rich for a second or two. The Hudson, which was at the time about 16 years old and had over 100,000 miles on it, tested cleaner than the nearly brand new Javelin, with all the gimmickry. One reason is that all the Hudson engines were long stroke engines. Most (maybe all) V8s are short stroke -- the bore diameter is larger than the stroke. Long stroke engines are inherently more efficient than short stroke engines.

That's not deteriorating plastic. That's burned clearcoat.

It came out looking good, but I'm worried about using steam to clean leather. I would suggest that you immediately go over that leather wrapping with some saddle soap, and then shop for a good leather conditioner to put some life back into the leather before it cracks and splits.

Yes -- that truck is far to solid to be parted out. Remeber, they aren't making MJs any more. Parting out good, solid examples is sacrilege.

The "driveline" is everything between the back of the engine and the rear wheels. I think you mean drive shaft.

Several years ago, shortly after my wife died and I underwent heart surgery, I was in the food court at the local mall on some holiday or other. I think it might have been Veterans Day, and I was wearing my Vietnam Veteran hat. I was feeling sorry for myself, and I guess it must have showed because after a few minutes a little girl started whispering to her parents. Then she got up and came over to me, very shyly, and said, "Don't be sad. Thank you for you service." I just about lost it. Earlier this year, when the COVID-19 pandemic was just hitting its stride and we were sure going to the supermarket would result in instant death, I found in my mailbox a pretty, hand-made card from a little girl who lives a quarter mile up the road from me. We've never met, and I don't know her parents. In fact, I don't even know their last name. I guess she decided the world was going through enough, and she decided to reach out to the neighbors to say hello. I wroter back, and I've sent her a couple of cards since. There are some good people left in this world. Unfortunately, it seems they may be the exception rather than the rule.

We can see that you don't understand but, respectfully, I think you need to understand that it is very frustrating for people who try to help when we answer your questions, and then you start a new thread and ask the same questions again. I don't see anything in your profile about where you live. I am going to guess that English is not your native language, and the language barrier may be part of the problem. Is that correct?

As we told you in one of your previous threads, the AX4 and AX5 are the same except for the fifth gear in the AX5. They are interchangeable. There is no :"adapt" involved with the CPS. The CPS is not part of the transmission. It is part of the ignition and injection system, and it mounts on the bellhousing. To use a later year transmission, you have to keep your '87 flywheel, and keep your '87 CPS. Just remove the CPS from the newer transmission, install the transmission in the vehicle, and install the '87 CPS to the new bellhousing. If you are careful, you could install the '87 CPS onto the '95 bellhousing first, but there is very little clearance between the CPS and the flywheel. One tiny slip as you wrestle the transmission into position and you could destroy the CPS. It's better, as Pete M wrote, to remove the CPS from the bellhousing before you pull the old transmission, and leave it in the vehicle. Install the new transmission, get everything bolted up and squared away, and then reinstall the CPS.

If it's the bolt that stripped, a larger bolt won't fit. If it's the bolt that stripped, you just buy a new bolt of the correct size.

The graphic artists on fiverr.com are geared up to do book covers. From what I can determine after messaging with several of them is that all the low-priced gigs are done by taking a piece of stock art off some web site (such as the one I gave the link to, or there are others that have annual subscriptions for a couple hundred dollars that would be worthwhile for someone doing multiple gigs per day) and slapping some test over it. Bam! Instant book cover. What you need is an illustrator. Suggestion: Are there any colleges or community colleges near you? Students generally need some extra money. You might be able to find an art student who could draw your illustrations all in a consistent style and "hand" for not a lot of money. Try to see if there's a school web page of facebook page that allows you to post ads -- or look up the official school web page, find a page for the art department, and send an e-mail to the department chair asking for references.

Do you have the link to that video? I'd like to check it out.

There are sites with free artwork. Some of them want to sell you "royalty free" images -- which means you pay up front but then you don't pay a royalty for evry book you sell with that image in it. But there are some where the art is in the public domain. A friend just sent me a link to one, hang on ... https://free-images.com/ How many images will you need, and what kind(s) of images? Maybe I can help -- I studied graphic arts before I became an architect. But it wouldn't hurt you to query three or four of the people on fiverr.com. They are mostly in third world countries and they work cheap, but what I've already discovered is that they want to get in and get out. Before you even contact any of them, be sure that you have everything you need to have and to know already locked down. They want to get your specs, do the job, and get paid. I made the mistake of initiating contact before I had everything, and it has been a less than satisfactory experience from my perspective (and probably from theirs, too). Don't expect them to hold your hand -- they don't view it as their job to teach you anything, their job is to create a book cover and get paid.

I'm in the process right now, and I've been e-chatting with two friends who have been through it. I'm probably making it more difficult than it has to be. The easiest way to go is with Amazon KDP, and there are two routes within that. One is to upload your text to their creator (whatever they call it) and let them handle the formatting. The other is to download their format specs (which are different from what their own software creates!) and format the manuscript in Word. One of the two people I'm getting guidance from has done six novels that way, and that's the route I'm following. The other person I'm looking to for advice uses a professional author's program called Scrivener. It's out of my price range, and I don't think it's well suited to my way of working anyway. The guy with the six novels suggested getting a professional for cover art. I just discovered fiverr.com a couple of days ago and I've been messaging back and forth with several people about cover art. They say they need the graphic file for the ISBN barcode on the back cover (if you're doing a print version). Elsewhere, I've read that Amazon KDB will take care of the ISBN and the barcode. I'm confused, but I know that I want to own my own ISBNs, so I just bought a block of ten from R. R. Bowker. (You need at least one for a print edition and one for digital editions -- I'm still not certain of the same ISBN works for both Kindle .MOBI and Nook .EPUB editions. The you have to decide what to charge. I'm still wrestling with that, and I need to decide because you can't make the bar code without the price. (Well, you can -- but it puts a dummy code in there.)

There's only one fuse for the gauges so, if the other gauges work, the fuse is good. So the gauge isn't communicating with the sensor. That could mean a broken wire between the cluster and sensor, or it could mean a bad gauge. You will have to decide which. If you get power at the pigtail, it's probably a bad gauge. But ... why did you ground it with the multimeter? The test is to ground the pigtail directly to the chassis or engine block. Run the test again. Ignition in the RUN position. With the wire disconnected and not touching anything, the gauge should read cold. With the wire grounded, the gauge should swing all the way to the hot end of the scale.

The coolant temp sensor for the gauge is on the left (driiver's side) rear of the head, at the very rear corner of the engine. It has a single pigtail going to it. That's power, from the gauge -- the circuit grounds through the sensor. Step one: With the ignition ON, pull the wire off the sensor and see if you have 12 volts at the wire. Next -- the sensor is a variable resistor. With the ignition ON, when the wire is disconnected from the sensor and not touching anything, the gauge should rear cold. Then ground the wire directly to the engine block or any good ground. The gauge should read all the way to the hot side. If it fails that test, the gauge is bad. If the gauge is good, you probably need a new temperature sensor.

Problem number 1: That thing on the passenger side firewall is NOT an overflow tank. It's an expansion/surge tank, and it's part of the pressurized cooling system. If you spend much time on this site, you're going to see references to the "closed" and "open" cooling system. 'Open" systems have an overflow tank. The Cherokee and Comanche went to an open cooling system in (IIRC) 1991. Your '87 has a closed system -- that bottle on the firewall is supposed to be filled to the halfway level when cold -- no more, no less. You will also encounter references to "burping" the cooling system. The problem is that the expansion tank is higher than the engine. Any air in the system has to be purged to ensure that the system is filled to the proper level. This usually involves starting the engine with the cap (which is a pressure cap) loose. You allow the engine to idle until it heats up enough for coolant to start bubbling out of the expansion tank. Then you immediately shut it down and let it cool off. At some point, after a few minutes you'll see (and maybe hear) that coolant is being sucked out of the bottle into the engine. At that point, you add coolant to ensure that the lines to and from the tank never suck air. Once it cools down and stops sucking coolant -- fill it to the halfway mark and do it again. It usually takes about three cycles to get the air out. If you don't get the system burped, it WILL overheat.

And based on that, the BadDadFab is only a mount, it does not include the bumper. Thanks.

Is that a bumper with an integral winch mount, or is that just a hidden winch kit for use with a factory bumper?

Do you need to save the hub? If not, slice it with a cut-off wheel.

What's the problem? AFAIK an '86 distributor should fit a later engine. What year s the engine, and why doesn't it have a distributor?

You misunderstood. AX-4 or AX-5 refers to the transmission. The AX-4 is a 4-speed, the AX-5 is a 5-speed. They are identical except for the fifth gear. Both of then were available in 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive. The difference is that the 2WD versions have a tailshaft (output) housing that tapers down to allow the front yoke of the driveshaft to slide onto the output shaft. The 4WD transmissions don't have the tailshaft housing, they have a flange that the transfer case bolts to. The transfer case used with the AX-4 and AX-5 transmissions is an NP 231. But the spline count for the transfer case input shaft changed depending on the year and the transmission, so it's important to be certain that the transmission and transfer case work together. That's why it's better to buy them together.

Yes, they did -- but it was not the same transmission they used with the 4.0L. You need an AX-5 transmission and the matching transfer case. The 4.0L engine used a Peugeot BA 10/5 transmission in 1897 and 1988, and an AX-15 after that. Both are larger and use a bellhousing that does not bolt up to the 2.5L engine.