Eagle

1986 was the first model year for the Comanche, but some '86s were built in late 1985. According to Wikipedia, the year with the highest production was 1988. Since Wikipedia lists production numbers for 1985, we can probably assume that the number for 1988 is a mix of vehicles designated as 1988 and 1989 model year.

Just to clarify -- the two speedo senders might not have the same orientation, because the donor vehicle for your "new" tranny might have had different gears or different tires. You want to insert the cable speedo gear quill into your new tranny with the same orientation it is in the original transmission.

It's a straight swap. You unscrew the retainer for the electronic sender, remove the sender, insert the "quill" from the other transmission, and replace the retainer. What you need to watch for is orientation. Clean both the sender and the transmission housing well. You will see some marks on the housing, and an index mark on the quill. It has to be installed with the same orientation. Part #7 is the retainer. It has two ears on the tips of the arms. Part 4 or 7 has four notches that set the orientation, and are engaged by the two ears on the retainer. Just be sure you note the orientation of the cable quill (looks a lot like part #7) on your old transmission, and install it in the new transmission in the same orientation.

Congratulations. Another potential Jeeper ...

Starter relay?

Okay, so that barbed fitting on the filler neck is for the tube to an overflow catch bottle.

2000 and 2001 XJ Classic. My wife's XJ has 16" wheels. Same wheels that were used on the Libby.

It might not be perfect for you. What size tires are you on? My Cherokee is on stock rubber. I think that little jack would be at its limit (height, not weight) if I were on 31" or 32" tires.

What tank did you get? The one I used takes a radiator cap (I used a 13-pound), and it also has a barb fitting for a tube that goes to an overflow (expansion) catch bottle. This makes it functionally an open system rather than closed. Mine's a Moroso, but the Mac's tank specifically for the XJ and MJ didn't exist when I did mine. Here's the link to the Mac's tank: https://macsradiatorshop.com/product/macs-1987-1990-jeep-cherokee-aluminum-coolant-tank/ See the smaller fitting that's ON the filler neck? A radiator with a filler neck has the same thing. That's for the hose to the overflow catch tank.

The weight is still around 3200 pounds. I think the distribution is about 60% front/40% rear, so that's 1920 pounds. A 2-ton jack is more than enough. I carry one of these in the back of my Cherokee. I've lifted the entire front or rear axle with it several times. No problems to date. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-compact-trolley-jack-64874.html

That's a good intro to the stroker engines.

Yes, it was an option in all years ... but the name for the option changed from year to year, IIRC. In the 1986 model year, the Metric Ton came with an AMC Model 20 rear axle rather than a Dana 44. There was a gas station in the next town that had a 4-cylinder Comanche with the Metric Ton package that they used as a snow plowing rig.

Back in the day (as the saying goes), the Jeep 4.0L engine was considered to be a low-emission engine. For all the advances they've made in emissions technology in recent years, much of it has been through add-ons and gimmicks. The parent of the 4.0L (and 2.5L) dates back to AMC in 1964. So here's a true story: During the pony car era, I owned a few Javelins and 2-seat AMXs. I was friends with the son of a local AMC dealership, who sort of semi "sponsored" our chapter of the Javelin/AMX Sports car Club. So I spent a lot of time hanging out in their shop. At the time I also owned a 1954 Hudson Hornet. (For those who don't remember, AMC was created by the merger of Hudson and Nash.) Just for grins and giggles, one day I drove the Hudson down to the shop and we decided to hook it up to the emissions testing equipment. The Hudson, of course, had NO emissions equipment whatsoever. My '68 Javelin, on the other hand, had an air pump that shot fresh air at the exhaust manifold to help burn whatever was coming out of the engine that hadn't burned in the cylinders, and it had a throttle delay thingie that didn't allow the throttle plate in the carburetor to close fast, because fast closing caused the engine to run rich for a second or two. The Hudson, which was at the time about 16 years old and had over 100,000 miles on it, tested cleaner than the nearly brand new Javelin, with all the gimmickry. One reason is that all the Hudson engines were long stroke engines. Most (maybe all) V8s are short stroke -- the bore diameter is larger than the stroke. Long stroke engines are inherently more efficient than short stroke engines.

That's not deteriorating plastic. That's burned clearcoat.

It came out looking good, but I'm worried about using steam to clean leather. I would suggest that you immediately go over that leather wrapping with some saddle soap, and then shop for a good leather conditioner to put some life back into the leather before it cracks and splits.

Yes -- that truck is far to solid to be parted out. Remeber, they aren't making MJs any more. Parting out good, solid examples is sacrilege.

The "driveline" is everything between the back of the engine and the rear wheels. I think you mean drive shaft.

Several years ago, shortly after my wife died and I underwent heart surgery, I was in the food court at the local mall on some holiday or other. I think it might have been Veterans Day, and I was wearing my Vietnam Veteran hat. I was feeling sorry for myself, and I guess it must have showed because after a few minutes a little girl started whispering to her parents. Then she got up and came over to me, very shyly, and said, "Don't be sad. Thank you for you service." I just about lost it. Earlier this year, when the COVID-19 pandemic was just hitting its stride and we were sure going to the supermarket would result in instant death, I found in my mailbox a pretty, hand-made card from a little girl who lives a quarter mile up the road from me. We've never met, and I don't know her parents. In fact, I don't even know their last name. I guess she decided the world was going through enough, and she decided to reach out to the neighbors to say hello. I wroter back, and I've sent her a couple of cards since. There are some good people left in this world. Unfortunately, it seems they may be the exception rather than the rule.

We can see that you don't understand but, respectfully, I think you need to understand that it is very frustrating for people who try to help when we answer your questions, and then you start a new thread and ask the same questions again. I don't see anything in your profile about where you live. I am going to guess that English is not your native language, and the language barrier may be part of the problem. Is that correct?

As we told you in one of your previous threads, the AX4 and AX5 are the same except for the fifth gear in the AX5. They are interchangeable. There is no :"adapt" involved with the CPS. The CPS is not part of the transmission. It is part of the ignition and injection system, and it mounts on the bellhousing. To use a later year transmission, you have to keep your '87 flywheel, and keep your '87 CPS. Just remove the CPS from the newer transmission, install the transmission in the vehicle, and install the '87 CPS to the new bellhousing. If you are careful, you could install the '87 CPS onto the '95 bellhousing first, but there is very little clearance between the CPS and the flywheel. One tiny slip as you wrestle the transmission into position and you could destroy the CPS. It's better, as Pete M wrote, to remove the CPS from the bellhousing before you pull the old transmission, and leave it in the vehicle. Install the new transmission, get everything bolted up and squared away, and then reinstall the CPS.

If it's the bolt that stripped, a larger bolt won't fit. If it's the bolt that stripped, you just buy a new bolt of the correct size.

The graphic artists on fiverr.com are geared up to do book covers. From what I can determine after messaging with several of them is that all the low-priced gigs are done by taking a piece of stock art off some web site (such as the one I gave the link to, or there are others that have annual subscriptions for a couple hundred dollars that would be worthwhile for someone doing multiple gigs per day) and slapping some test over it. Bam! Instant book cover. What you need is an illustrator. Suggestion: Are there any colleges or community colleges near you? Students generally need some extra money. You might be able to find an art student who could draw your illustrations all in a consistent style and "hand" for not a lot of money. Try to see if there's a school web page of facebook page that allows you to post ads -- or look up the official school web page, find a page for the art department, and send an e-mail to the department chair asking for references.

Do you have the link to that video? I'd like to check it out.

There are sites with free artwork. Some of them want to sell you "royalty free" images -- which means you pay up front but then you don't pay a royalty for evry book you sell with that image in it. But there are some where the art is in the public domain. A friend just sent me a link to one, hang on ... https://free-images.com/ How many images will you need, and what kind(s) of images? Maybe I can help -- I studied graphic arts before I became an architect. But it wouldn't hurt you to query three or four of the people on fiverr.com. They are mostly in third world countries and they work cheap, but what I've already discovered is that they want to get in and get out. Before you even contact any of them, be sure that you have everything you need to have and to know already locked down. They want to get your specs, do the job, and get paid. I made the mistake of initiating contact before I had everything, and it has been a less than satisfactory experience from my perspective (and probably from theirs, too). Don't expect them to hold your hand -- they don't view it as their job to teach you anything, their job is to create a book cover and get paid.

I'm in the process right now, and I've been e-chatting with two friends who have been through it. I'm probably making it more difficult than it has to be. The easiest way to go is with Amazon KDP, and there are two routes within that. One is to upload your text to their creator (whatever they call it) and let them handle the formatting. The other is to download their format specs (which are different from what their own software creates!) and format the manuscript in Word. One of the two people I'm getting guidance from has done six novels that way, and that's the route I'm following. The other person I'm looking to for advice uses a professional author's program called Scrivener. It's out of my price range, and I don't think it's well suited to my way of working anyway. The guy with the six novels suggested getting a professional for cover art. I just discovered fiverr.com a couple of days ago and I've been messaging back and forth with several people about cover art. They say they need the graphic file for the ISBN barcode on the back cover (if you're doing a print version). Elsewhere, I've read that Amazon KDB will take care of the ISBN and the barcode. I'm confused, but I know that I want to own my own ISBNs, so I just bought a block of ten from R. R. Bowker. (You need at least one for a print edition and one for digital editions -- I'm still not certain of the same ISBN works for both Kindle .MOBI and Nook .EPUB editions. The you have to decide what to charge. I'm still wrestling with that, and I need to decide because you can't make the bar code without the price. (Well, you can -- but it puts a dummy code in there.)